Solenoid clicks but no go

drmcurry

My first post...embarrassed that I really screwed up.
2012 RXV 48v standard (per the serial number lookup). Brand new batteries...made the mistake of trying to connect extra USB port and 12v receptical by connecting to same power wire from key switch that goes to my power meter. Thereafter, no go! Solenoid clicks when I first turn the key, reverse buzzer comes on, but no click when stepping on accelerator pedal. The power meter lights up but shows 0% even tho the batteries checkout with a voltmeter. Already tried a new solenoid and checked all the fuses I can find. Doesn't have a Reed switch. I've done as much of the trouble shooting I understand to do from various sources. No luck. My suspicion is the control box got fried but don't understand why I'd get power to the battery meter but no readable charge. I've since purchased voltage reducer for the USB port but don't even want to install it for awhile...just want my golf cart back. Any suggestions about what part to replace first before I take it back to the expensive golf cart repairman?

BGW

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BobBoyce

If you're lucky, you only killed the controller. If not, then you killed not only the controller, but every encoder and sensor that runs on the 5V power supply from the controller. The RXV is not like any other E-Z-GO cart. It's a computer on wheels. There are 5V and 48V wires in the same socket, and it's so easy to short the 48V to the 5V just be probing with a meter. You won't even see a spark most of the time, it just kills it.

Remove the cover over the controller and tell us what color the aluminum shield over the resistor coil behind the controller is, black or bare aluminum.

Bob

drmcurry

Thanks for your reply. I'm feeling a little sick right now, but I'll try to do that today

drmcurry

I'll try to send pics but not sure if they are coming through

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drmcurry

Your question about black vs aluminum.... looks aluminum to me. How does this affect your answer?

usgicollector

You have a Danaher controller. Black=Curtis Silver=Danaher...

drmcurry

Is there a way for me to test it myself? I don't see any char or melted parts.

usgicollector

You got another RXV that is running to do a switch? Only other way is to send it in for a checkup.

drmcurry

Thanks so much for the info. I'm almost to the point of buying a rebuilt controller and putting it in since I've already removed the controller for pictures.

BobBoyce

Thereis no such thing as a rebuilt controller, only a repaired controller. Opening the controller will not show anything burned, the damage is internal to the microcontroller and other chips. If it were a high current crossover, then you might see physical damage. And you would have seen a heavy arc. These sort of accidents don't leave visible signs.

Opening the controller (breaking the seal) raises a red flag to anyone you might send the controller to for repair. That indicates that you may open the replacement, which tends to make repair shops not offer a warranty.

If I were you, I would try to find a replacement Danaher controller first because repaired controllers do not tend to last, if they even work work 100%. Repaired controllers only have to pass a diagnostics check, and not everything is tested during diagnostics. Especially with Danaher controllers, because they combine many systems into a few simple tests (less pins) as compared to the newer Curtis controllers.

I have written a few posts on Danaher to Curtis controller conversions, in case you cannot find a Danaher controller. They were discontinued in early 2012.

Bob