Dcs controller

Trentgoss

I have a 97 ezgo txt electric golf cart. I have recently installed a new controller, harness and tow maintenance switch. My issue is I'm only getting 4 volts coming out of the controller going to the motor. So the cart will barley move. I have 36 volts going to the controller. I've checked the batteries they are good. Put them under a load. Everything was fine. If I wire the harness as the drawing shows the cart will not do anything. If I jump out the solenoid. Everything works but I'm only getting 4 volts to the motor. I tested the solenoid as shown. Everything tested ok. I'm new to all this and I have no idea where to go now. Thanks in advance.

BGW

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JohnnieB

The first step is to get the battery pack fully charged. (36V is only about 50% charged for a 36V battery pack - should be 38.2V)

Next is to get the solenoid to click when the pedal is pushed with the cart wired per the attached schematic.

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When wired correctly (nothing jumped), you should have 38.2V on Pins 9 & 10 when Run/Tow is in Run.

If you get 38.2V on those two pins, check the voltage on Pin-6 while F/R is in either F or R . Should be 38.2V.

If that is good also, measure voltage on Pin-5 while keyswitch is ON and pedal is pressed. Should be 38.2V.

If the above voltages are correct and the solenoid does not click when pedal is pushed, either the solenoid is bad or the controller is bad.

Attached Images

DCS Schematic - Later type FNR.jpg (190.1 KB, 0 views)

Golf cart guy

how did you jump the solenoid?
So you changed all the parts and then it only ran slow?
What was the original problem that prompted changing all the parts?

scottyb

Agreed, snail pace operation could be controller safe mode prompted by outside problem like speed sensor signal. Also would helpful to know what control you are asking about.

Trentgoss

We bought the cart the controller was burnt up and the wiring harness was missing. The controller is a alltrax 24-48v 300 amp dcs. We bought the wiring harness to match. Everything was pretty much plug and play. After installing every thing we turned key on put it in forward position press pedal nothing would happen. No clicking from solenoid. Can take a wire from one small post on the solenoid to one of the large post on the solenoid. Then everything works. Only getting 4 volts out of the top of the controller. Ordered new diode solenoid and resistor today.

JohnnieB

The cart will run without the diode and resistor installed, but should be installed once it is running properly.

Sounds like you have either a DCX300 (user programmable) or a NCX300 (non-programmable) controller, which are plug-n-play for a Curtis 1206MX (stock DCS) controller, so the schematic and the test points I listed above are valid.

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Does the LED on the controller come on?
You have to have full battery pack voltage on Pins 6, 9 & 10 to power up the controller and illuminate the LED.

If so, how many times does it flash before going to steady green?

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FWIW: Here is the schematic from a DCX/NPX in a DCS cart, but is electrical same as schematic I posted earlier.

Attached Images

DCS with DCX or NCX.JPG (166.4 KB, 0 views)

Trentgoss

Same as you posted earlier.

Trentgoss

Yes the led will come on once I jump out the solenoid. Not around the cart right now to see how many times it blinks.

Trentgoss

Green led blinks 4 times.

JohnnieB

Okay, the controller powers up and it is programmed for the ITS type throttle your cart has.

Apparently, you are connecting a jumper wire from the solenoid's battery side large terminal to the solenoid's small (coil) terminal with three wires already connected to it. That bypasses the Run switch on the F/T assembly and the keyswitch, so something is amiss on that circuit and needs to be troubleshot and fixed, but the cart ought to run with jumper in place.

With the jumper wire on the solenoid installed, does the solenoid click when pedal is pushed? If not, the controller is not receiving full battery pack voltage from the battery pack, so the output will be very low.

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What is the voltage between the controller's B- and B+ terminals when pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click?
It should be the same as the voltage between the battery pack main positive and main negative terminals.

If it is, there are two possibilities causing the low voltage output from the controller.
1. Bad throttle signal to the controller.
2. Bad controller.

BTW: Where exactly are your test lead when you measure 4V out from the controller?