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Unread 05-16-2015, 08:08 PM   #1
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Default DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

My 1999 EZGO with DCS won't move. I replaced all batteries, installed all new 4 gauge cables, installed a new solenoid (it clicks). Still no go. The tests listed on this site were not specific on if you turn the run switch back on and if you plug in the run/tow connector after you continuity test. Also the test said if your ITS tests over 14 volts with the 6 pin unplugged then the ITS is bad. My ITS is at 14.3 volts. But when I test the ITS with the 6 pin connected, and depress pedal it reads .5 volts and as I press slowly it moves smoothly from .5 up to 1.7 volts. SO i am not sure if ITS is bad or the controller is bad. I did try and jump motor posts and the motor turns on a 12 volt battery. My controller reads 36volts between A1 and B- and 36 volts between B- and B+. When I press the pedal to the floor the voltage goes to 34 volts at B+ and 28 volts at A1. Any help as to what the normal voltage is at A1 and B+ with and without pedal depressed. this will be greatly appreciated.
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Unread 05-17-2015, 08:37 AM   #2
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Default Re: DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

With all connectors connected, Pin-2 (black wire) should be slightly above 14V, but less than 16V.

Pin-1 (white wire) should read between 0.45V and 0.53V when pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click and then climb smoothly to above 1.5V as pedal is slowly pushed to floor.

If the 0.5V to 1.7V reading you listed are at Pin-1, your ITS is working okay.

The red flag that is waving at me is the voltage reading between the B- and B+ terminals on the controller.

When the solenoid is energized, the voltage between the controller's B- and B+ terminals should be equal to Pack voltage.

Since you only have 36V, either the battery pack is less than 50% charged, or the solenoid contacts are not closing.

Does the solenoid click when pedal is pushed?

What is the battery pack voltage? Should be at least 38.2V with full charged new batteries.


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The voltage between A1 (which is labeled M- on a DCS controller, but goes to A1 stud on motor) and B+ starts at Zero with pedal up and increases to FULL pack voltage (less about 0.1V per 100A of current flow) with pedal on floor.

The voltage between A1 and B- starts at FULL pack voltage with pedal up and decreases to Zero (plus about 0.1V per 100A of current flow) when pedal is on floor.
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Unread 05-17-2015, 09:19 AM   #3
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Default Re: DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

Thanks for your help. My voltage at b- to b+ was 36.8 with everything off, and is 34.4 full pedal. at b- to A1 it is 36.8 and then goes to 27.7 full pedal. My batteries are new and read 36.9 volts. When I plug in my charger it doesn't kick on. So I think they are full enough to not be calling for a charge? The test at the 10 pin black wire is 14.0 volts. The test on the white wire was .5 and climbs smoothly to 1.7v. The solenoid does click and is new. My old one was clicking also but I replaced it to rule that out. I didn't realize the nut on the FNR switch was for tension, so I started to take it off, when it released the spring I put it right back on. But now my forward doesn't seem to kick the solenoid. Reverse still kicks the solenoid so I think I need to adjust the FNR switch now.
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Unread 05-17-2015, 09:45 AM   #4
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Default Re: DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

In this cart the F&R activates a micro switch in each direction. They are exposed and you can see if they are being triggered and you can test them for continuity to see if they function.
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Unread 05-17-2015, 10:22 AM   #5
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Default Re: DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

probably the forward micro switch, I had to "fix" one years ago and then when I was having issues years later I kind of forgot about it and did all the other diagnostic testing when I just needed to replace the micro switch. Site sponsors have them, think I paid like $50 for both of them, have not needed to replace the reverse switch. The ones I ordered looked different than original but still worked.
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Unread 05-17-2015, 11:43 AM   #6
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Default Re: DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

I tested between (A1) m- and b+ at full pedal in reverse and in forward and I get about 7 volts each time, and the tires barely go half an inch (jacked up off ground). Then I start smelling some hot elecronics coming from the area of the DCS. I just hate buying a new DCS and ruining it to if something else is the issue. Wiring all seems to be decent. No breaks rust corrosion etc.
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Unread 05-17-2015, 12:05 PM   #7
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Default Re: DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

Quote:
Originally Posted by monte5211 View Post
Thanks for your help. My voltage at b- to b+ was 36.8 with everything off, and is 34.4 full pedal. at b- to A1 it is 36.8 and then goes to 27.7 full pedal. My batteries are new and read 36.9 volts. When I plug in my charger it doesn't kick on. So I think they are full enough to not be calling for a charge? The test at the 10 pin black wire is 14.0 volts. The test on the white wire was .5 and climbs smoothly to 1.7v. The solenoid does click and is new. My old one was clicking also but I replaced it to rule that out. I didn't realize the nut on the FNR switch was for tension, so I started to take it off, when it released the spring I put it right back on. But now my forward doesn't seem to kick the solenoid. Reverse still kicks the solenoid so I think I need to adjust the FNR switch now.
Your new batteries are less than 65% charged, so the plates are sulfating as we speak.

Even when the battery pack is fully charged, your charger ought to turn on when it is plugged into cart. It may only stay on for a few moments. but ought to turn on due to the fact that a fully charged 36V battery pack is about 38.2V and the shut-off voltage for the charger is about 45V.

What make/model charger do you have?
Whatever is keeping it from turning on needs to be fixed before fixing the cart since sitting at 65% SoC is killing your new batteries and the cart not moving isn't hurting them.

-----------------

The nut only adjusts how hard the F/R lever is to move.
What causes the cart to run in Forward or Reverse are the lumps and indentations on the outside circumference of metal disk the nut holds on.

The two switches are "Run" and "Reverse". When the lever in in F, on the Runs switch is activated. When the lever is in R, both are activated.
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Unread 05-17-2015, 12:22 PM   #8
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Default Re: DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

Quote:
Originally Posted by monte5211 View Post
I tested between (A1) m- and b+ at full pedal in reverse and in forward and I get about 7 volts each time, and the tires barely go half an inch (jacked up off ground). Then I start smelling some hot elecronics coming from the area of the DCS. I just hate buying a new DCS and ruining it to if something else is the issue. Wiring all seems to be decent. No breaks rust corrosion etc.
The Curtis 1206SX (DCX) was a flawed controller since it has no under-voltage protection and more or less self destructs when operated with deeply discharged battery pack.

When it gives up the ghost, replace it with an Alltrax DCX300 or DCX400 controller. The DCX300 is a direct replacement and a DCX400 will give you more low end torque, both are Plug-n-Play replacements.


------------
You might have a motor problem (bad brushes?).
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Unread 05-17-2015, 01:10 PM   #9
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Default Re: DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

The charger is working now. Helps if you don't unplug the charger to run a table saw and the scroll saw and don't plug it back in. Hmmmm LOL. It is an ezgo textron powerwise industrial model 28115 GO1. the motor is a Advanced DC Class H, rating is AU2500 Fleet Speed. Part AY4-4001 73124G01. Are the brushes easy to find and replace? I used to work in a magnetics shop that wound transformers so I think I can replace brushes with a little help on where to find/buy them. Where is a good place to buy the Alltrax controller? It is a wonder this Curtis controller lasted this long. We have had the cart 10 years and I thought you were supposed to let batteries run almost dead before charging. So I have run it low to dead for years before charging. Wish I would have known this years ago. thanks alot for the knowledge!!
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Unread 05-17-2015, 01:41 PM   #10
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Default Re: DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

Quote:
Originally Posted by monte5211 View Post
The charger is working now. Helps if you don't unplug the charger to run a table saw and the scroll saw and don't plug it back in. Hmmmm LOL. It is an ezgo textron powerwise industrial model 28115 GO1. the motor is a Advanced DC Class H, rating is AU2500 Fleet Speed. Part AY4-4001 73124G01. Are the brushes easy to find and replace? I used to work in a magnetics shop that wound transformers so I think I can replace brushes with a little help on where to find/buy them. Where is a good place to buy the Alltrax controller? It is a wonder this Curtis controller lasted this long. We have had the cart 10 years and I thought you were supposed to let batteries run almost dead before charging. So I have run it low to dead for years before charging. Wish I would have known this years ago. thanks alot for the knowledge!!
Lead-acid batteries have no memory, so they can be recharged at any time. For maximum battery lifespan (time until batteries have to be replaced), they should be recharged after each use and float charged between uses.

In a nutshell, the higher the average state of charge maintained, the longer it is before you have to buy new batteries.

You can get brushes from EZGO: https://shop.ezgo.com/products/Brush...ement-Kit.html

But you can probably find them cheaper at a local motor shop.

As for the controller: http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html
Kits for DCS carts near bottom of page.
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