96 EZGO won't move....sometimes

hoggjaww

Hello out there, I'm having a problem with my 36v EZGO, manuf code 12296. I was out in the yard picking up sticks and it just stopped responding either forward or reverse.

]Towed it back to the house and cleaned all battery post/cables, they weren't that dirty but I figure a good cleaning and general tightening can't hurt. It responded in reverse and forward a couple of times then it stopped. This will be an ongoing theme here.

I bypassed the reed switch. The Battery pack showed 38.0, I blocked the front wheel and checked each battery separately 6.4v static to 6.38/37 when pressing the pedal. Yes it allowed me to get 6 readings, I thought I was on to something, WRONG!!! It went in F&R 3 or 4 times and quit responding again.

I then jumped the micro switch at the throttle. With the rear wheels in the air it went F&R 10 or 12 times with no problems. Great!! So lower the cart, remove all tools, replace the seat, put in reverse to back out for a test drive, and you guessed it 3 ft then nothing.

What should I check, jump, or test next? Maybe the solenoid.

BGW

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JohnnieB

Series drive or DCS?

Does solenoid click when cart is misbehaving?

hoggjaww

DCS

Solenoid still clicks when put in forward or reverse and I used to hear a click when pressing the throttle before I jumped the micro switch.

JohnnieB

Section "F" in attached service manual has a troubleshooting tree for a DCS.

Chance are high that the controller is failing.
If so, replace it with an Alltrax DCX or XCT. (Don't replace it with a stock controller, they have reliability issues.)

Attached Files

electric gof cars & personal vehicles, fleet car,freedom,dcs,4 caddyshuttle 2+2,28469G01RS_.pdf (17.13 MB, 0 views)

scottyb

Johnnie didn't say it but when you bypass the pedal ms you are activating the solenoid. (you say it used to click with the pedal) The solenoid is designed to be disengaged to cool after so much operation. The constant engagement will harm the solenoid.

hoggjaww

Even with the key off and selector in neutral?

It does not appear to be the problem anyway, I ohm'd it outside the cart and seems to be working. I'll just put it back in.

JohnnieB

Energizing the solenoid is a two step process in a DCS.

First B+ is applied to the solenoid coil, controller electronics and pedal switch via the runs switch on the F/R and the keyswitch. Then when the pedal is pushed, the controller applies B- to the other side of the solenoid coil, completing the energizing process.

With the pedal switch bypassed, the solenoid would be energized whenever a direction was selected and the key was ON, eliminating a safety feature increasing the possibility of the solenoid being energized for extended periods of time.

Attached Images

Wiring Diagram - DCS - No Reverse Diode -KSI Traced.JPG (94.7 KB, 0 views)

scottyb

Roger that.

hoggjaww

I put the switch back in, went in reverse about 3 ft and stopped, no surprise there.

Thanks for the manual download. I learned something new already, "After reconnecting the battery pack wait 30 seconds before switching from tow to run."

I'll start trouble shooting the controller now. My printer won't cooperate, neither will the grey matter between my ears. By the time I get outside to run a check after having read it on the computer I forget what I'm supposed to do, gonna be a long afternoon.

hoggjaww

Ok, I'm getting reference voltage for steps 2,3 (37.5 in this case) but only 4.5v at pin 5 on step 4, pedal depressed key off F&R in neutral.

This step is confusing, how can I get the solenoid to click without the key on or the F&R engaged?


I have to edit this, now I'm only getting 5.2 at B+ step 1