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Unread 03-08-2017, 03:17 PM   #1
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Default 36-48v upgrade and reducer setup

So Scottyb hooked me up with new battery cables, resistor, and a dpi charger for my 48v upgrade. I've already got the heavy duty solenoid and the super duty contactor to go with my 48500, so I'm all good there.

My question has to do with my voltage reducer, and specifically, the way I wired it. I wanted to be able to shut it off outside of the key, so it's controlled by one of the push button switches on my dash. The switches I used were more pretty than beefy, so I ran the reducer supply through a relay. With my 36v setup, I got the 12v for the relay from batteries 5, 6. Once I drop in the 8's, where do I get the 12v for the relay? Will 16v kill it? ( I'll have to find the specs again, but I know it was a heavier duty relay, as I figured I needed something beefy for all of the accessories.) can I run some sort of resistor, so that the relay only sees 12 of the 16v?

2001 series txt, currently at 36v

Thanks
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Unread 03-09-2017, 11:50 AM   #2
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Default Re: 36-48v upgrade and reducer setup

Measure the amp draw of the relay coil in the existing setup, then use Ohm's law to figure out the Ohmic value of the resistor needed.

IE: If the relay coil draws 1A at 12V, you'll need a 4Ω resistor to drop the 4V needed to bring 16V down to 12V.
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Unread 03-09-2017, 12:04 PM   #3
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Default Re: 36-48v upgrade and reducer setup

The best option is to use a 48v relay:
Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?
Your dashboard switch would take the place of the "key switch" in the diagram.

The only thing you need to worry about is if the switch has an integrated light.
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Unread 03-09-2017, 01:48 PM   #4
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Default Re: 36-48v upgrade and reducer setup

Awesome, I was hoping you two would respond.

Sergio, the link you provided was one of the ones I used to figure out how to wire it initially. Thank you for that.

The switch I'm using is lighted, but I have them all setup to illuminate only when pushed. That being said, I think the light for that particular switch was tapped into the 12v that went through the switch and to the relay, which means the led in that switch would be getting 16v, as well as the relay if I don't use a resistor??I'm going to have to get back in there and check, but would it have been possible to have gotten the 12v for the light on the switch from the 12v from the reducer?

Like I said earlier, I don't remember the exact specs for the relay, but I am pretty sure it was rated at least 48v, as I was concerned with it being able to pass all of the potential draw from the reducer.

So I can better understand, when we're talking about the capabilities of switches, relays, etc, it's actually the amp load that we need to be concerned with, correct? And, to what Sergio was referencing regarding the light in the switch, is it most likely that 16v would fry that light, if not the switch itself? The light in the switch is led, if that is at all a factor.

Thanks again guys.
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Unread 03-09-2017, 02:36 PM   #5
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Default Re: 36-48v upgrade and reducer setup

Nothing like a Direct Connection to the Direct Current hotline. That's (DC>DC)
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Unread 03-09-2017, 02:46 PM   #6
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Default Re: 36-48v upgrade and reducer setup

Switch and relay contacts will operate over a fairly wide range of voltages. The voltage rating is the arc-over voltage. Once the contacts are closed, it is the contact surface area that determine their amp rating.

On the other hand, incandescent light bulbs, relay coils and some LED bulbs are voltage specific.
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Unread 03-09-2017, 03:28 PM   #7
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Default Re: 36-48v upgrade and reducer setup

orangeman6, just to be clear the 48v I am talking about is the voltage for the relay coil, not the contacts.

It looks like You are using a regular 12v relay coil and tapping some of the batteries, it would be better to just use the pack voltage to activate the relay.

Can you post a link to the switches you are using?

If the switch has separate terminals for the light, you can power the light from the 12v output of the converter while the switch contacts operate the 48v side of the relay coil.

The 48v relay only uses 20ma for the coil, so any switch will work.
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Unread 03-14-2017, 02:21 PM   #8
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Default Re: 36-48v upgrade and reducer setup

Thanks again for the responses, guys. The wife had some things for me to do and I was waiting to hear back about the specs on my push button switches, so I haven't had a chance to do anything more. Unfortunately, the "tech support" of the supplier had no info, as far as specs on the switches.

Sergio, I understand now that you were talking about the relay coil at 48v and not the contacts. I was really hoping to not have to do it that way, as Id like to avoid that much re-wiring. The switch does have separate terminals for the light, so all good there with powering that with the reducer.

I would like to try and go the resistor route if we think 8v will not energize the relay coil and 16v will fry it. I tried measuring the current draw of the relay coil but couldn't produce a number. I'm definitely no dvm expert, and must be doing something wrong, even after following the directions. I assumed I could probe the contacts, with the relay energized, (polarity observed) for the coil and get a number, but maybe Im wrong?

Attached is a picture of my dvm. I had it set to the 200m, but got nothing from the other settings either.
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File Type: jpg dvm.jpg (135.6 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 03-14-2017, 02:42 PM   #9
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Default Re: 36-48v upgrade and reducer setup

You are connecting the meter inline [in series], with relay coil right?
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Unread 03-14-2017, 02:45 PM   #10
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Default Re: 36-48v upgrade and reducer setup

First remove the wires from the relay coil and measure the resistance of the coil itself.

That will give you a pretty good idea of the current that would be required @ 12v.

If the relay coil measures 100Ω, you will need 120mA @ 12v (12v/100Ω) or 160mA @16v.

To measure the actual current, your meter has to be in series with one the coil wires.

You can disconnect the positive wire from the relay coil and put your meter in series with the wire (between the wire and the relay terminal where the wire was connected).

If your resistance measurement is less than 100Ω, move the meter red probe to the 10A socket on the meter and set the meter to 10A.
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