New Guy needs helps pls

MDOVERALL · 01-11-2016, 01:43 PM

Hello, and thanks for your time. I am extremely new at this and was given my first cart from a buddy who was going to fix it up but changed his mind. It is a 1997 EZGO TXT DCS 36 volt. It is stock with the exception of a lift and 22 in tires. He did not have a charger so I disconnected the batteries and charged them individual and hooked it back up to see if it would run but no luck. I have no cart experience and little electrical experience but I am confident I can figure it out with some of your expertise and guidance.

I began thinking it was the controller but not sure.

I did disconnect the battery from the motor and made jumpers and hooked a battery jump box and it spun no problem. so I hooked it back up

I then checked the speed sensor thing under the drivers side floor (has a plunger and a switch). Didn't know how to test it but it looked clean and appeared in good condition.

I then began trying to figure out how to test the controller and found a article on how to do this pasted it in below at the bottom, but kinda got lost when it was explaining to test the plugs.

I just want to ensure it goes before I buy new batteries, new cables, new attrex controller, and etc. and spend a ton of cash I know what the issue is.

I know the batteries are not good and only have a total of 14.35 v total for 6 x 6v Trojans. But again just trying to see if I can get power to the motor before upgrading

I measured the following
14.35 v total batteries
14.35 v neg on the battery and post on the battery side of solenoid

I then disconnected the negative, took off the run switch and tested wires

White Wire #1 12.9 v
Black Wire #2 11.36 v
Green/Black Wire #3 13.44 v
Orange Wire #4 14.59v

I hooked the neg terminal back up and left the run switch off and got this

White Wire #1 0.0 v
Black Wire #2 0.0 v
Green/Black Wire #3 14.02 v
Orange Wire #4 0.01 v

Thanks for any help or suggestions. I have to work so cant reply till later tonight but will keep an eye out and reply to any suggestions. thanks

Mike

************************************************** ***********
The article
ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - DCS

ALWAYS DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.
These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are clean and tight.
JACK UP REAR WHEELS or otherwise secure the rear end up off of the ground.
Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post.
Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage)
Connect (+) probe to the battery side of the solenoid's large stud.
The same voltage should be present. If not, inspect all solenoid and battery cables.
DISCONNECT battery bl(+) wire and unplug the "Run,Tow/Maintenance switch.
Perform a continuity test on wires 1 and 2, 3 and 4 TO THE CONTROLLER
Turn the key switch ON and place the gear selector in Forward.
Connect (-) probe of meter to Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will remain on the post for the rest of the testing procedures)
Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).
Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage.
If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty.
If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR key switch -Forward direction - Accelerator pedal pushed JUST to solenoid activation.

AT THE TEN PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the Run-Tow/Maintenance Switch and the Ten Pin Connector is faulty.
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector. The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but LESS than 16 volts.
If the voltage is below 14 volts, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty. Above 16 volts, the controller MAY be faulty.
Separate the (6) six pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller. If the voltage goes to 14-16 volts, the sensor is faulty.
If the voltage remains below 14 or above 16 volts, the controller is faulty.
RECONNECT the (6) six pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector. Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle. The reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.

tdump · 01-11-2016, 02:18 PM

I don't think it will even fart at 14 volts total,
If it were me,I would find 3 12 volt battery chargers, connect each 1 to 2 of the 6 volt battery's since they are in series in the cart, once you get that 36 volt from the chargers, and the battery voltage,jack it up off the ground and scotch it so it wont jump and try the go pedal after a few minutes charge time. The 1 I have that has a controller on it would not work until I had about 30 volts or so.

Volt_Ampere · 01-11-2016, 03:48 PM

The cart will not run at all on 14 Volts. You need to get good batteries or charge the ones you have up to at least 36V before it will run.

mgray70 · 01-11-2016, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MDOVERALL

Hello, and thanks for your time. I am extremely new at this and was given my first cart from a buddy who was going to fix it up but changed his mind. It is a 1997 EZGO TXT DCS 36 volt. It is stock with the exception of a lift and 22 in tires. He did not have a charger so I disconnected the batteries and charged them individual and hooked it back up to see if it would run but no luck. I have no cart experience and little electrical experience but I am confident I can figure it out with some of your expertise and guidance.

I began thinking it was the controller but not sure.

I did disconnect the battery from the motor and made jumpers and hooked a battery jump box and it spun no problem. so I hooked it back up

I then checked the speed sensor thing under the drivers side floor (has a plunger and a switch). Didn't know how to test it but it looked clean and appeared in good condition.

I then began trying to figure out how to test the controller and found a article on how to do this pasted it in below at the bottom, but kinda got lost when it was explaining to test the plugs.

I just want to ensure it goes before I buy new batteries, new cables, new attrex controller, and etc. and spend a ton of cash I know what the issue is.

I know the batteries are not good and only have a total of 14.35 v total for 6 x 6v Trojans. But again just trying to see if I can get power to the motor before upgrading

I measured the following

14.35 v total batteries

14.35 v neg on the battery and post on the battery side of solenoid

I then disconnected the negative, took off the run switch and tested wires

White Wire #1 12.9 v

Black Wire #2 11.36 v

Green/Black Wire #3 13.44 v

Orange Wire #4 14.59v

I hooked the neg terminal back up and left the run switch off and got this

White Wire #1 0.0 v

Black Wire #2 0.0 v

Green/Black Wire #3 14.02 v

Orange Wire #4 0.01 v

Thanks for any help or suggestions. I have to work so cant reply till later tonight but will keep an eye out and reply to any suggestions. thanks

Mike

************************************************** ***********

The article

ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - DCS

ALWAYS DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.

These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are clean and tight.

JACK UP REAR WHEELS or otherwise secure the rear end up off of the ground.

Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post.

Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage)

Connect (+) probe to the battery side of the solenoid's large stud.

The same voltage should be present. If not, inspect all solenoid and battery cables.

DISCONNECT battery bl(+) wire and unplug the "Run,Tow/Maintenance switch.

Perform a continuity test on wires 1 and 2, 3 and 4 TO THE CONTROLLER

Turn the key switch ON and place the gear selector in Forward.

Connect (-) probe of meter to Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will remain on the post for the rest of the testing procedures)

Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).

Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage.

If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty.

If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR key switch -Forward direction - Accelerator pedal pushed JUST to solenoid activation.

AT THE TEN PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER

Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.

If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the Run-Tow/Maintenance Switch and the Ten Pin Connector is faulty.

Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector. The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but LESS than 16 volts.

If the voltage is below 14 volts, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty. Above 16 volts, the controller MAY be faulty.

Separate the (6) six pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller. If the voltage goes to 14-16 volts, the sensor is faulty.

If the voltage remains below 14 or above 16 volts, the controller is faulty.

RECONNECT the (6) six pin connector.

Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector. Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.

Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle. The reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.

If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.

You said you wanted to make sure it would run before you spent money on batteries and new Alltrax controller. If you planning to do that anyway you should be good. You have already tested the motor. Anything else would be minor.

vagabond · 01-11-2016, 07:10 PM

there also might be a problem with the reed switch, which is a simple bypass, but try and get the batteries charged first

MDOVERALL · 01-11-2016, 10:15 PM

ok I will try to recharge them individually to get enough volts to see what happens and update it thanks

gornoman · 01-12-2016, 06:54 AM

There is an issue with DCS carts and low voltage. Using/testing the cart while in a low voltage condition can easily wipe out the OEM Curtis controller. Troubleshooting a cart without a know-good battery pack is virtually impossible.

bronsonj · 01-12-2016, 09:50 PM

If you cannot get your batteries up to 36v, another option is to use a very, very temporary setup of three 12v batteries wired in series. This will give you 36v but be heavily lacking in amps. So it should move, but don't expect it to go up any incline or drive very far. It's also going to be tough on the 12v car batteries. If it were me, I'd be happy if I drove two dozen feet then I'd take out the batteries and get a real set.

Also, don't think you can use marine deep cycle as a perm solution. Those won't cut it either. Just not anywhere near as much lead and amp capabilities as golf cart batteries.

Also, on a sepex cart there is a switch on the controller for run/tow. VERY IMPORTANT, always, always, always put it in TOW mode when fooling around with anything electrical. Leave it in RUN and you can fry your controller (depending on how lucky you are). Good luck!

MDOVERALL · 01-16-2016, 07:52 PM

ok gents I got batteries (borrowed from a friend)and they measure 37.7 v

Any ideas what is going on the reverse warning works and the solenoid doesn't click or make any noise ever

I then began and got the following measurements

The first measurement is it sitting normal the second is with the key on and pedal down to full acceleration

Battery Side of Solenoid 37.7v 37.7 V
Controller Side of Solenoid 37.7v 37.7v

2 prongs on side of solenoid 36.9v 4.7v
36.9v 4.7v
Wires at the 10 pin starting with the white wire closest to the batteries
1 37.2v 1.7v
2 35.3v 14.0v
3 39.9v 36.9v
4 36.9v 0.0v
5 36.9v 4.6v
6 36.9v 4.6v
7 36.9v 4.6v
8 blank
9 36.7v 37.5v
10 37.6v 37.6v

Big wires on the top of the controller that go to motor

closest to battery 37.6
middle 0.0v
outside one by the blk and white wires 37.6

blk wire on top of controller 36.8
white wire on top of controller 36.8

6 plug connecter with 4 wires that goes to the foot pedal switch box
blk 0.01
red 36.9
whi 37.2 v
green 36.8v

wires at the motor
S1 white smaller wire 12.1 v -12.1v
A1 big black wire 12.7v 25.2
S2 black small wire 12.7v 12.6v
A2 big black wire 12.3v -25.0v

Run Tow switch wires
Orange 36.7 v
all 3 others 37.6v

kgsc · 01-17-2016, 05:29 AM

The second voltage number is way low. You have a problem in the activation circuit. Starting with putting the neg from your meter on the pack neg, take the pos lead and check the red wire at the charge port for pack voltage. If you have it there follow that harness to the passenger side and check the red wire there at the splice. If still good, look for a grey wire harness coming from the pedal box and find the 4 wire connection. Should be white, black, red and green. I think. Leave white and black alone but the other two should have pack voltage. If good here, check the back of the key switch. If still good we can keep looking.

Little edit. Better detail look here and start with the red wire at the charge socket. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...eshooting.html

01-11-2016, 01:43 PM	#1
MDOVERALL Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 9	New Guy needs helps pls Hello, and thanks for your time. I am extremely new at this and was given my first cart from a buddy who was going to fix it up but changed his mind. It is a 1997 EZGO TXT DCS 36 volt. It is stock with the exception of a lift and 22 in tires. He did not have a charger so I disconnected the batteries and charged them individual and hooked it back up to see if it would run but no luck. I have no cart experience and little electrical experience but I am confident I can figure it out with some of your expertise and guidance. I began thinking it was the controller but not sure. I did disconnect the battery from the motor and made jumpers and hooked a battery jump box and it spun no problem. so I hooked it back up I then checked the speed sensor thing under the drivers side floor (has a plunger and a switch). Didn't know how to test it but it looked clean and appeared in good condition. I then began trying to figure out how to test the controller and found a article on how to do this pasted it in below at the bottom, but kinda got lost when it was explaining to test the plugs. I just want to ensure it goes before I buy new batteries, new cables, new attrex controller, and etc. and spend a ton of cash I know what the issue is. I know the batteries are not good and only have a total of 14.35 v total for 6 x 6v Trojans. But again just trying to see if I can get power to the motor before upgrading I measured the following 14.35 v total batteries 14.35 v neg on the battery and post on the battery side of solenoid I then disconnected the negative, took off the run switch and tested wires White Wire #1 12.9 v Black Wire #2 11.36 v Green/Black Wire #3 13.44 v Orange Wire #4 14.59v I hooked the neg terminal back up and left the run switch off and got this White Wire #1 0.0 v Black Wire #2 0.0 v Green/Black Wire #3 14.02 v Orange Wire #4 0.01 v Thanks for any help or suggestions. I have to work so cant reply till later tonight but will keep an eye out and reply to any suggestions. thanks Mike ************************************************ ********* The article ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - DCS ALWAYS DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED. These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are clean and tight. JACK UP REAR WHEELS or otherwise secure the rear end up off of the ground. Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post. Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage) Connect (+) probe to the battery side of the solenoid's large stud. The same voltage should be present. If not, inspect all solenoid and battery cables. DISCONNECT battery bl(+) wire and unplug the "Run,Tow/Maintenance switch. Perform a continuity test on wires 1 and 2, 3 and 4 TO THE CONTROLLER Turn the key switch ON and place the gear selector in Forward. Connect (-) probe of meter to Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will remain on the post for the rest of the testing procedures) Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals). Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty. If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid. INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR key switch -Forward direction - Accelerator pedal pushed JUST to solenoid activation. AT THE TEN PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector. If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the Run-Tow/Maintenance Switch and the Ten Pin Connector is faulty. Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector. The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but LESS than 16 volts. If the voltage is below 14 volts, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty. Above 16 volts, the controller MAY be faulty. Separate the (6) six pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller. If the voltage goes to 14-16 volts, the sensor is faulty. If the voltage remains below 14 or above 16 volts, the controller is faulty. RECONNECT the (6) six pin connector. Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector. Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated. Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle. The reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts. If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.
MDOVERALL Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 9

01-11-2016, 07:10 PM	#5
vagabond Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Lake Elsinore Ca. Posts: 549	Re: New Guy needs helps pls there also might be a problem with the reed switch, which is a simple bypass, but try and get the batteries charged first

01-11-2016, 10:15 PM	#6
MDOVERALL Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 9	Re: New Guy needs helps pls ok I will try to recharge them individually to get enough volts to see what happens and update it thanks
MDOVERALL Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 9

01-12-2016, 06:54 AM	#7
gornoman Stay thirsty my friends! Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Suburban Chicago Posts: 24,284	Re: New Guy needs helps pls There is an issue with DCS carts and low voltage. Using/testing the cart while in a low voltage condition can easily wipe out the OEM Curtis controller. Troubleshooting a cart without a know-good battery pack is virtually impossible.

01-12-2016, 09:50 PM	#8
bronsonj Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Saint Petersburg, FL Posts: 2,089	Re: New Guy needs helps pls If you cannot get your batteries up to 36v, another option is to use a very, very temporary setup of three 12v batteries wired in series. This will give you 36v but be heavily lacking in amps. So it should move, but don't expect it to go up any incline or drive very far. It's also going to be tough on the 12v car batteries. If it were me, I'd be happy if I drove two dozen feet then I'd take out the batteries and get a real set. Also, don't think you can use marine deep cycle as a perm solution. Those won't cut it either. Just not anywhere near as much lead and amp capabilities as golf cart batteries. Also, on a sepex cart there is a switch on the controller for run/tow. VERY IMPORTANT, always, always, always put it in TOW mode when fooling around with anything electrical. Leave it in RUN and you can fry your controller (depending on how lucky you are). Good luck!

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01-11-2016, 02:18 PM	#2
tdump Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: north carolina, small state on planet earth Posts: 265	Re: New Guy needs helps pls I don't think it will even fart at 14 volts total, If it were me,I would find 3 12 volt battery chargers, connect each 1 to 2 of the 6 volt battery's since they are in series in the cart, once you get that 36 volt from the chargers, and the battery voltage,jack it up off the ground and scotch it so it wont jump and try the go pedal after a few minutes charge time. The 1 I have that has a controller on it would not work until I had about 30 volts or so.

01-11-2016, 03:48 PM	#3
Volt_Ampere Gone Wild Join Date: May 2012 Location: Rio Verde, Az Posts: 7,165	Re: New Guy needs helps pls The cart will not run at all on 14 Volts. You need to get good batteries or charge the ones you have up to at least 36V before it will run.

01-16-2016, 07:52 PM	#9
MDOVERALL Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 9	Re: New Guy needs helps pls ok gents I got batteries (borrowed from a friend)and they measure 37.7 v Any ideas what is going on the reverse warning works and the solenoid doesn't click or make any noise ever I then began and got the following measurements The first measurement is it sitting normal the second is with the key on and pedal down to full acceleration Battery Side of Solenoid 37.7v 37.7 V Controller Side of Solenoid 37.7v 37.7v 2 prongs on side of solenoid 36.9v 4.7v 36.9v 4.7v Wires at the 10 pin starting with the white wire closest to the batteries 1 37.2v 1.7v 2 35.3v 14.0v 3 39.9v 36.9v 4 36.9v 0.0v 5 36.9v 4.6v 6 36.9v 4.6v 7 36.9v 4.6v 8 blank 9 36.7v 37.5v 10 37.6v 37.6v Big wires on the top of the controller that go to motor closest to battery 37.6 middle 0.0v outside one by the blk and white wires 37.6 blk wire on top of controller 36.8 white wire on top of controller 36.8 6 plug connecter with 4 wires that goes to the foot pedal switch box blk 0.01 red 36.9 whi 37.2 v green 36.8v wires at the motor S1 white smaller wire 12.1 v -12.1v A1 big black wire 12.7v 25.2 S2 black small wire 12.7v 12.6v A2 big black wire 12.3v -25.0v Run Tow switch wires Orange 36.7 v all 3 others 37.6v
MDOVERALL Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 9

01-17-2016, 05:29 AM	#10
kgsc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Aiken, SC Posts: 13,120	Re: New Guy needs helps pls The second voltage number is way low. You have a problem in the activation circuit. Starting with putting the neg from your meter on the pack neg, take the pos lead and check the red wire at the charge port for pack voltage. If you have it there follow that harness to the passenger side and check the red wire there at the splice. If still good, look for a grey wire harness coming from the pedal box and find the 4 wire connection. Should be white, black, red and green. I think. Leave white and black alone but the other two should have pack voltage. If good here, check the back of the key switch. If still good we can keep looking. Little edit. Better detail look here and start with the red wire at the charge socket. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...eshooting.html

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