Replacing Motor - Quick Question

Goliath

Just got my D&D motor (it's friggin' huge) and see 3 small bolts holding the stock motor in place.

It's '92 Marathon (series).

1) Is there a fourth bolt inside the diff/drive unit and, if so, does the whole unit get split?

2) Could I replace the bolts with stainless, or do I need to use grade 3 or 4?

Thanks!

BGW

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JohnnieB

1. The motor is held on with three bolts. The fourth hole on motor allow you to position the cable connections at different angles. Also, the mounting flange on the differential has several holes, but only three are used.

2. Stainless would probably be okay. There really isn't much stress on the bolts, you'll see what I mean when you get the motor off. All I did when I replaced the motor was used some anti-seize on the threads of the OEM bolts. (Also use some on the splines on the shaft)

Goliath

Excellent, thanks.

Was going to ask this in a different thread, but is there a recommended high performance fluid replacement for the diff?

Also, I see a drain plug, but the only fill point I can see looks like a vent on the r/r axle housing. Is that where it's filled, and do you fill it until it overflows?

Thanks again!

scottyb

On the TXT drop the pan, clean it, apply RTV gasket, fill just above the drain plug, and carefully re-install

Goliath

It's a Marathon.
Same thing?

cgtech

As far as the 3 Motor bolts go, if you are scared, go buy 3 grade 8 bolts of the same size. I have never seen a bolt failure on those. Not one, not even the nasty rusty worst one's.

mgray70

Should be the same rear end, unless it's the real old Marathon.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

JohnnieB

1. Came from factory filled with straight SAE-30 motor oil. Some people refill with a 80/20 mix of SAE-30 and STP (or similar additive), while others (for inexplicable reasons) use with gear oil to lubricate gears.

Gear oil and motor oil are rated on different scales, so SAE-85 gear oil has about the same viscosity as SAE-30 motor oil. I'm running 85W-140 natural gear oil now, but going to switch to 75W-90 synthetic.

2. Drop pan, clean metal shaving out of pan and reinstall using RTV for gasket. Use a fluid transfer pump that fits quart bottles to fill pan. Fill until the oil overflows out of the drain plug. Takes about 10 Oz., but a little more doesn't hurt.

scottyb

I add 1 oz or 2 of STP oil treatment. This stuff is thick and sticky. It sticks to the gears and does not drain off the top gears like the regular 30wt oil recommended. This way there is always protection on the gears, not just after they have made a few revolutions.

Goliath

Thanks for the detailed info.
I manage an automotive service department, so was thinking synth diff fluid, and will give that a shot.

Thanks, Scotty, for the tip about filling the pan and then doing the reinstall. Probably a lot less messy.