EZ-GO no go - solenoid not clicking - where do I start?

quickbiscuit

Guys, I'm not very experienced in testing/diagnosing issues with these carts, so please bear with me. I do follow instructions well and am good with a wrench, but this electrical stuff takes all I've got sometimes.

2009 EZ-GO MPT1000 48 volt. I have the Forward/Reverse switch on the dash (no neutral). That makes this a Sepex PDS cart, correct?

Cart stopped working while I was gone over the weekend. Over the last couple of weeks the cart has "stumbled" a couple of times on initial take off - solenoid would quickly cycle a few times then run fine. Now there is no solenoid clicking and the cart won't go.

I had one battery terminal with some corrosion. Cleaned that up but no help.

I have a multimeter if needed for testing but will need some plain English instructions on what to do with it.

Where do I begin? Thank you for the help!!

BGW

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ARKSoft84

Start here:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...agnostics.html

Also take a digital volt meter and test each battery and total pack voltage and post these results.

quickbiscuit

Each battery 6.20+. Total pack 50.0. Is it strange that my battery meter on the dash shows less than 50%?

quickbiscuit

Ok, the voltage at the battery side of the solenoid's large post is 50.0 - same as total pack. But when I check the controller side, it reads 11.35. So this means the "resistor" is faulty? What/where is the resistor, and where do I get a replacement?

Thank you!

ARKSoft84

I'm far from a professional on these types of things. I suppose the next step would be to try to jump the solenoid (connect power from one side to the other) Probably best to have the cart on jack stands and have it braced.

If the motor turns then you would know that the solenoid is bad.

Honestly though - you may want to wait until someone else chimes in.

This is the procedure I found through searching:

Testing of the EZGO ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - SERIES & PDS (NON DCS)
ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.
These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are clean and tight.
PLACE THE REAR OF THE CART SECURELY ON BLOCKS OR JACK STANDS FOR SAFETY
Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will on the post for the rest of the testing procedures) Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) battery post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage and the amount of POWER TO THE CONTROLLER -
NOW, Key switch ON, gear selector in FORWARD, Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).
Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty. If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

quickbiscuit

The test you copied above is what I did to get my results that I posted last night. The test shows my resistor is faulty, which I'm assuming is something that can be replaced separately from the solenoid. When I google the resistor, most of what I see is a jumper between the large posts. I don't currently have anything like that on top of my solenoid.

I need to know if this is my problem and where I can get the part(s) to replace.

kgsc

The resistor is there to keep the solenoid contacts from spiking when it closes. It is not required for operation. If you still have the reverse buzzer does it still work ? If yes you do and yes it does the controller has main power. If the buzzer is connected and it is working put the cart in diagnostic mode and see what beeps you get. Key off, switch from N to Reverse 5 times returning to N. You should hear 1-4 beeps indicating which mode it is in. When you try to go it should give you some beep codes

And after I have said all this it occurred to me you have a 48 volt cart with a different controller than the standard PDS so you won't get the beep codes.. Whoops

Can you identify the controller ?

quickbiscuit

Took a couple days to repair the 24 pin molex plug going into the controller. I had some corrosion on several terminals and one pin was completely broken I think. Ordered new plug, mini fit jr crimp terminals, and a $50 tool to properly crimp the new terminals. Just buttoned all that up hoping that it might be my problem, but it made no difference at all. :(

My controller is a Sepex 1264. I'm getting a 5,2 code on the status light. Solenoid still not clicking. Getting a low reading on the controller side of the solenoid (~13v).

Where do I go from here? I hope someone can help. Thank you...

radioman

I will try to help you. First off the resistor will not keep your cart from running. To check it disconnect one end of it and measure its value in ohms (unit of resistance) using the RX1 or RX100 scales. In fact since you have a voltage difference across it may be warm to the touch would indicate it is ok. The low voltage on the controller side is not a good sign if the resistor is good. The resistor is there to keep the capacitors in the controller charged so the solenoid contacts will not go splat when they close with a sudden inrush of current. Typical resistor values are 200-500 ohms. Sometimes the value is printed on the resistor. Once we determine the resistor is good or bad we will go from there. While you got it loose look at your dash voltage indicator that is reading low.

kgsc

Well a 5,2 is a missing contactor on a 1268 Curtis which means bad solenoid. And again, your cart may have never had a resistor.