Electric EZGO: difficult/delicate drivetrain activation?

Robb2k

Just registered and first post, so just want to say thanks to all that are hear helping newbies like myself. I have a brother with a learning disability I purchased the cart for about 2 years ago (as seen in my profile pic). It seems that about 1 year ago it would intermittently go into gear for him but if he turned the key off then to F or R several times would eventually run again. Well now it does this all of the time to the point he is unable to use it. When the key is turned from off to either F or R you hear an initial "click", then if you oh so delicately press the pedal forward you'll hear a 2nd click, and if you are delicate enough to hold it in that place for a second or 2 you can continue to press forward on the pedal and vehicle will drive. It will then drive with no problem for as long as you maintain some pressure on pedal. If you let off on pedal all the way vehicle slows to a stop even if you press pedal down again before stopping all the way. Then you have to repeat the delicate procedure of getting the drivetrain to engage again. I can repeat this over and over but it is too complicated for my brother to do to be able to use the cart. If you turn on and just press the pedal forward you never hear that 2nd "click" that seems to engage the drivetrain. Have checked all connections and have found nothing loose or corroded. Any suggestions on what I should do next to troubleshoot?

BGW

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Filthy-Beast

Welcome, I'm new here also but will guess is a switch at the pedal. The real answer people will want to some details on your cart, year, voltage etc.

scottyb

It really does sound like the trouble is in the pedal switch. Lift the floor mat and remove the pedal box cover. Test the switch operation for inconsistency.

Robb2k

Thanks! Details that I could find about cart: found a sticker on inside of body that says EZGO ASSY R BDY IVORY 03/27/2010, also a sticker on steering column that says serial# 5116876, model# 606600G01, date code K0110. It appears there are 4 x 12v batteries. (will attempt to post pics)

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scottyb

Need a picture of the whole cart.

Robb2k

Sorry, thought profile pic would show but doesn't seem to be. Here is pic of cart:

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Dramier

2010 RXV Standard. Pro tip: You can go to ezgo's site and enter your serial in to get that information.

The last two digits of the date code correspond to the year.

It is very likely you have a failing pedal switch. The RXV uses a pedal switch very similiar in design to Yamaha's switches, and both are known for going bad slowly like you are describing. You can remove the floor mat, which will generally require removing the sill plate. You will need Torx bits to do this if it has factory bolts. Also note that there are christmas tree plastic push rivets holding the floor mat to the base. You will need to carefully pry those out. Then peel back the floor mat and you will see a large metal plate surrounding the pedals. Remove more of those plastic rivets holding it down, be especially wary of the ones closest to the pedal. Once all are out, remove the plate by tilting the side closest to the seat up and then pulling out towards the seat slowly. Be careful not to yank it and scratch your body!

CAUTION!!! This switch utilizes 48V!!! It is heavily advised to disconnect the battery pack before doing tests!

At the base of the accelerator pedal you will see the switch mounted. Has a gray body with a black rubber tip. Engage the pedal with the key off several times to get an idea of how it works and what it looks like. Then you can remove the connector and perform a continuity test between the red and blue wire pins.

The controller is basically watching the blue wire for 48V. That's all there is to it. You can usually tell a bad switch because the "click" won't be clear and distinct when you operate the switch. You'll get instead a "mushy" kind of feel to it.

Hope this helps, be careful and best of luck.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, be advised that if you decide to replace this switch that there are multiple versions. Make sure you match up the correct one. Also, it is mounted with allen head bolts. It is kind of a pain to get to, so be prepared for some hand contortion.

Robb2k

Thanks so much for the help. I removed the rubber floor mat and the pedal switch cover without problem. Inspected the switch and it seemed to be mounted securely and making contact like it should with the pedal and engaging/disengaging when pressing pedal. Wires connections were not loose and secure. Then things went from bad to worse as I thought I would then try turning on key expecting to hear the single "click" and then watch as I pressed the pedal to see at what point I heard the 2nd "click" followed by drivetrain activation....well I turned the key and immediately heard 2 distinct clicks. And when I press pedal no additional "click" noises but a low "hum" heard down towards the rear transfer case area that would last 2-3 seconds when I would press pedal. So after this happened I hopped online here again and started digging for troubleshooting ideas and realized I was probably getting in way over my head so broke down and called the dealer I purchased from who came and picked it up today. I know I know.....I'll turn in my "man card".....but I feel terrible that my brother is really stressed about it not working and that I could be headed down a rabbit hole with no end in site. Anyways, long story short they said that the computer diagnostic showed both the throttle linkage and the motor brake failing within the same hour. So they are replacing with an after market heavy duty motor brake. I know I could be taken for sucker and replacing something without knowing it needed or not, but just wanted to post in case it helps someone else in the future. Oh, he also confirmed what you already knew and told me: model is a 2010 RXV standard 48v. He also said that the current on this cart is AC and not DC....didn't know that. Anyhow, thanks again for the help. Will try not to throw in the towel so early next time! lol