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Old 09-27-2015, 08:07 AM   #1
mattadata
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Default Radio install question

What is the proper way to hook up the power for a regular car stereo on EZGO PDS 48 Volt? I have a voltage reducer. Do both the Red (ignition switch 12V) and Yellow (constant 12V) from the radio go to positive on the reducer?

Is there a way to hook Red up to the key switch?
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:58 AM   #2
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Radio install question

Connecting both Red and Yellow to the +12V from the voltage reducer would work, but you will probably lose the presets when the reducer shuts off.

The yellow wire has to have 12V on it all the time to retain whatever is stored in memory and keep the clock running if there is one.
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:28 AM   #3
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Default Re: Radio install question

What reducer are you using?
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:35 AM   #4
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Default

Not sure yet. I've got a refurbished 2011 48 V PDS being finished up by local shop. Does it make a difference which reducer?
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:55 PM   #5
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Default Re: Radio install question

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattadata View Post
Not sure yet. I've got a refurbished 2011 48 V PDS being finished up by local shop. Does it make a difference which reducer?
Most voltage reducers shut off entirely, but there are some voltage reducers out there that have a 12V output that stays on all the time as well as a 12V output that switches off when the keyswitch is turned off.
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Old 09-27-2015, 01:50 PM   #6
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Default Re: Radio install question

If your ezgo has the original reducer included with an OEM light system, you are in luck. The surepower reducer that ezgo used has both "switched" and "unswitched" 12v output. Thats perfect for a radio, it can be wired to turn off with the key and keep your settings & time while not being used.
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Old 10-14-2015, 10:03 AM   #7
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Default Re: Radio install question

My reducer doesn't have both the switched and unswitched 12v outputs. The reducer is wired to the ignition switch, so I can't hook the yellow wire from radio to it.

So I tried powering the radio memory by hooking it up to one of the 8V batteries. It did work, but the radio would cut out at high volumes. It was worse with the lights on and even worse while driving the cart.

So then I took a risk (radio has 10Amp fuse) and hooked it up to two 8V batteris for 16V. This works and doesn't cut out like the one 8V did.

Two questions about this setup:
1) If the yellow 12V constant wire is only for memory, why would the radio cut out when drawing more power?
2) I realize stealing from part of the pack is the wrong thing to do. I measured the current draw of the yellow 12V constant wire. When radio is off, it pulls 3 mA. When radio is on, it pulls between .5A and 1A based on volume. Am I killing my pack?

Thanks!
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:47 AM   #8
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Default Re: Radio install question

I have a quick question, bought a cheap 15$ voltage reducer 36-12v JUST to run the radio w/ 2 6-1/2s speakers. Of course the cheap thing is not switchable so I am guessing that if I don't put a switch in to break the circuit that the thing will probably be working the whole time a burn up ... and if I put a switch in then the radio will lose its memory and start in demo mode every single time. Also if the charger is an 18amp charger wouldn't that be sending 18 amps to this 10 amp reducer/regulator and fry it anyways ... thanks for any info and sorry if it has already been discussed.
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:14 AM   #9
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Default Re: Radio install question

I believe the yellow (constant) is not just for memory, that is your main power source. The red (switched) wire just tells the radio to turn on. 1 amp when the radio is on seems low for current. Which wire is factory fused? Red or Yellow? Do you have the range setting at the appropriate position on your multi-meter? MadJax makes a VERY nice reducer that offers both outputs. Its around $130-$150, but WELL worth it for the peace of mind.
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:21 AM   #10
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Default Re: Radio install question

zcroker12

I would put a switch on it, or just put it on ignition so it cuts off when not in use. If not it is going to constantly draw current even when the cart which will negate some or a lot of the charge the cart is receiving. Yes you will probably lose pre-sets (see last post for the recommended reducer.) Thats really the only way around it to properly achieve your results. The charger is not going to "send" 18amps to the reducer. It will only pull the current it needs. Over-voltage is what you would be concerned with. ie: 48volts input to a 36volt reducer
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