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Unread 07-30-2014, 06:25 AM   #31
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Default Re: HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

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Originally Posted by scooterman View Post
LOL looks like your getting closer to fixing the issue. Does the cart run now?
So after removing the two wires from head lights to battery #4. There is no beep while I manually push cart in tow. When I put it run I still hear faint click under gas pedal. The reverse buzzer doesn't work now and still no solenoid click sound.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 07:56 AM   #32
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Default Re: HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

If the reverse buzzer does not work now, then the only power getting to the harness was coming from your now disconnected light wire.

Check the fuse by tow/run switch first to make sure it is ok.

Double check that you did not wire the key switch wrong during the install.
With the tow/run on run and the key switch off:
Set your meter to 200VDC, black probe on the pack negative and red probe on each of the terminals of the key switch. You should have +48v on one side of the key switch and 0v on the other.

If the fuse is OK and you don't get any power in the above test, you will need to test the diode that is in the harness before the tow/run switch.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 07:58 AM   #33
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Default Re: HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

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Originally Posted by jroeiii View Post
OK now I get it ... by using the POS / NEG on Battery #4 ... it's only 12 Volts, if using POS / Battery #4 and NEG on Battery #1 is would be 48 Volts.

Again not ideal (and definitely NOT COMMON practice), but should work and is not the immediate issue.

Just a thought -- Have you tried to reset the OBC?


[/B]
So I just tried Resetting OBC followed your instructions to a T. No changes now that head light wires are removed the reverse buzzer no longer sounds still no noise from solenoid.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 09:05 AM   #34
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Default Re: HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

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Originally Posted by GeneralLee View Post
So I just tried Resetting OBC followed your instructions to a T. No changes now that head light wires are removed the reverse buzzer no longer sounds still no noise from solenoid.
Run Sergios test he's on the right path, good chance you got lucky and blew that fuse or diode.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 11:21 AM   #35
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Default Re: HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

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Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
If the reverse buzzer does not work now, then the only power getting to the harness was coming from your now disconnected light wire.

Check the fuse by tow/run switch first to make sure it is ok.

Double check that you did not wire the key switch wrong during the install.
With the tow/run on run and the key switch off:
Set your meter to 200VDC, black probe on the pack negative and red probe on each of the terminals of the key switch. You should have +48v on one side of the key switch and 0v on the other.

If the fuse is OK and you don't get any power in the above test, you will need to test the diode that is in the harness before the tow/run switch.
The fuse you are suggesting I check is inside the yellow casing close to the back of the charger??

Where is the Diode, that you are talking about?
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Unread 07-30-2014, 01:22 PM   #36
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Default Re: HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

I found a 2007 wiring diagram, it appears club car did not use a fuse by the tow/run switch in that year model.

The most likely scenario based on the information you provided is that the key switch is wired incorrectly, I would guess you had the +48v light wire in place of the blue wire on position #2 of the key switch.

I am attaching the wiring diagram I pasted together, should help you with troubleshooting.
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File Type: jpg DS_IQ_2007_Wiring_small.jpg (519.3 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 07-30-2014, 02:40 PM   #37
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Default Re: HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

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Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
I found a 2007 wiring diagram, it appears club car did not use a fuse by the tow/run switch in that year model.

The most likely scenario based on the information you provided is that the key switch is wired incorrectly, I would guess you had the +48v light wire in place of the blue wire on position #2 of the key switch.

I am attaching the wiring diagram I pasted together, should help you with troubleshooting.
This is the picture from the passenger side of the wires going to key switch orange white & green wire share a post and the blue wire has it's own post.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0301.jpg (102.4 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 07-30-2014, 02:53 PM   #38
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Default Re: HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
I found a 2007 wiring diagram, it appears club car did not use a fuse by the tow/run switch in that year model.

The most likely scenario based on the information you provided is that the key switch is wired incorrectly, I would guess you had the +48v light wire in place of the blue wire on position #2 of the key switch.

I am attaching the wiring diagram I pasted together, should help you with troubleshooting.
My 2008 has the fuse holder under by the solenoid area, I bet it is somewhere around there just not obvious. I had to really look for it & I think part was in the wire loom hidden.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 04:29 PM   #39
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Default Re: HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

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Originally Posted by GeneralLee View Post
This is the picture from the passenger side of the wires going to key switch orange white & green wire share a post and the blue wire has it's own post.
orange white & green wire share a post -- key off 48v+

green (battery source thru the tow switch)
orange/white (low voltage indicator in the dash)

blue wire has it's own post -- key on 48V+

blue (goes to the Motor Controller Output Regulator). I just completed a Potentiometer to MCOR conversion and had to trace the blue wire.

That aligns with the schematic posted up above ^^^^
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Unread 07-31-2014, 10:33 AM   #40
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Default Re: HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

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Originally Posted by jroeiii View Post
orange white & green wire share a post -- key off 48v+

green (battery source thru the tow switch)
orange/white (low voltage indicator in the dash)

blue wire has it's own post -- key on 48V+

blue (goes to the Motor Controller Output Regulator). I just completed a Potentiometer to MCOR conversion and had to trace the blue wire.

That aligns with the schematic posted up above ^^^^
So I opened the factory dash and it looks like when pushing it back in I broke off one of the connections to the Key Switch I had an extra one and put it in rewired turned on runs great.

Thank you to all of you who helped me along the way.

Is there anyway you can help me get the lights to work and hook them up the right way. The second picture is behind the dash that is connected to the light pull switch.
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File Type: jpg photo 2.JPG (104.5 KB, 0 views)
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