Motor vs.rear end vs. brakes

Big Jack

I had so much fun getting in over my head on my 1st cart project, I picked up another one for more fun...

'04 CC DS 48v series basic stock set was "yard art" for at least a season. I got it as is, w/o history, all electronics intact minus the batteries, and with unmovable rear wheels. I've got new batteries in, can hear the solenoid , still no wheel rotation. My next steps will be:
1: pull the rear wheels to check brake clearance & unfreeze by hand. If fail, then:
2. Check cable connections at motor for tight, rust, grime. If fail, then:
3. Check fluid in diff., fill as needed. If fail then:
4. Pull motor & conduct 12v jumper test as outlined in another thread. If fail, then consider strong beverage & how cart will look as yard art for me???

Is that a logical sequence and what say y'all? (That's plural you down here...)

BGW

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jakesnake27

I would start by testing the motor:
Do you have any pics of the cart?

scotter

Y'all is singular.
All Y'all is plural!

Big Jack

Jake, would you advise pulling the motor for the test or just disconnecting the lines to the pack? My concern is a false failure if the motor is good but brakes binding or a bad differential...
Scotter, where I am, all y'all is reserved for formal discussions & political campaigns only... Y'all is much more casual & friendly...

jakesnake27

Where does 'Yens' come in?
I've heard that one a few times...

jakesnake27

Can you push the cart easily when it is in neutral? If yes, then go ahead and test the motor as it is now. If you can't push it, check the brakes or differential and don't test the motor until you can easily push the cart in neutral

CartTrader

More than likely the brakes are frozen. Have had it happen a few times. Disconnect batteries. hook up a tow rope or chain and start pulling it ... if it has one, put run/tow switch in tow. May take a couple hundred feet to break it loose but it will break loose. Oh best to have someone in cart steering too! Sometimes bouncing in cart while towing will help.

CartTrader

jakesnake27

CartTrader's method works well, just do it on a public street so you don't leave marks on your drive way...

Big Jack

Problem solved:
I pulled both rear wheels & was able to hand-rotate each in both directions, albeit with significant resistance. So, in pulling the drums, I found the drive wheel side to be bound to the pads. Not having a pulling tool, I used my pounding tool instead, & after a few solid hammer strikes to the outside of the drum, it loosened enough to rotate freely. While it was still on the jacks, it responded immediately. I remounted the tires & successfully test-drove my next project.
Decision time; How to modify a hunting/farm buggy that also would see some neighborhood use?
For my '97 DS, I REALLY like the power/speed combo that I got from ECC (site sponsor) in the D&D torque/speed motor with the Alltrax 6500 controller. I think I will duplicate that on this project, but I'm thinking also about adding the locking diff that silver advertises on their banner link. I spend enough time in slop to justify this as a need. Has anyone had experience with them and their products?

screamin Eagle

The plural for Y,all is All Y'all.