1996 ezgo txt solenoid testing

terry2523

I have a 1996 EZGO TXT and I just replace the battery cables for 6 to 4 gauge, installed a heavy duty F&R switch assemble and replaced the solenoid. When I turned the key on I burn out the "Resistor", I put it on backward with the line pointing to the negative post not the positive post. I replaced the resistor pointing to the positive post. No clicking from the solenoid at all. The reverse buzzer come on and I can hear it click in F&R. I place my tester on the negative post of the battery and I get voltage on both side of the solenoid large post. If I jump the small post with the red wire to the large post on the same side I will hear the click and the cart will more forward and backward when I press down on the pedal with the key turn off or on. Is it the solenoid, switch assemble, or did I run the battery cables wrong. Thanks

BGW

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JohnnieB

A reversed DIODE typically takes out one or more of the four switches whose contacts have to be closed to activate the solenoid.

Attached is a schematic with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted.

Attached Images

Wiring Diagram - Series with KSI traced.JPG (58.9 KB, 0 views)

terry2523

I will try, I replace the solenoid, the resistor, so you may think that the key switch may be the problem then or could it be the selector switch?

JohnnieB

The pedal microswitch is the one that typically goes, followed by the Reed switch in the charge receptacle and then the Run microswitch on the F/R and then the keyswitch.

Check the voltage on the small wire coming out of the backside of the charge receptacle. If you have battery pack voltage, go to MS-2 on the F/R assembly, then check for pack voltage going through the keyswitch and the pedal switch.

terry2523

How do you get access to the pedal microswitch, to the top or bottom of the cart. If the car move forward and backwards when I push down of the pedal when I jump the solenoid will this tell me that the pedal microswitch is good. How do you check the Reed switch?

orangeman6

Can’t help you with your other question, but you have to lift the floor mat up to get to the pedal switch.

JohnnieB

As orangeman6 said, from the top of cart, under the floormat.

By jumping b+ to the solenoid coil, you've bypassed all the switches in the solenoid activation circuit, so the fact the cart moves doesn't prove any of them good or bad. However, it does prove the high current circuit is intact, the throttle is working and the motor is okay.

If there is B+ on the small wire coming out of the backside of the charge receptacle, the reed switch is good.

terry2523

I could not locate the problem so I took it to the shop and they found the problem for me within 20 minutes, it was the pedal micro-switch. There was also a problem with the F&R switch assemble, that is why I was losing power while I was driving up hills. Everything is working like new now.