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Unread 02-14-2018, 09:10 AM   #41
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Default Re: Solenoid Continuity Question Please

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Originally Posted by konakid View Post
Just an update on the Solenoid Saga - I did take 48v from the power pack (correction: they were 8v batteries, not 12v) and tested the two solenoids completely disconnected from everything.

I placed the 48v across the two small terminals and nothing - no sound, no hum, no nothing - on both of them.

New solenoid is supposed to get here tomorrow. I hope I have some good news to report.
How about using all the knowledge you have gained here and test it before you install it and see how simple it is to test one.
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Unread 02-15-2018, 02:59 PM   #42
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Default Re: Solenoid Continuity Question Please

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Originally Posted by radioman View Post
How about using all the knowledge you have gained here and test it before you install it and see how simple it is to test one.
Will do - update: delivery is delayed - expected here tomorrow at end of day.

But it is hard to test if you have no idea what voltage is being applied to it when operating and installed. I had a 72v system, and it appeared as if 57v+ was being supplied when installed, but the solenoid was rated for 48v, and there was another relay at 24v+ in the mix. I had no idea what was going on.

However - with the help of you guys, I think this is what was happening. Tell me if you think I am right. It looks to me as if the voltage from 7 of the 8v batteries is being supplied to the solenoid. At 8.1-8.3v per battery, that would explain the voltage.

And Bob has explained something I don't completely understand, but it has something to do with an initial voltage higher than the rated capacity is acceptable - and it somehow "corrects" or "moderates" after the initial surge.

So, I guess I should test at 48v, and if good, just install and figure that the 57v+ is how it was designed to operate - as this is how it came from the factory.
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Unread 02-15-2018, 03:41 PM   #43
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Default Re: Solenoid Continuity Question Please

Do you have a wiring diagram for your cart that you can post or link to?
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Unread 02-15-2018, 03:42 PM   #44
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Default Re: Solenoid Continuity Question Please

Test it only with the rated voltage, which in this case is +48v.

The thing to remember is what matters is the voltage differential between the 2 solenoid coil posts, not the individual voltages themselves.

You can apply +100v to the positive post and +52v to the negative post and the Solenoid will only have 48v applied to the coil.
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Unread 02-15-2018, 04:01 PM   #45
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Default Re: Solenoid Continuity Question Please

Also, the controller doesn't "tap into" any of the individual batteries, only uses power from the whole set. The controller is capable of reducing voltage internally to any voltage it chooses.
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Unread 02-15-2018, 04:07 PM   #46
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Default Re: Solenoid Continuity Question Please

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Also, the controller doesn't "tap into" any of the individual batteries, only uses power from the whole set. The controller is capable of reducing voltage internally to any voltage it chooses.
CG - understood - the reason I mentioned that was because when I was hooking up 48v to test the solenoid I noticed several small wires coming directly off the battery terminals that would have translated to the voltage from seven batteries equalling about 57v which is what I measured at the solenoid. I didn't do any wire back tracking yet, but I thought that might make sense.
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Unread 02-15-2018, 05:05 PM   #47
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Default Re: Solenoid Continuity Question Please

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Do you have a wiring diagram for your cart that you can post or link to?
I'll look harder, but I gave up, cuz I didn't think it would help me that much. I thought I was getting pretty good with 36v and 48v systems. However, this cart has all kinds of wiring bundles, nine batteries with wires coming off different terminals, on board charger with even more wiring bundles, fuses here and there, etc. etc. etc.

When trying to get a wiring diagram, EZGO was not helpful at all - in fact, they refused to talk with me - and there were different models and years just in the last three years since my purchase, so finding the correct schematic seemed futile. Since this is so new and always maintained, I was hoping the issue was something simple.

In short, understanding and properly evaluating this system (with or without a wiring diagram) is way over my head. And the readings I was getting from the solenoid(s) when on/off, R/N/F, pedal pushed, hooked up/not hooked up, etc. were all over the map.

At this point, I'll wait for the new solenoid, install it, and go from there. So, stay tuned.
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Unread 02-15-2018, 05:12 PM   #48
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Default Re: Solenoid Continuity Question Please

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Unread 02-16-2018, 11:09 PM   #49
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Default Re: Solenoid Continuity Question Please

Ok - the new solenoid came in late today and I was in a hurry to confirm that was the problem - so I didn't test, I just immediately hooked it up. AND YES, IT RUNS NOW.

I had half the rear end dismantled to get to it - cussing the Cushman design team the whole time - but when putting things back together, I did see that there is an easier way to replace it if I ever have to again. I would have to remove some body "cowling," but now that the rivets are out, I'll replace with some plastic nuts and bolts for easier removal next time around.

So, I learned a lot from everyone - thanks a million. But there is still something I don't completely understand. That is, I have a 72v AC cart, and the solenoid is rated for 48v DC. And it looks as if it is being supplied with 57v+ DC - and this is how it was set up from the factory/dealer.

I guess the main contacts can conduct whatever voltage is in the main power circuit, and all the solenoid needs to do is close those contacts - and that comes from the 57v. But, I'm wondering if this is why the solenoid failed in the first place. Is this going to be the weak point of this vehicle?

And one other thing I noticed is that the 52 error code still continues to flash when in F or R whether the key is on or off. But it goes away when in N. And I am pretty sure it always did this - I just never paid much attention to it since it did it from day one.

I wish I had an expert on this cart to bounce a few questions off of. The "warranty" guy I called came out and although he was nice enough, I felt as if I had to bring him up to speed on things as simple as DC and AC motors - and proved to him his multimeter was defective - and this was at $129/hr.

Good thing I only had him look at my 48v AC RXV - while I waited for the solenoid to arrive for the Cushman. And he's the one who gave me the defective used solenoid to try, claiming it was good. But he didn't know very much about the bearing encoder that appears to be the problem with the RXV. But that's another story, under another topic, that I may revisit here soon.

In closing - thanks again to everyone. Maybe this island needs a good freelance golf cart repairman. At this rate, I'm starting to gain some confidence. And at $100/hr. I could undercut the competition
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Unread 02-17-2018, 12:02 AM   #50
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Default Re: Solenoid Continuity Question Please

I think your meter at 57v was not "telling the whole story". And if you wanna go "tech style" to make some money, your gonna need some experienced folks. I am super happy your rig is going again. I am very disappointed that all of your buddies give you broken solenoids to test this with. Lol, it was fun, for someone not on an island. I got another buddy on the islands who I also help, he is no use on a volt meter, yeah, that's fun.
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