EZGO TXT Non-PDS Help/Questions

JoeBleaux

First, I'm new to the group and have a new-to-me 2006 TXT non-PDS cart. It appears that it left the factory with a wire bed on the back, i.e., it was never a "golf cart." The history I got is that it was an ex-golf club utility cart, but it doesn't look like it got used by grounds maintenance or other "service use" because of its generally good condition. I am reasonably familiar with the earlier Marathon EZGOs and the gas Club Cars, but not much experience with these. I have fairly good mechanical ability and knowledge, just not with these. This is my first post, so I am attempting to give as much info as I can - sorry if it is TMI <grin>.

The cart in question:

The issue is a "solenoid clicks, cart doesn't go" problem. As far as I can tell, it's a bone-stock (except for two possible things - see below), fairly well-cared for cart - even the factory-printed labels on the high-current cables (i.e., A1, A2, S1, S2 at the motor, B+, B-, M- at the controller lugs, BL+, BL- at the batteries) is clear and readable, so I assume the wiring is right and original. The batteries are nearly-new Trojan T105s and the pack voltage is 38.5-39 volts when fully charged. I tested the motor and it works. I tested the solenoid (it has the 250 ohm resistor on the contactor/large terminals and a diode on the small/activation terminals) and when the controller side is disconnected from the controller, it passes the pack voltage as it should when the pedal is pressed. The throttle circuit tests OK. The controller, however, seems to the issue. I have some questions that my research hasn't answered:

1. I see plenty of controllers like mine, which I _THINK_ is what is called variously, "a five pin," "a three lug," "a Curtis 1206" and maybe a couple of other terms. It has 3 large lugs labeled B+, B- and M- and there is an "A2" molded in the case where a lug could be, but there is no hole or lug. The small connector is the 4-pin/space/1-pin with a "molex" with 4 wires (black, white, orange and red). I get minimal voltage at M- under any circumstances, but it does vary with pedal position - like 1 volt to basically no voltage as the pedal is pressed. I assume there are capacitors in the controller because voltage remains even with power completely removed from it. HOWEVER, all of the schematics I can find show an A2 terminal going to the C terminal on the Fwd-Rev control. Also, the small red wire in the charger connector is internally-wired (and it appears factory) to the black cable and there is no reed switch. Other than that, that schematic is accurate for this cart. If someone has the schematic specific for this set-up, I'd appreciate it (or a simple confirmation that the other schematic is "close enough").

2. If this tells anyone anything, my model/serial plate is not in the glove box area (nor was a riveted plate ever there - no holes), there is a serial-only label below the charger connector and a complete model, serial, date code, etc. label right above the rear battery area.

3. If the controller needs to be replaced, I'd appreciate thoughts on what to do. I don't care about max speed - the cart will be used as a "get around the property" cart (on flat grass, no mudding, in good weather). It seems I can get a direct stock replacement for around 75-125.00, used or rebuilt, so that seems the reasonable solution, but I'm open to thoughts/ideas, too.

Anyway, thanks in advance for any help and if I forgot to give needed info, let me know.

BGW

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JoeBleaux

Forgot to add - the Fwd-Rev control works properly and is in good condition - again, all of the factory-stamped labels (A, B, C, D) are plainly readable on the cables and the wiring matches the previously-mentioned "close" schematic, so presumably, the wiring is properly connected.

yurtle

I have a stock series controller, with ITS throttle. If yours is bad, PM me.

JoeBleaux

I don't think I have PM rights yet (I'm a new member) - can you PM me with a email addy or better yet, a phone number?

yurtle

I tried to PM you, but that wasn't an option.

You still have some troubleshooting to do, and need to confirm my controller will work with your cart, but sounds like it will. TXT, non-PDS sounds like a series, but we need to be sure.

I had a solenoid that would click, but the contacts inside were bad, so nothing went to the motor.

Others will chime in with troubleshooting tips. It is Sunday, and folks here live on both coasts, so time difference.

I'll post my email address if you decide you need it, before you get PM rights.

cruisinkruty

when in doubt,replace the solenoid...I have seen far too many that click but have severly corroded contacts inside and not function

yurtle

Best to test first. Don't wanna be a shade-tree "Volkswagen" mechanic - just replace parts until it works. That gets expensive, and doesn't help you develop troubleshooting skills.

JohnnieB

You said the solenoid clicks, so the problem is in the high current circuit.

Jack rear wheel off ground and put on jackstands so the half ton cart doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over someone or something.

Connect your DVM between the B- and M- terminals on controller.
Press pedal just far enough to make solenoid click and you should read FULL battery pack voltage.

If you don't there is an open or excessive resistance somewhere in the high current circuit, which is highlighted on the attached schematic.

Go looking for the battery pack voltage and when you find it, the problem is between there and last place that didn't have it.
----------

If you do get full pack voltage, press pedal to floor slowly and voltage between B- and M- should smoothly decrease to zero or near zero.

If it doesn't either controller or throttle input to controller is bad.

Attached Images

Wiring Diagram - Series- No A2 -Hi-Current traced.JPG (57.9 KB, 0 views)

yurtle

The first thing I would do is to follow the wire loom (corrugated plastic wire protective cover) that runs from the throttle box to a 4 pin Molex connector, that goes to the wiring harness. This is a fairly common problematic connection. If the solenoid clicks, but either of the two wires from the ITS have a bad connection, the controller will not put out any power to the motor.

Is your forward, neutral, reverse (FNR) switch on the dash or a lever near your right leg? If it's the latter, you could have a bad FNR, or any of half a dozen other possibilities.

There are two circuits in a buggy. One is the low current circuit (small wires), which goes through many switches, but seems to work if your solenoid clicks.

The second circuit is the high amperage power circuit (thick cables), which is where you need to focus, with the exception of the Molex connector, which may not be telling your controller to go.

yurtle

Also, go to the stickies and see what type drive system you have. I have been under the assumption that you had a series, based on your first post.

The following is a link http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...en-system.html

Stickies are a great place to start studying wiring diagrams, and troubleshooting tips.