Reversed, forward and dead

MDLNB

1997 CC DS series motor. Yesterday, I backed the cart out of the garage and put it in forward before coming to a complete stop. I may have had my foot depressing the accelerator pedal at the time. The cart stopped with a sort of small "clunk" sound and then the battery gauge went all the way to the bottom as I tried to get the cart to move. It seemed like there was a very slight, minute movement and noise but that's it. The reverse buzzer works, and the battery needle goes to the bottom when I push down on the pedal, but the cart won't move. Any ideas what it might be? I was able to easily push the cart back into the garage, so the axle is not frozen. There was no smell of burning. I get the feeling that it is something in the actual motor/axle area and not the other electronics. It seems to me that the battery meter showing a high amperage reading as I pushed on the pedal would indicate some major resistance. I would appreciate some input before I give up and call a repair service. At least I would like to get an idea of how much this is going to cost me, by knowing what the afflictions could possibly be. And I am not referring to the nut behind the wheel that carelessly put it in forward before coming to a stop.

I have a D377 electric motor (48 volt system) with a 400 amp Curtis controller. In case that makes any difference.

BGW

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Volt_Ampere

You have a bad connection in your batteries or a bad battery that isn't allowing much current flow. The pack voltage is going to zero when the controller tries to power your cart.

MDLNB

I'll check that out. It's been a while since I performed any battery maintenance. I hope that it's as simple as that. Thanks.

scottyb

Never shift from forward to reverse without letting the gas pedal all the way up. Always stop before changing direction. Failing to do so will damage the drive components.

MDLNB

Yes, NORMALLY I am paying attention to things like that. I was distracted and in a hurry and didn't even realize that I had done that. Hopefully, this reminder is not costly. I still have to find a minute to check out the batteries. They are dated 2010, and had been neglected by the previous owner. I am usually right on the ball as far as maintenance, but since my knee replacement operation, I have let a few things slide. Guess sometimes some of us learn by making costly mistakes.

MDLNB

Batteries seem to check ok, considering their age. One terminal had some acid build up, so I cleaned it and made sure that I secured it tight. The battery water was all well over the plates and the charge was holding fine.

I put it in reverse and it buzzed. I pressed the accelerator pedal and the rear started shaking but it didn't move(kind of jerking). Could it have jumped a gear or something? It appeared like the motor was attempting to turn but something was stopping it. Is there some sort of "king pin" or something that could have broken?

I'm just trying to get as much information as I can before resorting to sending it off to the shop for repair. The budget is kind of tight still -- after the holidays. My wife has her own golf cart so it's not an emergency. I have my Harley and the car if I really need to go anywhere. I usually use the golf cart in the mornings, when the weather is good to get out and get some fresh air.

Thanks for your assistance. This really is a great forum.

mrgolf

Sounds like what mine was doing when the controller went out.

MDLNB

I checked my batteries with one of those little mini-dropper type testers and found one bad cell in one battery. The rest of the batteries (over four years old) tested OK. The local repair shop came out and picked up the cart, later calling me and telling me that I had one bad battery that was shorting out when I pushed the accelerator. They said they tested out the relay and it was OK. I am replacing all the batteries, expecting this to resolve the issue. I have only had this old cart for a year and it had been pretty much abused prior to my obtaining it. The batteries had been left for long periods of time without charging, and I was told that they had boiled over many times when they were charged. I am surprised that they lasted this long. I had been maintaining them consistently in the past year that I have had the cart, and they have performed pretty well. I am looking forward to seeing how well the cart performs with the new batteries. It's a shame that I need to replace the batteries on this old cart, but it's such a simple cart, and runs so well normally. I like it better than my wife's newer Yamaha Regen type cart. Her's is pretty, but mine is faster and rugged.

scottyb

Thanks for letting us know - shuddering is almost always an indication of a bad battery or connection. Remember to follow battery break-in procedure to get the most out of your new pack.


Carts Unlimited battery break-in method

MDLNB

Thanks ScottyB, and thanks for the link too. The cart was just delivered to me a few minutes ago. I had him check my brakes also and he said I still have another year or so on them. Price for new Trojan T875's was $107 each. That seems like a reasonable price to me. But, these are the first batteries I have had to replace. My wife's batteries are also four years old, but seem to be doing quite well....so far. I check the water level every couple weeks, and keep them charged up and clean. I think the cart I bought for her was better maintained by the original owners. Even if the cart looks like it was hardly used.

I have analogue battery meters on our carts but I can see that I am going to have to go digital. My meter showed a full charge, even with a bad battery. It wasn't until I pressed down on the pedal did it drop immediately down to the bottom of the meter and did not go all the way back to full. I bet a digital meter would give me better warning of a battery problem.