Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v?

hannon70 · 04-07-2014, 09:05 AM

I have a 2000 Club Car DS 48v. I pulled my boat with it last week and now it goes a lot slower and then looses power quickly with batteries tested at full charge. (New batteries, all cables clean and good throughout.) I have have a plumb quick motor on it for 7 years with no problems. Does it sound like the controller? If so, are they hard to fix yourself (I can solder).

TahoeDawgZ71 · 04-07-2014, 09:16 AM

Series or RegenII (SepEx)?

hannon70 · 04-07-2014, 09:18 AM

It's Series.

hannon70 · 04-07-2014, 09:19 AM

Sorry, didn't see your diagram.

TahoeDawgZ71 · 04-07-2014, 09:38 AM

Get your multimeter out and set it to DC200V

Check controller input voltage. Red lead on B+ Post of controller, Black lead on B- post of controller. With vehicle lifted into the air and tires off of the ground depress accel pedal. Car will begin to run. You should see full battery voltage on the multimeter as soon as the solenoid clicks. If you don't, let me know. You're not getting full power to your controller and we will figure out why. If you see full voltage, move on...

Check controller output. Remove the #6 gauge white wire from the A2 post of the motor and secure it so that it cannot make contact with any live components or connections.. Put red lead on B+ post of controller. Black lead on M- post of controller. Gradually increase throttle. At full throttle you should see full battery voltage of car. If you do, your controller is working fine. If you don't, move on...

Check throttle signal to controller. Locate the small wires plugged into the blade terminals of the controller. Un-plug the Green and Yellow wires. Insert probes of the multimeter into the ends of these wires. Polarity is not important. Set multimeter to 20K ohms. With F&R lever in Forward gradually increase throttle. You should see approximately 5000 ohms at zero throttle and 0 ohms at full throttle. Post results.

hannon70 · 04-07-2014, 10:23 AM

Thanks! I'll try it tonight & post results.

caokgafamily · 04-07-2014, 02:22 PM

Hannon70, how big is your boat? Last month I pulled out my backyard an arial towable basket man lift with my cart. I was crazy but my truck kept getting stuck. I was amazed my cart pulled it out. I haven't had any problems with my cart since then. But my cart is not stock.
Steve

hannon70 · 04-07-2014, 02:57 PM

It's a 19' bass boat. I think since the golf cart has high-speed motor and larger wheels, it could have strained the controller.

hannon70 · 04-07-2014, 06:48 PM

Check controller input voltage. Red lead on B+ Post of controller, Black lead on B- post of controller. With vehicle lifted into the air and tires off of the ground depress accel pedal. Car will begin to run. You should see full battery voltage on the multimeter as soon as the solenoid clicks. If you don't, let me know. You're not getting full power to your controller and we will figure out why. If you see full voltage, move on...
***50v across batteries, 48v before accellorator is pressed, 48v after solenoid clicks to full throttle.

Check controller output. Remove the #6 gauge white wire from the A2 post of the motor and secure it so that it cannot make contact with any live components or connections.. Put red lead on B+ post of controller. Black lead on M- post of controller. Gradually increase throttle. At full throttle you should see full battery voltage of car. If you do, your controller is working fine. If you don't, move on...
***23v, then when petal is pressed 50v, stays at 50 from solnoid clicking until all the way down

Check throttle signal to controller. Locate the small wires plugged into the blade terminals of the controller. Un-plug the Green and Yellow wires. Insert probes of the multimeter into the ends of these wires. Polarity is not important. Set multimeter to 20K ohms. With F&R lever in Forward gradually increase throttle. You should see approximately 5000 ohms at zero throttle and 0 ohms at full throttle. Post results. 5.6k ohms down to 0 ohms.

TahoeDawgZ71 · 04-07-2014, 08:54 PM

I'm concerned with why you'd be getting 50 volts across the battery pack but only 48 out of the solenoid. Does all of the wiring look good? If you jump the two large posts of the solenoid do you show 50 volts to the controller then?

04-07-2014, 09:05 AM	#1
hannon70 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: SC Posts: 16	Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v? I have a 2000 Club Car DS 48v. I pulled my boat with it last week and now it goes a lot slower and then looses power quickly with batteries tested at full charge. (New batteries, all cables clean and good throughout.) I have have a plumb quick motor on it for 7 years with no problems. Does it sound like the controller? If so, are they hard to fix yourself (I can solder).

04-07-2014, 09:18 AM	#3
hannon70 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: SC Posts: 16	Re: Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v? It's Series.

04-07-2014, 09:19 AM	#4
hannon70 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: SC Posts: 16	Re: Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v? Sorry, didn't see your diagram.

04-07-2014, 09:38 AM	#5
TahoeDawgZ71 revolutiongolfcars.com Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Golf Car Capital of The World... Augusta, Georgia Posts: 10,224	Re: Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v? Get your multimeter out and set it to DC200V Check controller input voltage. Red lead on B+ Post of controller, Black lead on B- post of controller. With vehicle lifted into the air and tires off of the ground depress accel pedal. Car will begin to run. You should see full battery voltage on the multimeter as soon as the solenoid clicks. If you don't, let me know. You're not getting full power to your controller and we will figure out why. If you see full voltage, move on... Check controller output. Remove the #6 gauge white wire from the A2 post of the motor and secure it so that it cannot make contact with any live components or connections.. Put red lead on B+ post of controller. Black lead on M- post of controller. Gradually increase throttle. At full throttle you should see full battery voltage of car. If you do, your controller is working fine. If you don't, move on... Check throttle signal to controller. Locate the small wires plugged into the blade terminals of the controller. Un-plug the Green and Yellow wires. Insert probes of the multimeter into the ends of these wires. Polarity is not important. Set multimeter to 20K ohms. With F&R lever in Forward gradually increase throttle. You should see approximately 5000 ohms at zero throttle and 0 ohms at full throttle. Post results.

04-07-2014, 02:22 PM	#7
caokgafamily Gone Wild Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Ga Posts: 740	Re: Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v? Hannon70, how big is your boat? Last month I pulled out my backyard an arial towable basket man lift with my cart. I was crazy but my truck kept getting stuck. I was amazed my cart pulled it out. I haven't had any problems with my cart since then. But my cart is not stock. Steve

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04-07-2014, 10:23 AM	#6
hannon70 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: SC Posts: 16	Re: Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v? Thanks! I'll try it tonight & post results.

04-07-2014, 02:57 PM	#8
hannon70 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: SC Posts: 16	Re: Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v? It's a 19' bass boat. I think since the golf cart has high-speed motor and larger wheels, it could have strained the controller.

04-07-2014, 06:48 PM	#9
hannon70 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: SC Posts: 16	Re: Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v? Check controller input voltage. Red lead on B+ Post of controller, Black lead on B- post of controller. With vehicle lifted into the air and tires off of the ground depress accel pedal. Car will begin to run. You should see full battery voltage on the multimeter as soon as the solenoid clicks. If you don't, let me know. You're not getting full power to your controller and we will figure out why. If you see full voltage, move on... *50v across batteries, 48v before accellorator is pressed, 48v after solenoid clicks to full throttle. Check controller output. Remove the #6 gauge white wire from the A2 post of the motor and secure it so that it cannot make contact with any live components or connections.. Put red lead on B+ post of controller. Black lead on M- post of controller. Gradually increase throttle. At full throttle you should see full battery voltage of car. If you do, your controller is working fine. If you don't, move on... *23v, then when petal is pressed 50v, stays at 50 from solnoid clicking until all the way down Check throttle signal to controller. Locate the small wires plugged into the blade terminals of the controller. Un-plug the Green and Yellow wires. Insert probes of the multimeter into the ends of these wires. Polarity is not important. Set multimeter to 20K ohms. With F&R lever in Forward gradually increase throttle. You should see approximately 5000 ohms at zero throttle and 0 ohms at full throttle. Post results. 5.6k ohms down to 0 ohms.

04-07-2014, 08:54 PM	#10
TahoeDawgZ71 revolutiongolfcars.com Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Golf Car Capital of The World... Augusta, Georgia Posts: 10,224	Re: Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v? I'm concerned with why you'd be getting 50 volts across the battery pack but only 48 out of the solenoid. Does all of the wiring look good? If you jump the two large posts of the solenoid do you show 50 volts to the controller then?

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