LED Headlight voltage question

timmyjane

I am working on the lighting system of our cart. Wife wants turn signals and brake lights and I tend to agree that it would be a good idea since we drive on road a lot.

I've got a universal column mount turn signal switch, brake switch and flasher relay on the way.

I was checking out some replacement LED lights to replace the halogens in the headlights to try and get more light output and saw that they can run 12-24v. Looking at the spec sheet for the 2323 Samsung LEDs it seems that the higher the voltage the brighter the light. Since I'm not an EE I am probably reading the sheet wrong.

Do yall think that the bulbs would have a voltage regulator built in to keep the bulbs running at 12v regardless of the input or could I get additional brightness by running them on 24v.

Here is the link to the LED data sheet:http://www.samsung.com/global/busine...t_rev005-0.pdf

And here is the eBay link to the bulbs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141864465879

I figured I could run the lighting system off of a 48-24v converter and make a voltage dividing circuit somewhere in line to reduce the output to 12v for the turn signals and tail lights since I don't know if they would run on 24v.

The tail lights are LED if anyone knows of they are 24v compatible. The front marker lights are still halogens which are certainly 12v.

Thanks.

BGW

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crash test dummy

it would be unwise to mix the voltages
mine run up to 14v to 9v with no change in brightness
you can get front LEDs turn signal bulbs to replace the halogens
you need an electronic flasher to handle the rear LED tail lights

Volt_Ampere

Most 12V reducers are really 13.5V which is standard 12V battery nominal voltage. I would run your LED lights on that. They will be plenty bright.

Volt_Ampere

Some flashers won't work with LED lights because they do not draw enough current to trip the flasher. You may have to replace the flasher with one made for LED lights.

timmyjane

Ok. Thanks guys. I do have a flasher for LED.

Helirich

If you don't mind, why not just hook a jumper wire up and try it on both 12 and 24? Then report back to us. I'm courious how much difference there is. As far as mixing voltages, too late, you allready are.

I have to say, I personally would not care to put three voltages on the cart. I bought a "Beast" golf cart for parts that had a 24 volt winch on it. The multiple volt issue is one of the reasons I didn't put it on my TXT. It's too bad they don't have all the lights in 48V.

By the way, I have a winch for sale. LOL.

timmyjane

Good point about already mixing. Ill hook the bulbs up to 24 and see if there is much difference.

I installed some speakers today. I had a little 12v amplifier with 3.5mm input that I hooked up. Its was sounding good until I tried to hook the power supply to a relay to turn the amp on and off with the key switch.

I connected the relay to 48v on the coil and connected the 12v ground to the NO circuit. For some reason when I energized the coil I got 48v through the relay and cooked the amp. Smoke and everything. Guess I had a bum relay. Luckily these little amps can be gotten off Amazon for <$15. Try it again later in the week with a new relay.

dcatlin7921

With LEDs I do know that they can burn out significantly faster at high voltages/higher output. I know some EE's that run all of there LEDs with resistors to reduce the voltage to 9volts.

mjroman20

They usually self regulate to a voltage set to run the LEDs. If you look at the nameplate on the light or the datasheet it will probably have a wattage in addition to the voltage range. I have a lamp that takes 12~80V. If you have a current limiting voltage supply or an Amp meter you will probably see the current drop as you increase the voltage. That being said you should usually use the highest available rated voltage you have to reduce the current draw from your system. (not that LEDs pull that much to begin with though)