Diagnose Curtis 1206 Controller

mcmayber

I'm no expert, but I don't this this B- terminal on the ac controller is supposed to look like this. So question is; how do I either ensure this was the issue and/or fix the problem?

I original thought my issue was a return spring on my accel pedal that broke, but now after digging and finding this burnt post on the B- terminal of the controller I think I found the reason the cart wouldn't move. Batteries are charged, solenoid is good. I omhed out the switches on the accelerator pedal and they look to functioning correctly

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BGW

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usgicollector

Yes that doesn't look good. Do you have access to a Curtis programmer?

mcmayber

I do not. Is that something the local golf cart dealer/repair shop could do?

usgicollector

If your in Southwest Florida I can help you out. If not a dealer can check it out for you.

cgtech

That looks like careless handling of live wires to me. Not a sign of "controller let the smoke out".

BobBoyce

I agree. Diagnostics should be done on the controller itself to be sure that no damage was done to the inverter outputs. They would not arc like that if a 48V DC line hit them due to isolation, it would just take out the FETs.

Where are you located mcmayber? I'm traveling now and have my RXV tools and parts with me. I only have cellphone for internet so not on often. Maybe only once a day for this site. I get my email though if someone alerts me. I have a national security event scheduled early today so I may be out of touch for most of the day.

Bob

mcmayber

I'm located in Charlotte, NC.

mcmayber

You can email me directly if you want. mcmayber@gmail.com

BobBoyce

That is not far from where I am. I'm in Candor NC currently.

BobBoyce

Just wanted to give everyone an update.

Ran diagnostics on his RXV and there was a list of error codes. Several were old, but there were a series of errors related to the throttle/brake encoders and switches. Also, the motor temperature sensor was stuck at reading 0C. Looked at when the errors occured and focused on the newest ones. Cleared the old codes and retested. Tried a few new switches at the pedals and actuation of those switches did not toggle the corresponding inputs on the controller. We identified the wire that had been shorted to the controller due to matching burns on the wire end lug, it was the wire from the + end of the 48V battery pack to the battery end of the main solenoid!

The way things were going, I suspected the controller had been damaged, so we swapped out that controller for a brand new one that I had bought from Eddie on eBay. Problem solved.

Just so everyone knows, Eddie has raised his prices on the RXV controllers again. Last I had checked, they were at $475 + $25 shipping. He relisted for $575 + $25 shipping since then.

Looks like I won't be buying new controllers from Eddie for performing diagnostics anymore, too rich for my budget

Bob