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Unread 10-01-2008, 12:18 AM   #11
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Default Re: 36V Motor Vs. 48V Motor??

Any pointers on taking apart the motor? When i open the end cap, the brush holder was broken on one side and it will need to be replaced, but i can't seem to remove the end cap. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Unread 10-01-2008, 12:29 AM   #12
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Default Re: 36V Motor Vs. 48V Motor??

Those 36v motors will take that much voltage without a melt down? Somebody else said 120volts? How long do the motors last at that voltage

Quote:
Originally Posted by gornoman View Post
There's nothing like it!

Well, except for 60v to a 36v motor, or even 72v to a 36v motor. But I wouldn't go any farther than 72v. Who needs to go that fast anyway!
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Unread 10-01-2008, 12:31 AM   #13
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Default Re: 36V Motor Vs. 48V Motor??

/me thinks Nate knows a little something about those things too gornoman! lol

If I could get away with buying a bunch of new batteries, and upgrading to 72v, I'd be tempted, but then I'd definitely want to upgrade to a REAL controller.

A.D. like scottyb said, it may be somewhat of a good thing if it's full of mud, etc.. I would disassemble, and hose it out really well with fresh water, and then if it were ME I'd also use electrical contact cleaner spray, or flux remover spray, and spray it down as much as possible to clean any salt residue, blast it out with compressed air (not too high pressure though) to dry it, then set it aside to dry for another day or two, then reassemble and test it.

Drain and flush the rear end, and fill with fresh fluids as well, and wash/clean all your other parts as well, anything electronic you should wash and dry, and might need to use contact cleaner or give it a light scrub with a scotchbrite pad or some fine sandpaper to clean all the contacts. Hopefully you have a controller cart and the controller is still well sealed. Hose off EVERYTHING as best you can to stop corrosion from any salt water.

Might get real lucky.

I'm seeing a large # of carts popping up on eBay from various parts of Texas, so I have a feeling a LOT of "ike" carts are going to be sold to unwitting buyers. Hopefully sellers are honest about it, or have already cleaned and serviced them! If I had loads of money, I'd have gone out and tried to pick up a bunch of those ravaged carts to try and rebuild and profit from them. :)

Good Luck with yours, and keep us posted.
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Unread 10-01-2008, 01:05 AM   #14
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Default Re: 36V Motor Vs. 48V Motor??

Quote:
Originally Posted by SP-Electronics View Post
set it aside to dry for another day or two, then reassemble and test it.
This is the key, don't test the motor with any water in it, water can hide out of sight. Take SP's advice and give it two days, less time than it takes to ship another motor.


Tin can motors can't handle more than 48 volts, most motors can handle 72 volts but some of the old motors (30+ years) can handle 96 volts, when they get hit with 120V they run great but that was the point at which I started to notice a little excessive heat build up. Most aftermarket quality motors can handle 96 to 108 volts but be careful not to over rev. I have hit some of the better GE motors with 120V for short bursts and they did fine. The 168 volt motor was a special wind I did myself, it worked and ran cool!
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Unread 10-03-2008, 03:21 AM   #15
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Default Re: 36V Motor Vs. 48V Motor??

I picked up a few Ike victims, 5x club cars, 1999 and up, one real nice work horse, two early 2000 ezgo's and a pretty cool cushman truckster to be exact. They definately weren't free though, I paid 500 each. I just put a 700amp controller, d380, new mcor and a new 48 volt pack of trojans with my custom "super #1 awg dc power cables" in an 01 this evening. The cart is very clean with stock wheels and no lift. What do you guys would bea fair asking price for something like this? I did change the rearend fluid to synthetic gear oil and repacked all the bearings and installed new tie rods and bushings while I was at it. Frame is also polished with new battery tray.
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Unread 10-03-2008, 07:04 AM   #16
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Default Re: 36V Motor Vs. 48V Motor??

That sure depends on where you are? How your local economy is doing? And things like that. Considering the batteries are new, I say just under $2000 for that cart. $1500 sure sale.
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Unread 10-03-2008, 08:39 AM   #17
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Default Re: 36V Motor Vs. 48V Motor??

With a brand new d380 "Bad Boy", brand new 700 amp controller, brand new trojan 8 volts, brand new charger and the list goes on? I'm thinking more along the lines of 3500... for a sweet 27 mile an hour cart that is built better than new, oh yea a brand new kilovac solenoid also.
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Unread 10-03-2008, 09:15 AM   #18
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Default Re: 36V Motor Vs. 48V Motor??

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwayaustx View Post
With a brand new d380 "Bad Boy", brand new 700 amp controller, brand new trojan 8 volts, brand new charger and the list goes on? I'm thinking more along the lines of 3500... for a sweet 27 mile an hour cart that is built better than new, oh yea a brand new kilovac solenoid also.
OH, Seems like I forgot to consider a few items there.....You are right it would price much higher ......But it wouldn't sell here very well. Craigs is loaded with high priced carts due to the down economy and they are not moving. What is selling is the $1500 get in it and go cart.
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Unread 10-03-2008, 09:27 AM   #19
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Default Re: 36V Motor Vs. 48V Motor??

That is pretty much the deal here also, everyone thinks that a lifted cart for 3,500 is such a great deal because it looks good, noone considers the abuse the cart has had or the stock parts being strained because of the running gear. I haven't decided to sell it yet, need to get my bad dude finished first. I'm building a 72 volt, with 28 inch dot swamplites on 14 inch wheels, d and d motor with 80 ft lbs @ 48 volts which is the motor I have on the buggy I just finished sold. That motor is a torque monster, rated 18 ftlbs more than a stock 660 grizzly.
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