Stock motor stuck on input shaft

NewtoBuggies

I have a 92 36volt CC DS. its a project my son and i have been piddling with for a couple years off and on. we decided to upgrade the motor after the old batteries went kuput and why not it had the factory motor still in it and it was kind of a slug and of course the more we improve our toy, the more we want to do to it..

ok ok ... the question is , when i tried to get the motor off, well its stuck to the imput shaft of the rearend. I tried everything from brute force to spray on rust breakers to heating it with my torch. No luck. What would the BGW folk do in this situation?

I am considering junking the whole rearend and replacing it with a new one and new motor, or using my bandsaw to cut the imput shaft and replace that and add a new motor. I am also looking at the most cost effective way to do this and not too worried on time frame. I do have another motor and rearend that may or may not be available to me. Any advice or suggestions guys?

BGW

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CRK

1) Have you paid for the new motor yet?

If not keep the stock 36v and upgrade the electronics to 48v. That little slug 36v motor will turn into a jack rabbit once you throw 48v to it.

Doing so is a common upgrade many here on BGW run that combo.

NewtoBuggies

well thats the issue. The 36 volt motor cover is off and i cant re-assemble it with it on the shaft, because i cant get the brishes back on the end of the armature (i thinbk that right) in this position. When i first thought it was stuck, i became frustrated and i took out the other three (housing bolts) bolts on the end of the motor before i actually though about it to realize what their purpose was, and whoosh off came the cover and now im at the point i either need to junk what i have and start over or do some serious changing to what i have after cutting the input shaft and replacing it. serious lesson learned. but hey thats what aproject is all about. I may be a novice when i get done with it lol..

NewtoBuggies

sorry about that rambling .. all thats left on the input shaft is the motor shaft witht he windings.

CRK

Ok then plan D

Lots of heat and a BFH!

93yellowclubcar

Heat on the shaft, OK. BFH - NOT IF THE ARMATURE ISNT ALREADY DAMAGED!!!

Here a while back I found the best way to fix this problem thanks to TahoeDawg. It just involves a little work.

First, remove the rear end from the cart.
Second, take off the wheels and tires and start the lug nuts back on the passenger side studs a few threads.
Third, stand the rear end up on the passenger side, the armature should be hanging down - apply either heat or mass quantities of PB Blaster (or both if youre careful) to the shaft where the armature meets it.
Fourth, pick it up about a foot and let it slam down (if you threaded the lug nuts on a few threads this will protect them from being damaged as they are making contact with the ground) - after a few blows the armature should fall off. (Keep trying if not, it took me a little bit) Have something soft or someone ready to catch it.

This method worked for me on a 93, and I was able to salvage the motor and put it back together and it runs. I have full intentions of using it in a 48 volt swap.

NewtoBuggies

Thanks 93yellowcc. I did use blaster with it in that position and my torch. I was afraid of heating it too much. I concocted a support base to try and pry it off (downward force) with out damaging the rear end housing (not much room in there to take full swing) but dropping as described sounds like it might work.

NewtoBuggies

I also am using a brass dowel as a strike point

NewtoBuggies

Ok after letting it sit for 24 hrs with more PB Blaster in the up on its side position with the motor essentially hanging down, I put the torch on it. I bounced it on the end lugs with the lug nuts partially screwed on to avoid damage to the lugs. Still no luck getting this motor off the input shaft. note: I did repeat this process several times with no sign of movement. I marked the edge of the motor shaft on the input shaft using a sawzall to just score the input shaft to get a visual starting point. No movement. So now I am back to the original question - do I cut the input shaft off and replace it after tearing into the rearend or simply scrap what I have and obtain a different rearend and new to me motor?

Stevegrmich

. . . when applying the heat, keep it away from the armature shaft as much as possible . . you want to expand the input shaft, without expanding the output shaft of the armature . . . once both input and output shaft get hot, you have to wait for both to cool all the way down and start again . . . it is a fine line between too little and too much heat to free these parts . . .