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Unread 04-27-2014, 11:25 PM   #1
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Default Keep frying micro-switches

Bought a 93 DS in Nov. Stored it under a carport for the winter. Kept the batteries up and they read OK (hydro and volts). Ran it around the neighborhood for a little over a mile. Accelerator seemed to be a little flakey but thought was that from storage and would improve with use. Trailered it to grandson's baseball game. It made 2 short trips from parking lot to field and died. Replaced solenoid and diode before I noticed forward micro was toast(newbie). Swapped buzzer micro for bad micro, still no go. Couldn't get a reading trough multi-step micro sw. Replaced multi-step micro and fired up with the same results, 2 fried micro switches. Tell me I'm not looking at a new Curtis controller please.
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Unread 04-27-2014, 11:38 PM   #2
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Default Re: Keep frying micro-switches

Another 93 controller cart, nice to meet you! Factory CC 36 volt controller carts are kind of a rarity, they were only made for approximately a 2 year period.

Are you sure the microswitch wiring is correct? Here's the diagram:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...890336vpw2.jpg
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Unread 04-28-2014, 01:04 AM   #3
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Default Re: Keep frying micro-switches

yes, even the wire colors are right.
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Unread 04-28-2014, 01:32 AM   #4
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Default Re: Keep frying micro-switches

I just thought of something else. I installed a SOC meter ( that is wired only to battery bank) into dash. Could the dash mounting screw get to a key switch lug ? My frame is grounded.
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Unread 04-28-2014, 09:06 AM   #5
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Default Re: Keep frying micro-switches

It might have, that would be a good thinkg to check even if there isn't a problem - pierced wires are never good.

Also, what is grounded to the frame? A rule of thumb on electric carts is NEVER ground to the frame.
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Unread 04-28-2014, 12:03 PM   #6
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Default Re: Keep frying micro-switches

A black wire screwed to the frame. I haven't traced it yet but I can clip the neg. side of the meter to the frame to check voltages. I guess somebody did it before I got it to make testing easier. If I remember Ohm's Law right (retired elevator man, use it or lose it ), high amps due to high resistance is what is cooking the switches and the switches are acting as a fuse to keep the whole thing from becoming a toaster! Thanks for putting the grey cells to work on this. I have a feeling this is going to be one of those " why didn't I think of that sooner" cases.
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Unread 05-01-2014, 05:03 PM   #7
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Default Re: Keep frying micro-switches

I am chasing a ground on this thing. Took the frame ground out of play. I have 60k Ohm reading on the small red wire to small lug #1 on the controller and small yellow to B- reads to frame. Does any of this make sense on a Curtis controller ?
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Unread 05-13-2014, 04:18 PM   #8
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Default Re: Keep frying micro-switches

Rest of the story-
Found the reason for the frame ground, was due to the lights and horn being installed like an auto-
Rang out all wires, no shorts or breaks-
Solenoid, had replaced after first set of micros fried-
F&R s/w, cleaned with paint thinner, emery paper and electronic cleaner (no evidence of excess heat)-
Multi-step pot, was showing wear on bottom half of all contacts, used emery paper to get better contact (like when seating motor brushes), had play in pivot rod to linkage so I added a washer between the housing and linkage arm, adjusted pedal-to-pivot arm rod because contact wasn't making complete sweep, checked all steps and micro s/w with ohm meter, cleaned the same way as the F&R s/w-
Motor, did short and spin tests
Installed fuse to key s/w as per Curtis manual, saved me another set of micro s/w's (sorry, I can't remember who to thank for the link)-


Sorry this is so wordy but I'm hoping someone will catch something I missed before I order a controller from scottyb.


Thanks so much to everyone who directly and indirectly helped with this. I would have been totally up a creek without this blog.
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Unread 05-29-2014, 04:57 PM   #9
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Default Re: Keep frying micro-switches

End of story- ( I've noticed a lot of the treads don't give the final results once problem is found, so here it goes)

Installed a Alltrax AXE 4844P controller ( I doubted my Curtis was a useable as a core )-
Even though I had put in a new stock solenoid, I swapped it out for a 400/1000 amp from Carts Unlimited to have the option of 36v to 48v when I need new batteries-
Intend to upgrade cables and F&R s/w as budget will allow-
Cart now runs like a champ. Ran the heck out of it as handicap shuttle and snack shack go-fer at H.S. state play-offs without a hick-up or heat anywhere-

Wow, what a learning experience this was. I can now say I'm on intimate terms with this cart's electrical system ( with the exception of the magic smoke bottled up in the controller ). I can't thank everyone enough for showing me the way (Zen?) via this forum.
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Unread 05-29-2014, 05:03 PM   #10
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Default Re: Keep frying micro-switches

You didn't miss much by not seeing the magic smoke. Curtis controller magic smoke has a nasty smell that lingers for a while, kinda gets stuck in your nose hairs.

Glad you like it, now 48 volts when its time to upgrade will give you an awesome cart that's reliable.
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