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Unread 11-14-2013, 01:14 AM   #11
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Default Re: Club Car Battery Tray Repair

Frame is aluminum. Use aluminum. Period.
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Unread 11-14-2013, 06:55 AM   #12
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Default Re: Club Car Battery Tray Repair

Isn't there some sort of electrolysis likely to occur if steel and aluminum are paired together, particularly in a salt air (and water) environment?

Once I heard of a fella who used his 16' jon boat as a negative ground for his lights. The negative pole of the battery was hooked directly to the boat as were all his lights. That boat turned to dust as the cancer of the aluminum spread. He saved on time and $'s of hooking wires up.
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Unread 11-14-2013, 10:08 AM   #13
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Default Re: Club Car Battery Tray Repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by RPatten View Post
Isn't there some sort of electrolysis likely to occur if steel and aluminum are paired together, particularly in a salt air (and water) environment?

Once I heard of a fella who used his 16' jon boat as a negative ground for his lights. The negative pole of the battery was hooked directly to the boat as were all his lights. That boat turned to dust as the cancer of the aluminum spread. He saved on time and $'s of hooking wires up.
I think you are right on this...
Also a reason why electric carts should never be grounded to the frame!
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Unread 11-14-2013, 10:28 AM   #14
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Default Re: Club Car Battery Tray Repair

Must have to do with boat being in water. Airplanes use airframe ground. Always isolate grounds for audio, or radios.
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Unread 11-14-2013, 10:49 AM   #15
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Default Re: Club Car Battery Tray Repair

Water, specially seawater will definitely accelerate the galvanic corrosion.
The link below has a list of metals and alloys and which ones will corrode first when in contact with each other and submerged in seawater.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series
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Unread 11-14-2013, 06:43 PM   #16
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Default Re: Club Car Battery Tray Repair

On our jons, we always use stainless steel when we put a screw in and we avoid any of the galvanic corrosion that Sergio mentioned. But he mentions that some are passive and some are active. I buy marine screws. Maybe that is why nothing has screwed up just yet. So, I will use marine screws on my cart.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 11:58 PM   #17
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I'm in the same boat with a 96 club car. Picked up the angle aluminum, but am unsure about riveting. Will one on each side hold it?

Also, are you using aluminum rivets? Thought I saw a thread about using dis-similar metals against each other could be a problem. Is there a particular type of rivet I should use? Thanks for any help.

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Unread 11-17-2013, 12:58 AM   #18
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Default Re: Club Car Battery Tray Repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fieldman View Post
I'm in the same boat with a 96 club car. Picked up the angle aluminum, but am unsure about riveting. Will one on each side hold it?

Also, are you using aluminum rivets? Thought I saw a thread about using dis-similar metals against each other could be a problem. Is there a particular type of rivet I should use? Thanks for any help.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk 4
Welcome to BGW Fieldman!
Yes, use aluminum rivets. I would think one or two rivets per connection should be fine, as the batteries just rest on the brackets and don't move side to side...
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Unread 11-17-2013, 08:39 AM   #19
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Default Re: Club Car Battery Tray Repair

aluminum is pretty easy to weld, although most people must not have a spool gun for their wire fed welder,(or maybe not even have a wire fed) probly why the rivet/bolt method is most common for the average DIY

you could also pre cut the pieces and then take the cart somewhere to have the tray welded back in place for under $100.00
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Unread 11-17-2013, 02:38 PM   #20
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Thanks for the welcome and replies. Looks like an nice forum here. A friend has a spool gun but warns me that he is no good at welding aluminum. I would like to have it welded but looking at this forum a but seems alot of folks do rivets so I was considering it. I plan on tearing it down in the next few weeks.

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