2009 Ez-Go RXV 48 Vdc Electric Jerks while running

virgildbradberryjr

I presently own a Brand New 2009 Ez-Go RXV Freedom, 48Vdc Electric Cart. Long story short, Had to upgrade my Danaher Speed Controller to the Curtis 1206AC5211 Controller. Bought the complete kit from Ez-Go. Heat sink, resistor, Curtis Controller, Mounting Brackets, 23 to 23 Female connector, 23 Pin to 35 Pin wiring harness #626124 & Power Wires. Installed (4) new Trojan T1275 Batteries. The contactor has been upgraded with Diode installed. After upgrading the cart, I noticed the cart jerks really bad while running in Forward & Reverse or while braking. So I replaced the Bearing Encoder #612595.But it still jerks. I also purchased the 1313-4401 Programmer. It has no immediate codes or Historic Codes.

Please forgive me if I have not posted this correctly.
Thank you.

BGW

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yamahaguy97

hmm so the car acts up like this AFTER you upgraded it??

don't know specifically but you could have an issue with your controller, possibly solenoid auto brake type thing..

someone with more brains about these cars will be on shortly


steve

virgildbradberryjr

I agree, So I tested the Brake solenoid Voltage while driving the cart, The cart was Jerking while I was driving it, the voltage to the brake Solenoid was not on/off, on/off. it was steady 51.3Vdc. I can also switch it over to Service, the Brake releases. the cart moves freely. I hope this is what you were talking about. Thank you, Sir...

cgtech

your cart has corrosion in the harness. best move is to buy the harness for the "curtis" controller cart & replace yours. that will eliminate that "conversion box" (conversion box is not your problem). I have seen this problem plenty of times. number one culprit is the wiring that goes from your motor to the controller area on the right hand side of the cart. number two culprit is the corrosion on the harness on the front edge of the battery pack. if you want to see for yourself, pull all the black wire loom off to see the "salty looking" wires you will find. ezgo swears this problem is fixed with the new wiring harness. your problems likely relate to the motor encoder and it's wires back to the controller.

BobBoyce

I concur with the harness change. My early 2012 RXV had the factory Danaher harness with the 23 pin double socket unit and the 23 to 35 pin adapter cable, connected to a Curtis 1206AC-5201 controller. The factory built them like that during the first month of the Curtis controller change.

One of the issues I found is that while the very early 1206AC-5201 was programmed to co-exist with the Danaher method of combining +5 and ground for the throttle/brake/motor encoders, the later 1206AC-XXXX controllers were not. So your 1206AC-5211 is not going to function well with a converted Danaher harness. The jerking you are feeling is exactly what I had happen when I upgraded to the 1206AC-5211 controller. DO NOT power up or drive your cart until you change out the harness, as you could possibly damage the Brake Driver in that new controller. Good luck getting EZ-Go to admit to this issue. I wasted weeks on a runaround with them, and I ended up having to figure this one out on my own. I replaced the main harness with a new 35 pin Curtis controller harness and all is well. By the way, the first truly 1206AC-XXXX Curtis compatible harness that I was able to track down a part number for was part number 618950, Revision B. Alternately, you could upgrade your old Danaher harness by swapping out the controller connector to the Curtis 35 pin and adding a few wires to split off the motor encoder +5V (orange) and gnd (black) wires. If you decide to try this, send me a PM and I'll give you the connector pinouts that these two wires connect to in the Curtis connector. I mapped out all of the harness wires in my endeavor to solve this problem, so I have the list of wire colors and fuctions for each pin on that connector. The Service Manual only goes as far as giving you the wire colors and normal voltages at the connector. Since the voltages are identical, nothing suspicious seems to be happening. During POST (Power On Self-Test), the controller tests for each encoder seperately. Since power is applied from the throttle/brake circuit, it may not trip a fault, but it does trigger a software glitch that affects operation. I hope this helps.

Bob

virgildbradberryjr

Mr. Boyce
Can you please send me the Circuit that you have designed to Upgrade my Old Danaher Harness? I would greatly appreciate it. I already have a few 23 and 35 pin Amp connectors. Thank you, Sir

BobBoyce

It's not a circuit, it's a modification to your existing harness. If you want to do this, you need to follow the orange and black wires back into the harness, from the motor speed encoder connector, to where each of them is spliced to other orange and black wires in the harness. The green/black wire from the temperature sensor stays bonded to the black wire from the motor speed encoder. Once you follow the wires until they end where they bond to other orange and black wires, you would cut them loose, and tape up those cut ends where the wires were connected. You may need to extend these two wires a little to reach the controller connector.

The orange wire connects to the Curtis connector, pin 26.
The black wire with the green/black wire bonded connects to the Curtis connector, pin 7.
The rest of the wires will be moved over from the 23 pin Danaher connector to the 35 pin Curtis connector, in the following order.

Danaher move to Curtis wire color Function
pin 1 pin 1 red switched +48V
pin 2 pin 5 black CAN Bus, pin 4
pin 3 pin 15 orange throttle/brake encoder +5V
pin 4 pin 18 black throttle/brake encoder ground
pin 5 pin 31 blue/white motor speed encoder
pin 6 pin 32 white motor speed encoder
pin 7 pin 17 light green brake encoder output
pin 8 pin 20 black/white CAN Bus, pin 9
pin 9 pin 16 yellow throttle encoder output
pin 10 pin 2 black reverse buzzer -
pin 11 pin 30 grey SOC meter +0-5V out
pin 12 pin 22 green key switch, reverse
pin 13 pin 10 black tow switch
pin 14 not used grey resistor lead, not used
pin 15 pin 35 orange/red Can Bus, pin 5
pin 16 pin 8 pink temp sensor output
pin 17 pin 11 light blue charger receptacle
pin 18 pin 6 black solenoid coil -
pin 19 pin 9 light blue throttle switch
pin 20 pin 33 white key switch, forward
pin 21 not used purple/white resistor control, not used
pin 22 pin 4 purple brake lights
pin 23 pin 23 red/white CAN Bus, pin 3

One circuit left to move. The white wire from the EM brake connector runs to the brake switch. The other brake switch wire is red. Attach a wire to the white wire, and run it to the Curtis connector, pin 12. This applies the EM brake when the brake pedal is pressed beyond a set point.

I hope this helps.

Bob

virgildbradberryjr

Thank you, Sir... Thanks for taking time out of your day... for people of your quality are a rarity....