Ezgo TXT 48 upgrades

scottyb · 06-02-2016, 03:43 PM

The 2011 TXT 48 Ezgo has arrived in the shop for research and modification.
Our initial goal is a stock looking cart that runs 25 mph.

We received a white cart with 6 new Trojan T875 8v batteries.

The drive system upgrades include :
Alltrax XCT400 control & 200 solenoid
Complete 10pc set of custom 2g cables by me.
10 hp Admiral D2 motor.

scottyb · 06-02-2016, 03:57 PM

Another use for this cart will be to update the age old flow chart for drive system identification... currently there is no TXT48 in the chart.
Even through the cart has been out since 2010

See industry standard chart below

scottyb · 06-02-2016, 04:05 PM

The TXT48 control with separate solenoid housing is easily identified. see pic.
More pics under the covers later.

scottyb · 06-02-2016, 05:29 PM

So here is the new Ezgo TXT drive system ID chart

scottyb · 06-02-2016, 07:26 PM

Phase one
XCT400TXT48 installed
Pics when my phone charges up some

scottyb · 06-02-2016, 07:47 PM

The environmental covers unbolted with a 3/8 socket I prefer an 18v electric hammer drive like the Ryobi pictured. I also prefer a 6" flex extension for Ezgo controller R&R because everything is at such an angle to the general access. These tools are not necessary but they will make the install easier.
Once the bolts were removed the controller cover had to be pried from the base... typical Ezgo but it keeps everything nice and clean underneath.

You can see in the last pic I have disconnected the 16 pin plug for the control. This is the main logic control harness. There is a small 4 pin which will not be reused. It was for the OEM control programming.
We will be using a usb cable, free Alltrax software, and a laptop to program in the future. So here is what the project looks like.

scottyb · 06-02-2016, 08:01 PM

If you have not already be sure to flip the run/tow switch to tow and disconnect the plug. Now is a good time to insure the main (-) cable is also disconnected.
Take a couple of cell phone pics so you can reference where wires and cables were on the OEM set up. This can really help if you get a little lost later on.

Note that all of the high amp cables are going to simply bolt onto new locations. Most of the small wires will need a little more work. We will go over this one by one...there are 4 wires that need the ends changed.

In the last pic on the far right there are 2 cables on the controller B+ terminal. These 2 cables will also land on the new controller B+ so I have taken a small zip tie through the rings of both to keep them together. Now I know these 2 cables go to B+ on the new control... the single blue cable on the far left is a direct connection to Battery B- and it goes to B- on the new control. That leave the cable marked A- and the booklet install diagram shows it goes to new controller M- (motor-)

Now we know where all the big cables are going.. not shown in the pic are the two 10g cables with spade (slip on) connectors.... I already pulled them off in this pic. They are F1 and F2 and they will go to terminals J7 and J8 as shown in the install diagram. Simple.

scottyb · 06-02-2016, 08:13 PM

Here I have removed the old control and selected the new XCT with custom solenoid bracket. I have connected to a laptop with a simple usb cable and programmed the control. This is something I do for every control before it ships. You can make program changes if you like but it is not necessary - I preset a soft start and max speed and torque into each control.

scottyb · 06-02-2016, 08:19 PM

The new control will line up with 4 of the OEM holes in the heat sink. Mounting without the flexmount adapter does require four 1/4-20 x1.25 bolts. The solenoid bracket was attached using the 2 lower bolt holes. The diode was installed with the banded end ( red connector ) on the + terminal. Polarity is very important to the SW180 solenoid so it can perform it's contact protection.

scottyb · 06-02-2016, 08:40 PM

Okay - we are 1/2 way there to completing the install. If you followed me so far you can follow the rest of it no problem.

The solenoid little wires and cables need to be freed from the old puny solenoid. I think 10mm for the small bolts and 13mm or 1/2 inch for the mains.
When you disconnect the main battery (+) cable you will notice a small red wire on the same terminal.... these two will go the solenoid post marked + (note this battery cable goes to the battery pack main (+) - so that's simple and makes sense! right?

Now pay attention... the small wires are short to reach the new solenoid location. I have cut a zip tie and peeled back the plastic wire harness shield to expose an tape wrap holding the wires together, i took a razor knife and cut the tape, and this released the blue and red wires to where they will reach the new solenoid. However - the yellow wire was short and I extended it by 6-9 inches as shown......

NOW - let me tell you something I learned during this install.
Doing this again I would invert the solenoid, big terminals down. This will do 2 things for you.
1. the protection diode will not interfere with the run tow switch because it will be on the opposite side.
2. the yellow wire may be long enough to reach without an extension.

Regardless of upright or upside down solenoid installation polarity MUST be obeyed. Note that the main battery (+) cable and the small res wire with factory 5/16ths terminal end both land on the big solenoid post marked +... see last pic

Similar Threads
Thread	Forum
new to me 99 ezgo week 1 upgrades	Electric EZGO
97 Ezgo upgrades.	Electric EZGO
98' ezgo lift upgrades	Electric EZGO
EZGO Series Upgrades	Electric EZGO
Upgrades on 2007 ezgo	Gas EZGO

Today
BGW	Sponsored Links __________________ This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum