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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Unread 01-07-2017, 06:45 AM   #21
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Default Re: RXV fault and rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcalan View Post
Hi Bob/Usgicollector and all,

I started this morning checking the wiring hook ups as you mentioned on the last post Bob,( and all was correct).

I powered up the buggy and after a few seconds I managed to get reverse and forward working ,although it was very sluggish to start after prodding the brake pedal and then throttle pedal.
The power up sequence made the right noises as far as I can tell when keyed to N .
I have found switching the key off and then back on the cart will only run with selecting reverse first and then a push on the brake.
Reverse/forward did slowly start to work.
Although as I finished just now, I have checked some more connections and plugs the cart has deicided it will not run now, just some clicks from the EM Brake (which I replaced with a new one along with a new soleniod)so should be good ?

Having plugged in the hand held programmer I have readings as follows;
Current fault:HPD Sequencing Fault.
On History setting; Brake wiper, throttle wiper, controller over current and comms supervision.
I am assuming that as I had the cart running at last (although intermitant) the above faults are not terminal and can be resolved?

As I don't have the Curtis Tech Manual I am going to the Curtis web site to see if I can find. All that came with the programmer was a quick start guide.

Should you have any idea's on any of this lot I would be very grateful for your help, again!

Many thanks

Mcalan
The error code history can be ignored at this point. It is a new controller, so initial powerup testing by someone without a benchtop cart emulator does not provide inputs. That alone will create those error histories. The current error is your issue. If you mess with the pedals after powerup, an active HPD Sequencing Fault can clear and allow the cart to begin operating.

HPD (High Pedal Disable) Sequencing Fault - One or both pedals, throttle or brake, is not fully returning to upright position. OR... The wrong throttle or brake switch is installed. There are 2 switches to choose from, one with a longer plunger than the other. The proper switch to use depends upon the version of pedal is installed. I keep both types in stock so I can install the one required for the installed pedal. Also, throttle and brake encoders do not always normally start at a true zero. If the encoder reading is higher or lower than the default deadband setting allows, that can trip that error.

The first thing for you to check would be the switches. Use am ohmmeter and test the switch outputs, Both switches have seperate sets of normally open and normally closed outputs. The throttle switch is very sensitive, in that it changes state when you barely depress the pedal. The brake pedal changes states at about 60% pedal depressed. It's essentially to act as an emergency override and engage the motor brake if the regenerative braking fails. If these switches have been replaced, try to make sure that they were replaced with the correct switch for that pedal. I posted the part numbers in earlier posts, so did cgtech and others. I'll see if I can find them and post new pictures with the part numbers if you still need help.
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Unread 01-07-2017, 10:41 AM   #22
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Default Re: RXV fault and rebuild

Hi yet again Bob,

Thanks for yet another nugget of information.
If anyone else is going through this process(or about to) as a newbie to RXV's, I am sure they will find the whole experience somewhat of a challenge!

I am totally impressed in your case that knowledge you have on this type seemingly "off the top of your head" is truly astounding.

I wish I had that sort of retention to detail.

Suffice to say,I would be completely sunk without yours and the other experts help on this project.
A (continued) massive thank you for your time on the subject.

Regards

Mcalan
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Unread 01-08-2017, 05:54 AM   #23
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Default Re: RXV fault and rebuild

I found my part numbers list for the pedal switches. Here are the links for them on the shopezgo site. Look at what you have and make sure they are correct for your cart. E-Z-GO gives wrong part numbers a lot, and others here have had to re-order switches multiple times before getting what they needed for their cart. I'll not post pictures because there are pictures on their site.

https://shop.ezgo.com/products/Accel...al-Switch.html

https://shop.ezgo.com/products/Accel...ex-Switch.html

https://shop.ezgo.com/products/Brake...2540c-RXV.html

Bob
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Unread 01-08-2017, 09:53 AM   #24
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Default Re: RXV fault and rebuild

Hi Bob,

"Following on" from yesterday.
I did as you pointed out and checked pedal switches (Brake and Throttle) with a meter and and all appeared within limits.
I did however find with the that the pedal switch is/was very,very sensitive as you mentioned for on/off. (with the Hand held programmer).

I have cured this by sleeving the return spring (it seems a bit worn/week) where it rests on the casting with a piece off 1/4 inch fuel tube. All seems well and remains off 100% when the pedal is let go.

I did notice from the perameter page on the hand held, that the throttle setting went to 100% in"Forward" within a 1/2 inch of depressing the pedal. I have altered this to something like the same setting sweep as for Reverse.

I have still to look up the Manual for the hand held as yet but I wondered if you know of the approximate settings I can input for Brake /Throttle etc.(As it would be shipped from the factory)?
I only ask as there is still only very limited response from the motor.(It is now straining to move at all? The big thing is I feel it has to do with EM Brake not releasing???
I have checked the voltage in Run and Tow modes, and although I have confirmed the tow switch is sound I am getting 48 volts from the plug at the brake. The trouble shooting book is saying 12/18 volts?(in tow mode).

Either way the brake appears to not release properly, and switching to Tow or N the axle remains locked up. The power up sequence still seems to be ok but if you select Tow you can hear the solenoid "open" with the plug placed back in the brake unit?


Regards

Mcalan
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Unread 01-08-2017, 11:33 AM   #25
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Default Re: RXV fault and rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcalan View Post
Hi Bob,

"Following on" from yesterday.
I did as you pointed out and checked pedal switches (Brake and Throttle) with a meter and and all appeared within limits.
I did however find with the that the pedal switch is/was very,very sensitive as you mentioned for on/off. (with the Hand held programmer).

I have cured this by sleeving the return spring (it seems a bit worn/week) where it rests on the casting with a piece off 1/4 inch fuel tube. All seems well and remains off 100% when the pedal is let go.

I did notice from the perameter page on the hand held, that the throttle setting went to 100% in"Forward" within a 1/2 inch of depressing the pedal. I have altered this to something like the same setting sweep as for Reverse.

I have still to look up the Manual for the hand held as yet but I wondered if you know of the approximate settings I can input for Brake /Throttle etc.(As it would be shipped from the factory)?
I only ask as there is still only very limited response from the motor.(It is now straining to move at all? The big thing is I feel it has to do with EM Brake not releasing???
I have checked the voltage in Run and Tow modes, and although I have confirmed the tow switch is sound I am getting 48 volts from the plug at the brake. The trouble shooting book is saying 12/18 volts?(in tow mode).

Either way the brake appears to not release properly, and switching to Tow or N the axle remains locked up. The power up sequence still seems to be ok but if you select Tow you can hear the solenoid "open" with the plug placed back in the brake unit?


Regards

Mcalan
The motor brake should have less than 48 volts when the controller is trying to turn off the brake and it is plugged into the motor brake. In tow mode and unplugged from the motor brake, it should read the full 48 volts due to the lack of the coil load. If the motor brake is not releasing, then there may be an issue with the motor brake itself. There is a PWM setting for the motor brake, but by default it is usually set too high, which can cause undue heating of the motor brake coil. The controller can adjust the amount of braking current depending upon operating conditions. If it detects motor slip when you are supposed to be stopped, it will attempt to increase brake current to compensate. I noticed that this is not mentioned in the manual, but it is in the software. Using the handset, go into the Monitor tab, select Outputs in the menu, scroll down to EM Brake PWM and watch the PWM percentage to the right while you are testing the brake.

If you want to look at the fault counts, in the Monitor menu, scroll down to Fault Counters and press the right arrow to select. Write down any faults indicated and the number of faults. There should be 58 individual fault slots listed. The Curtis controller has excellent fault logging. If you need to find out when these faults occured, in the Monitor menu, scroll down to Fault Count HourMeter, press right arrow, and you will have the same list with the number of operating hours on the controller of when the last time that fault occured. By examining these, you can get an idea of when each and every fault occured, and hopefully the order of when they occured (different hourmeter times) in the log.

That was a good idea to tighten up the spring for a solid return. Some people add an external spring to pull the pedal fully up when the spring weakens. E-Z-GO tends to charge a lot for the pedal assembly and parts.

As for your throttle and brake encoders, the stock factory deadbands should be fine. If your settings were altered from stock, I can send you a factory default 1206AC-5211 file that you can load with the handset and you can use to reflash your controller back to factory stock. You will have to PM me with your controller serial number and the email address you want me to send the file to. I must configure the reflash file for your controller before I send it. You would load the file into the handset memory (File Manager tab) from your computer using a mini USB cable, or load it on an SD card and insert it into the handset in the covered slot to the left of the display. Be sure to delete the file from the handset before you return it. You would not want others to try using your file and corrupting their controller. Thank goodness you have that handset!

Bob
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Unread 01-09-2017, 09:19 AM   #26
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Default Re: RXV fault and rebuild

Hi Bob and thanks so much for all of that info.

I will digest what you have said and get back to you on this.

You are so right about having a programmer! If anyone else is following this thread, you would well advised to go this route.
As a "rooky" on carts I cannot see how you would ever be able to fix anything (RXV that is) without it.
Regards
Mcalan
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Unread 01-10-2017, 08:44 AM   #27
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Default Re: RXV fault and rebuild

Hi Bob / CG and everyone ou there,
Just to add to the mystery of this fault finding process, in the Trouble shoot guide (page 24) procedure item no 8 is a meter probe on the encoder wire. This tells you to expect close to 0 v while rotating back wheels.
I have a read out of 4.95 volts and the wheels /axle is locked up still?
This is starting me to wonder after all this time if the motor is kaput even though I have caried out the tests on pages 9 and 10 for over current and short circuit?
I am running out of options even with the hand held it is very confusing (for me at least)!
I am going to go through the "fault counts" on the hand held this evening in detail to see what that shows up.

regards

Mcalan
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Unread 01-10-2017, 08:48 AM   #28
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Default Re: RXV fault and rebuild

The encoder should show 64 on/off steps while turning motor.
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Unread 01-10-2017, 10:36 AM   #29
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Default Re: RXV fault and rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcalan View Post
Hi Bob / CG and everyone ou there,
Just to add to the mystery of this fault finding process, in the Trouble shoot guide (page 24) procedure item no 8 is a meter probe on the encoder wire. This tells you to expect close to 0 v while rotating back wheels.
I have a read out of 4.95 volts and the wheels /axle is locked up still?
This is starting me to wonder after all this time if the motor is kaput even though I have caried out the tests on pages 9 and 10 for over current and short circuit?
I am running out of options even with the hand held it is very confusing (for me at least)!
I am going to go through the "fault counts" on the hand held this evening in detail to see what that shows up.

regards

Mcalan
All that means is that the motor brake is locked up and is not allowing the motor to rotate. The encoder is not able to toggle on (5V) and off (0V) since the motor shaft is not able to move. We need to get to the bottom of why the motor brake is not releasing. This is why we must study each and every fault and hopefully we can determine the cause.
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Unread 01-11-2017, 05:46 AM   #30
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Default Re: RXV fault and rebuild

Hi Bob and all,
I am going to list here all the information I have gathered from the hand held readouts. I am only listing the content that gave a readout, anything that reads 0, I have left out.
From the Fault counter sub heading; Main contactor did not close 5,Brake wiper3,HPD Sequencing fault 4, Undervoltage cutback 34, controller overcurrent 11,Motor temp faults 1, Stall detected/Enconder Fault 14,EM Brake failed to set 8, Main coil missing 76, EM Brake test failed 8, Throttle zero check 1, Supervisors comms 1,

From the Fault counter Hour meter ; Main contactor did not close 0.4, Throttle wiper 0.3, Brake wiper 0.3 HPD Sequencing fault 0.4, Undervoltage cutback 0.3,Controller overcurrent 0.3, Motor temp fault 0.3, Stall detected/Enconder fail 0.4, E M Brake failed to set 0.4 , EM brake coil missing 0.3, Main coil missing 0.3, EM Brake test failed 0.4, Throttle zero check 0.4 , Supervisor comms 0.3 .
Under the Input heading ; Brake command reads 0-100% on depressing the brake pedal. On the Output heading; EM Brake PWM reads 0% on depressing the pedal.

I hope this makes some sense to those that have helped me so far?
As I write I am going to carry on "playing with the Hand Held" to see if I can find a pattern to track this fault down.

Thanks again .

Mcalan
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