RXV Loom

mcalan

Hi To all yet again,

Having nearly completed my rebuild .

I have, frame up painted renewed fixings cleaned everything including the original loom which looks in great condition and new painted body.

I have a buddy bringing me a new set of alloys and tires back from Texas (lucky for me he drives a private jet,so can bung them in the back on the way home to the UK after xmas).
Anyway back to why I am on here again.
All I have to do now is just install my nice new Curtis 1206 controller!

I am still trying to track down a loom as mentioned by Bob Boyce in other posts (number 618950 revision B). Is there anyone out there in "Buggyland "that can point me to a supplier? As mentioned by "another" in an earlier post this seems a hard part to track down?
As an alternative,
I have been on to Howlands Technology to get a 35 pin plug and pins , and modify the loom myself (again as described by Bob).

The kind Lady at Howlands tells me I would need an expensive crimping tool to form the pins? Has anyone got any ideas on this or a way round?

Just for the record I would not have got this far without the great input from the likes of Bob and CGtech in particular and others, many thanks to you.

The way things are going I am tempted to see if I could get on a training an Ezgo training course for RXV's as they are so complex!
Thanks in advance for any help.

Mcalan

BGW

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BobBoyce

You can use an inexpensive crimp tool for automotive connectors in the 20 - 22 guage range. Fairly common at auto parts stores in the electrical department. Do not use the rounded sort for butt splices, ect. Look at the close-up photo of the crimp tool head to see detail of the crimp slot shape.

Most of the changes do not require any crimping of new connectors, mostly the moving, cutting, and splicing of existing wires. The only new wires needed will be for adding a Curtis programming socket for controller pins 25 (Handset +15V), 28 (TXD from controller), 29 (RXD from controller), and 34 (Handset/Signal Ground).

Here are some photos of the tool, 35 pin connector, contacts, and labels with part numbers from Mouser Electronics.

Attached Images

	35PinConnector1.jpg (304.5 KB, 0 views)
	35PinConnector2.jpg (157.2 KB, 0 views)
	CrimpTool1.jpg (320.5 KB, 0 views)
	CrimpTool2.jpg (260.7 KB, 0 views)

BobBoyce

Here's a couple of photos of the splices involved.

Attached Images

	Splices1.jpg (97.1 KB, 0 views)
	Splices2.jpg (123.1 KB, 0 views)

mcalan

Hi Bob,
Those crimp pliers I have in my box . Thanks for the pictures and explanation ,it is a massive help to me.
I will go back to Howlands and order now.
IF you ever swing by Burlington Ontario, beers are on me all evening.
Many thanks again!

BobBoyce

I just discovered that the bag of 100 terminals contains the wrong terminals. I'll have to wait until monday to call Mouser and find out what happened.

BobBoyce

Here's a comparison photo.

On the left, the correct terminals that are attached to an E-Z-GO Curtis programming harness that connects to controller connector pins 25, 28, 29, and 34. Each has a narrowed neck for the connector terminal locks to engage.

On the right, the terminals shipped by Mouser. No narrowed neck for the connector terminal locks to engage. The terminals are also larger in diameter and will not fit in the holes.

I did not closely examine the terminals when they arrived. I noticed when I was ready to actually use some.

Attached Images

TerminalComparison.jpg (201.1 KB, 0 views)

smokey tennis shoe

Bob, are you going to try to use those pins, or will you get a different pin?

If you do get a different pin, and you are happy with it, will you please post the new part number here for us to see? Thanks

BobBoyce

The pins they shipped will not fit, so they will not get used.

Well, the P/N (Part Number) is correct. If you look at the image of the TE Connectivity P/N 770854-1 (Mouser P/N 571-7708541) in the .pdf file for the 35 pin connector, it exactly matches the terminals on the left in my photo above. That is always what I use to find the proper part number for terminals or mating connectors to fit a given connector. My last order was placed through Newark Electronics, and the TE Connectivity part numbers are identical. Mouser just made a mistake, and now it will be up to them to find out how the wrong terminals ended up getting sent out to me. I already sent them a written notice with comparison photos and advised them to check their inventory and compare to the parts specifications and images listed for that part. I chose to order from Mouser this time because the overall price with shipping is lower than Newark. I will definitely consider this mistake on behalf of Mouser next time I need to place an order. My last Mouser order prior to this also had a mistake, which I had to pay for the replacement in advance, and then be credited a month or so later when they finally credited me for the return.

Bob

mcalan

Hello again Bob and others.
I am wondering if I can hook up a female molex plug/lead, to connect direct from the controller to the male 4 pin molex connector from the programmer?

You have kindly listed the pin out from the controller(pins 25/28/29 and 34)and I wonder if you may have or know the corresponding pin out from the programmer lead.

I am just trying to keep things simple and cannot see the need for programming lead/socket from curtis. I stand ready to be corrected on this though?
Any thoughts???

Many thanks

Mcalan

BobBoyce

I do the same thing. I only use the factory E-Z-GO connector adapter for stock harnesses. When I convert a harness I use the 4 pin Mini-Fit Jr connector. Here is the thread/post with the info you need, with photos of a simple benchtop programming cable I made with a cheap ATX computer power extender jumper cable. In an earlier post in that thread I gave the part numbers and sources for the connectors and pins. The pin numbers on the Mini-Fit Jr should be marked in tiny numbers on the connectors themselves.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1340121

Bob