Wiring help on pds

Adawg

I ordered a new set of 4g cables for my 02 pds, but I'm a bit confused and font really understand the wiring diagrams. I set has 11 wires. The battery cables look straight forward, but the motor ones are driving me nuts. The motor is labeled A1 and A2. They already look as though they are 4g as they are significantly thicker than the battery cables. The F1&F2 coming off the motor are really thin wires. Do those get replaced as well by the new 4g? Also, do any cables go to the FR switch?

Please help a noob, thanks.

BGW

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JohnnieB

A complete set of high current cables for a stock PDS cart only has 10 cables.

If the set you received has 11 cables, it may be for an upgraded cart with an aftermarket controller and a 42V battery pack, which has seven 6V batteries rather than six and needs 6 cable rather than just 5. (Note: a stock PDS controller is 36V, so you have an extra cable)

The F1/F2 cables only carry a max of about 30A, so 10Ga is sufficient and unless the original cables are defective, they are not typically replaced or upgraded.

The wiring the the F/R rocker switch on the dash are low current control wires that tell the controller to change the direction of current flow in the Field windings. No upgrade is needed.

Five cables connect the six batteries in series for 36V.
The other five are:
1. Battery pack's main positive terminal to solenoid's battery side large terminal.
2. Solenoid's controller side large terminal to Motor's A2 terminal
3. Solenoid's controller side large terminal to Controller's B+ terminal.
4. Controller's A1 (may be marked M-) terminal to Motor's A1 terminal.
5. Battery pack's main negative terminal to controller's B- terminal.

Note: If the cable lugs are too thick for two to fit on the solenoid's controller side large terminal, connect the cable to the motor's A2 terminal to the B+ terminal on the controller.

kgsc

02 cart may have already had 4g cables going to the motor but it is good to go ahead and replace them. F1 & F2 are field wires and are 10g.. Just make sure they are not chaffed near the back of the battery tray passenger side.. Not sure how your new kit is labelled but the two longest should go to the motor from the controller area.

He got me again.. Listen to jb. I am logging off now..

Adawg

ive said it before, I'm so glad I found this forum. You guys are awesome. I'm gong to begin the swap in the morning. Stay tuned, I'll let you all know how I made out.

JohnnieB

Be careful when you take it out for a test drive, there are some strange drivers on the road on New Years Eve.

Adawg

I'm hoping my test run will be more off road ��

kernal

Thats where the strange drivers will end up. In the woods with you!

rib33024

Flip the Tow/Run switch to TOW before you do any work on the cart. Make sure to use two wrenches when removing the cables on the motor. Use one wrench to hold the nut that is holding the stud in the motor, and the other wrench to loosen the top nut holding the cable on. Do NOT let the stud sticking out of the motor TURN while removing the nut , or you will have big problems

Adawg

Got it. I've read some posts about that...