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Unread 12-19-2013, 10:49 PM   #21
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Default Re: 1997 carryall 48 volt wont run...HELP

What batteries you have should be Ok to test with. Just make sure they are charged as best as they can be. Make sure to follow the sequence and finish all the steps listed in the tests! It will take time, but you don't want to buy stuff you don't need! One item that will be beneficial no matter what you're going to do with the cart is a new 4ga cable set. This will allow you to upgrade components later on + it will usually help a stock cart to perform a little bit better.
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Unread 12-20-2013, 09:46 AM   #22
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Default Re: 1997 carryall 48 volt wont run...HELP

What is pot box? I'm at work I can check tonight when I get home
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Unread 12-20-2013, 10:18 AM   #23
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Default Re: 1997 carryall 48 volt wont run...HELP

It is the throttle potentiometer that is connected to your accelerator pedal. It provides a varying resistance to the controller for speed control. As Scott said, it may have been damaged by the stick caught under the cart. I'd carefully check any wiring underneath for damage as well.
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Unread 12-21-2013, 04:33 PM   #24
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Default Re: 1997 carryall 48 volt wont run...HELP

OK I tested the ohms on box and I'm getting 0.00 at rest and around 6.8 ohms at full throttle. Its a purple and yellow wire? Is this correct?
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Unread 12-21-2013, 08:11 PM   #25
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Default Re: 1997 carryall 48 volt wont run...HELP

That pot box sounds like its OK. Have you inspected the wiring connections on the FNR lever and are all the connections on the FNR clean and the lever operating smoothly? Does the buzzer go off when you are in R? You *do* have a lever and not a small rocker switch for FNR, right?

Even though its clicking, that doesn't always mean its working properly - you should elevate the rear wheels, put a big wire jumper across the two big posts of the solenoid and push the accelerator to see if the wheels spin (key on and in the run position of course).

After the above tests, with the key OFF and in TOW (and the negative battery connection removed) look around and clean and tighten any potential bad connections throughout the wiring harness (wire brush and refit the battery posts and connectors and also clean and refit the large post connectors on the solenoid). I also use isopropyl alcohol in a small spray bottle to spray the pins and insides of any push-on spade or plug connectors which are on the various smaller wires) then push them back together while the alcohol is still a bit wet (including the plugs/pins that attach to the controller) -a bit of alcohol and refitting the small connectors seems to ensure good metal to metal contact in tight places. Then wait a half hour before reconnecting the main negative and turning the cart back on (just to be safe - not sure if alcohol is a good conductor or not, but it won't stay wet for a half hour). Make sure the large cables on the motor are snug, but don't remove them. Its best to use two wrenches for that - you want to avoid spinning the motor connector posts at all costs, or you'll damage the internal motor connections!

If you get done with all this, you'll be heading on to testing the controller - you'll have to figure out which model controller you have and hopefully see if you can find the appropriate test measurements for it by searching this site.

I'll gurantee you my controller is not like yours - so if you finish the tasks above - and the cart is still not moving - the balls in your court to find test procedures for your particular controller.
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Unread 01-12-2014, 04:58 PM   #26
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Default Re: 1997 carryall 48 volt wont run...HELP

i havent had much time to mess with this thong the past month but i did today, i did a test scotty b posted on anothers post . checked voltage at b- and m- it was 48.8 and when i pushed the pedal down it barely dropped to 48.2.I think its suppose to drop down to zero isnt it?
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