lights- DC converter issue?

jeffro22

recently did a 48v conversion

hooked up the dc converter and the lights were working fine for a week or so. Now i have no lights at all. checked the fuses and they are good. are these converters prone to fail that quickly or are there some other things to check?

i am guessing with the key switch on i should have around 12v at the switch for the lights, and if not then the converter has gone bad

BGW

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Sir Nuke

first question would have is where did you get the converter?

may seem like a silly question but did ALL of the lights go out at the same time? (SYSTEM FAILURE)

with the key on and the lights turned on.....have you used a DVM to see if the sockets are "live"?

cgtech

"are these convertors prone to fail that quickly"? All depends, did you get it from china for $30?

jeffro22

every one i have seen is the same one from china. it is this one





yes, all the lights were working and now none of them are working

Sir Nuke

well it should be easy enough to check.....if you have it wired to the key switch.....turn on the key.....and use a DVM to check if you have an output. if you don't, it "pooped the bed". AND/OR check the POS and NEG of the supply to it for continuity. do you have ANYTHING else running off of it? does it work?

cgtech

Dpi and Surepower make them in usa. Dpi is cheaper. I have little confidence in chinese discount electronics. Now, im not sure if yours is failed or not, test input power and activate wire power to be sure. Also check output power and bulbs. I have had good luck with both the brands i mentioned (surepower supplies ezgo, yamaha, & gem, maybe others). I hope yours is not failed.

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jeffro22

input and activate wire both have power. When I check the green wire (12v postive output) i get a negative 26 volts

Sir Nuke

and we assume you went from the green power wire to the black ground?

if you were actually reading -27......its pulling the juice out of your DVM!! LOL

jeffro22

yes, green to black is reading negative volts

cartattach

Most reducers aren't worth the cost in my opinion and using basic math. This seems to be a hotly debated issue here with some on both sides. I figure that the $100 reducer is going to fail every 4-5 years (as many electronics these days do....or sooner) and that the difference when computed vs alleged battery life lost is a loss to those who buy the reducer. The winner is the person or company selling reducers if you ask me. I'm sure they'll be people that disagree but if you do the math it works out to not use reducers. I'd wire it up without it and see if the lights work. If they do, then you know.