Motor armature stuck on spline - removal question

Mike80023

I have read the posts about stuck motor, removing axle and dropping on end to jar loose the stuck motor, but I am not wanting to remove the axle. So has anyone tried to jack the armature off using the gear box to push against and a jig on the armature? Yep, it will destroy the old armature, but my question if is whether that would work? Is the attachment of the armature to the motor shaft solid enough to push against and thereby remove the motor from the spline shaft?

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

kgsc

The housing will probably crack if you do that and is very expensive to replace. Pull the axle. Disconnect the shocks, brake cables and the front and rear leaf spring bolts. Entire assembly will drop out.

Mike80023

Here's hoping the kroil does the trick and with a few blows breaks free... otherwise it is time to drop the rear end... you hit directly on my one concern, cracking the aluminum casting which would be bad. Looking for steel to jack against in the frame and not seeing a good point. Thanks for the feedback

JohnnieB

Sounds like you have removed the motor's end cap and case, so you now have only the armature attached to the differential input shaft.

If so, you can apply a bit of heat to the spline coupler. That will likely destroy the rubber bumper inside, but if you don't get too wild with the torch, you ought to be able to save the armature.

Also, the differential input shaft assemble is only held in place by a single snap-ring. Ends circled in attached picture, but may be at different degree of rotation on your cart.

If you can manage to get it out, the bearings, shaft and gear will come out and then you can work on getting the splines to break free without standing on your head to get into the cramped work-space.

Attached Images

IMG_0088-1200x900 - snap ring.jpg (336.5 KB, 0 views)

Mike80023

Yes I have the motor end cap off and do have decent access to the coupling. I will check into the pulling the c- clip. Heat had crossed my mind and I was wondering if applying heat to the coupling will damage any non-steel parts I n the gear box (if there are any) my guess was no?

toledo20

I just had this trouble from a flooded cart.
I used flat screw drivers and kept praying equally a lil at a time, when I had a gap I sprayed pb lubercation on shaft and let sit gor a few minutes and it eventually came off.
I guess I got lucky not to damage anything.

JohnnieB

There is a rubber O-ring (oil seal) behind the outermost bearing on the input shaft assembly, but it is in a groove in the differential housing, so there is little, if any, direct thermal pathway to the shaft that would be transferring heat into the differential.

There are other rubber O-rings in the differential, but the thermal pathway to them from the input shaft is a long and crooked one. Here is a copy of the Dana Axle service/parts manual.

As previously mentioned, there is a rubber spline bumper inside the coupler that will probably be damaged by the heat, but it ought to be replaced anyways.

Attached Files

DANA AXLE, 1988-95, 28148G01.pdf (3.93 MB, 0 views)

JohnnieB

My stock motor seized solid when a combination of heat and RPM exploded the armature and the back tires slid when I tried to tow cart, so I had to get it hauled home on a flatbed type wrecker.

They dropped it in front of my place and I needed to remove the motor to move it by hand. The motor would not separate from the differential far enough to spray Kroil on the coupler and the motor housing would not come off the armature, but once the motor was unbolted from the differential, it would spin and I could move the cart (after disconnecting all the cables).

The motor spins about 12.5 times each time the tires rotate once, so I towed the cart as slow as my riding mower would go, but it was a downhill trip to the garage. After a few feet, the cart had some strong vibrations, then we heard a clunk and the cart rolled smoothly after that.

Unlike the armature, the complete motor assembly isn't balanced and it started to wobble and eventually wobbled its way off the input shaft.

Of course, I don't recommend the spin method of motor removal because it is pretty rough on the input shaft bearings, axle housing and motor, but it was a pleasant surprise to see the motor sitting on the axle when we got it to the garage.

Mike80023

Handy to have the Dana Axle manual... thanks much

I was also planning on checking my local shop... I suspect they may have an easy way to remove like a self build jig with a slide hammer... maybe they will loan it if there is one

smokey tennis shoe

Once i had the same stuck situation. I tried prying with a tire spoon, and damaged the copper coils on the armature, so bad that they would not accept it as a core, and i had to pay full price for not having a motor core. So i would be very leary about prying anything in there.

Since then, i have tried davids trick of removing the exle and dropping it, and it has worked every time. It really is not much work at all to remove the entire axle.