2001 TXT PDS 1206MX Controller

chrisk

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone could help me with my 1206 controller. I need to know how to test it. Ive already checked all the switches and tested the motor. The cart will not move at all and the solenoid wont actuate (click) but the wires and solenoid are good. I hate to buy a new or rebuilt Controller without knowing for sure thats the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

JohnnieB

Welcome to BGW!

Check the smaller of the three wires coming out of the backside of the charge receptacle. (See attached picture)

Unless the charger is plugged into it, there ought to be battery pack voltage on it, which is 38.2V when batteries are fully charged.

If that is good, check the voltage on J1 Pins 4 & 5 on the controller. They should both have battery pack voltage whenever the charger is not plugged in.

If they do, check for battery pack voltage on all four pins of J3. (See attached schematic with solenoid activation circuit highlighted.)

If all the above is good, we will have to troubleshoot further.

BTW. You can download the Owner, Service and Parts manuals for your cart here: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html
They're the top three PDF files.

Attached Images

	Charger receptacle - In-line Connector.jpg (127.6 KB, 0 views)
	Wiring Diagram - PDS - Solenoid activation traced.jpg (69.7 KB, 0 views)

chrisk

Thanks JohnnieB! I have 38.6v at the Batter Pack. I also have Pack voltage on J1 pins 4 &5. J3 also have Pack voltage on all four pins. Next step plz? I have the schematic but i'm a little rusty on reading them. I also printed out the Tech/Repair Manual.

JohnnieB

The controller actuates the solenoid in a two step process. First it puts B+ on the yellow wire to the coil and then puts B- on the blue wire to actuate it.

With Run/Tow in Run, Keyswitch ON and F/R in either F or R, you should have B+ (battery pack voltage) on J1 Pin-7. At this point, before pedal is pressed, you will also have B+ on J1 Pin-6 if the solenoid coil is intact. (It is feeding though the coil from the yellow wire on J1 Pin-7.)

When the pedal is pressed, the voltage on j1 Pin-6 ought to drop to Zero and the solenoid ought to actuate. If it doesn't, either the pedal switch is bad or the controller is bad.

The pedal switch connects to J4 Pins 1 & 2. When pedal is pushed, both should have battery pack voltage on them.

chrisk

Thanks..... I'll go check it now.

chrisk

Ok JohnnieB I have no power at at to J1 pin 7 so obviously there is nothing at 6 either. Key was on in Run and i tried F and R. Zilch. Bad Controller?

scottyb

Yes, Bad controller. Replace with XCT48400PDS and 200a HD solenoid. You will like the 35% torque increase and speed up to 23 mph on stock size tires.

chrisk

Thanks for the reply. Whats the cost for this? This golf cart is for company use and i'm sure they want to spend the least amount of money possible. I found some places the would send a rebuilt controller plus your core for 180. I have never really messed with much DC stuff so any help and places to purchase parts would help a lot. I'm glad we finally got it narrowed down though, I was starting to get a headache.

scottyb

There is no re-manufacturing going on at these places. Not in the true sense as we see with a re-manufactured engine. These are repair stations where the controllers are patched up and sent on their way, it may make it to the end of the warranty before the next component in it dies... after 3 repairs you spent as much in parts and more in time than installing a new 2 yr warranty controller.

chrisk

Wheres the best place to purchase the XCT48400PDS Controller and 200a HD solenoid. Thanks for the info. Nice to know about the reman junk. lol Not going that route.