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Unread 12-27-2013, 11:13 PM   #1
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Default Dead Club Car

I have a 2000 36V Club Car which set up for about a year. It ran fine before this period. I replaced the batteries and I can not get the cart to move. When I press the gas pedal I can hear a click, but I believe this to be the gas pedals connection with the potentiometer. I checked the both sides of the solenoid and there is no power on either side. The forward reverse switch is hot on both leads coming into the bottom but nothing else. Any ideas, test I can perform to narrow down the problem???? I am very green so I will probably need a lot of details.
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Unread 12-28-2013, 09:03 AM   #2
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Default Re: Dead Club Car

'00 36v CC is a resistor coil drive system. Check with the seat off to verify if the solenoid is clicking. It requires + and - present at the 2 small posts to click (energize it) it then connects the battery pack to the drive system.
No solenoid click? = check the F&R micro switch and the V-glide micro switch (MS)

If solenoid is clicking and passing + power through the large cables then the F&R may be bad.
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Unread 12-28-2013, 09:27 AM   #3
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Default Re: Dead Club Car

How do I check the micro switches?
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Unread 12-28-2013, 09:09 PM   #4
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Default Re: Dead Club Car

The solenoid is not clicking. I tested the solenoid and it appears to be operable. Now what????
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Unread 12-29-2013, 08:44 PM   #5
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Default Re: Dead Club Car

Check the V-Glide (pie shaped box on frame rail between batteries under seat) for clean contacts, no loose wires, or melted wiper arms. I suggest this because my 90 DS wouldn't move but I had a good battery pack and a operable solenoid. Turned out as one of the wires attached to the microswitch came off and the cart would not move. Attached is a diagram of how the V-Glide should look.
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File Type: jpg c1_accel_system.jpg (68.5 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 12-29-2013, 11:04 PM   #6
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Default Re: Dead Club Car

I will dissect the V-Glide tomorrow. While fooling around with the cart today I decided to hook up a jumper wire between the two large terminal post on the solenoid to see if the cart would actually run. It did. Does this eliminate the possibility of anything or narrow down where my problem might be coming from? Again, I very green to working on electric golf carts so bare with me......
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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:43 AM   #7
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Default Re: Dead Club Car

Quote:
Originally Posted by lbcurtis View Post
The solenoid is not clicking. I tested the solenoid and it appears to be operable. Now what????
How did you test the solenoid? If you jumped it, that most likely means it is bad. But, I would like to know how you went about testing it so I can give a correct "hypothesis" about what's wrong.
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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:52 AM   #8
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Default Re: Dead Club Car

Quote:
Originally Posted by CCFanatic View Post
How did you test the solenoid? If you jumped it, that most likely means it is bad. But, I would like to know how you went about testing it so I can give a correct "hypothesis" about what's wrong.
No - not always true, bypassing the solenoid by connecting the 2 large cable posts simply bypasses the solenoid - it does not test it.

If the solenoid does not click - it may be bad.
How to test a solenoid:
Apply negative battery pack voltage (36v) to one of the small posts.
Apply positive battery pack voltage to the second small post.
The solenoid should make a click sound. This sound is the contact being drawn up to connect the two large posts together. The two large posts should now test for continuity.
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Unread 12-30-2013, 10:52 AM   #9
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Default Re: Dead Club Car

Ok, so I think I am getting somewhere. I took the cover off of the V-Glide and found that the large wire which moves as you push the pedal was bare and making contact with a screw. Also cleaned the contacts and it is back up and running. Can I use electrical tape on the bare wire or does it need to be replaced?
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Unread 12-30-2013, 11:22 AM   #10
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Default Re: Dead Club Car

Could you post a pic of your V-Glide to see how bad this wire is?
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