Yet another 48/12 Reducer question

cbrown.tx

Ok... while back I bought a 2010 Precedent 48v on six 8v batteries. It has a Madjax 24/12 reducer that is connected to a "T" harness that connects to the light harness and the bucket/tail light harness (see pics). The wiring from the lights comes in from the top (pic 1) and ties into the light harness. The ground runs to the controller and the blue wire is the positive (pack pic). From what I've read/seen, it appears to be all Madjax setup; I tried finding a diagram on Madjax (cause Crash likes diagrams ) but no luck. The 24/12 setup has more or less killed three of my batteries as a result and I'll be replacing the pack in the not so distant future. It appears the two lines connected to the reducer are 24 in, 12 out?

That said... I bought a 48/12v reducer that I plan to tie to a Blue Seas 5025 fuse block. I am wondering if I can tie the new reducer in place of the current and move the blue positive to the main positive of the pack thus pushing 48v to it? I realize doing so, the lights would not tie to the fuse block and I guess I can live with that. Does this sound feasable, been done by someone, or is there a better/alternative thought. I'm new to it all for most part so open to suggestions from the experts on here.

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BGW

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crash test dummy

yes... just tie in reducer to the 48+

the 24v only useing half your pack is what killed the 2 batteries .. if you had to use the 24v reducer you should rotate the 2 batteries every month

attached are MADJAX diagrams

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	pres madjax2.jpg (86.6 KB, 0 views)

cbrown.tx

You da man Crash. I tried to pull diagrams and it kept giving me an error. Thank you sir

cbrown.tx

Ok... thought of something though. My lights are constant hot. The key can be in off position and I can still turn lights on. If I replace reducers, will that not leave it hot as well? The new reducer has the "kill" wire to run to the ignition wire. OR... will it have opposite affect and the lights will no longer be constant hot? I'm ok and almost would prefer that. Here is the reducer I purchased (Scotty was out of stock).

crash test dummy

i would re-wire cart as follows



that way lights and reducer are off with key

THEPISTONHEAD

That's the exact way I just did mine.....I even used the blue sea distribution/fuse block. So simple to add accessories at a later date.

cbrown.tx

This is what I envisioned BEFORE I pulled the dash and started looking at it. Guess I'm gonna have to just gut it and simplify. Thanks for the help.