36v marathon new parts electrical dummy

Racerjoe

I have a 1992 marathon 36v series cart.
It just quit running one day and when I press the pedal I get a few very small jerks. I figured it may be brushes so I pulled the motor and in the process broke the S2 post. Bought new D&D replacement motor. I put it in and still sane thing. I'm knee deep in it now so I went ahead and bought controller (made in China) and solenoid (and the resistor and diode) Still same thing. (Replaced the "pot" switch or box whatever it is called last year so it is fairly new)

Don't know crap about wiring. I read many posts on here and see the wiring diagrams but much of what you guys say goes over my head. Based on wiring diagrams mine is wired correctly. One thing that does baffle me is a sticker on th side of new motor telling you to jump from one post to another and connect the other two to + and - and to reverse for CCW rotation???? ( will have to go look to see which onesAny one out there willing to help walk a dummy through checking and trouble shooting this?

Where I am right now
1) waiting on capacitor to be delivered that goes on the controller. Not sure what it does but have just read a post that says it does not need it to run.
2) jumped A2 to S2 and connected 12v to A1 and S1 and the motor runs.

3) ?

BGW

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scottyb

It sounds like ...... you may have a bad battery

Racerjoe

I am showing 33 volts. One battery is at 3v and the rest are 6 volts. That would not create that would it????

kernal

Yes. Your battery pack is way to low and one or maybe all are dead. Your symptoms are indicative of discharged batteries. Charge pack completely first and take individual and pack voltage readings ~ 12 hours after charger turns off. This is the first step.

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gornoman

Sure would.

Racerjoe

Remember I said I was electronic stupid so bear with me. Am I reading this correctly that (6) 6 volt batteries should be showing 18.20 volts at 100% charge? And that each individual 6 volt battery should be showing 6.37 volts at 100% charge? I always figured that 36 volts would be absolutely max you would get out of perfect set of batteries..... I will go test them now and let you know.

mgray70

That is s common mistake that many people believe about batteries. 38.2 is a fully charged pack. 33v is completely dead. Unfortunately it caused you to replace about everything in the cart except the batteries.

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Racerjoe

Something has to be wired wrong somehow.


Batteries are:
3.56
6.07
6.10
6.10
6.05
6.06

Checking the entire group I get 34.0

Key off - solenoid shows 26.0 volts on the cable that is connected to the B+ terminal on the controller. On the other solinoid post that connects to the BL+ cable Gotham connects to the battery right off of the switch i am showing 27.9 volts.

I plugged up the charger and it just buzzed as usual (maybe a little louder) but the amp netter on it won't come up showing how much it is doing like it usually does. It just stays on zero.


Not keep in mind I was driving the cart when it simply stopped. It did not slow diwn as in low batteries. But you guys are the experts and I am going with whatever you suggest. Also batteries are about 2 years old. The charger and bother sides of solinoid have be thinking something is off with the wiring and it is possible that I screwed something up. I thought I had pics of all wiring before I took any wires loose but I can't find them they were evidently deleted ......



Thank you for ANY suggestions. I feel it is close and something simple but I'm at a loss

Racerjoe

I think the batteries would be higher. It they have not been charged recently. I think that the 3 volt one is bad but the others should come. Back up once charged. Not sure what is going on with the charger though. It has. Ever done this before.

We are headed to the lake in the morning and use this thing a ton at the lake as I can't get around very well. Should I go and buy a battery for the one with 3 volts (could that actually cause what I mentioned as the symptoms and make the charger act like this?)

yurtle

One battery is COMPLETELY dead. The others are also dead, if your readings were taken 12 hours after charging completely finished. Wiring can not cause this. Your completely dead battery likely has one or more bad cells.