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Unread 06-12-2018, 03:25 PM   #21
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Default Re: Loose steering, leaking bellows ezgo marathon

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Originally Posted by Goliath View Post
The lower gear, universal joint, and shaft are all one piece.
It's about $100.

I was going to try to remove the pins in the universal joint, and replace the wavy washers that take out the free play, but my gear was also worn.
Hey Goliath, I got steering shaft out like you said. When re-inserted there is no play in the universal joint or between the shaft gear and reduction gear. The two shafts in the gearbox don't move. The reduction gear turns about 1/4" before I feel resistance. I could see that the last time, as I mentioned, turning it with my finger. The teeth on the reduction gear show no wear (edges seem sharp, not rounded). The rack is hard to see in there, but the few teeth I can see don't look worn... But hard to say. What's the next step? I sure appreciate your knowledge!

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Unread 06-12-2018, 03:42 PM   #22
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Default Re: Loose steering, leaking bellows ezgo marathon

And here's a pic of the rack...

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Unread 06-12-2018, 04:31 PM   #23
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Default Re: Loose steering, leaking bellows ezgo marathon

Kind of hard to tell due to the grease, but the teeth on the rack don't look that good. I would do both.
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Unread 06-12-2018, 11:09 PM   #24
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Default Re: Loose steering, leaking bellows ezgo marathon

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Kind of hard to tell due to the grease, but the teeth on the rack don't look that good. I would do both.
Sorry, both what? Rack and reduction gear? Reduction gear looks perfect...

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Unread 06-13-2018, 02:52 PM   #25
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Default Re: Loose steering, leaking bellows ezgo marathon

Even if the reduction gear "looks" good, it still may be worn. Also, when gears wear, they tend to wear into each other after a while. If you replace one component and not the other, you may prematurely wear the new part, or have a different steering "feel".

These gears don't get a lot of stress, but you don't know how many miles they've got on them. If it were my cart, and I had identified the play as being between the rack and the reduction gear, I would replace both (the steering rack and the reduction gear).
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Unread 06-13-2018, 03:06 PM   #26
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Default Re: Loose steering, leaking bellows ezgo marathon

See my post #2 here:

98 EZ-GO Wandering at Speed & Rear Axle rotation

EZGO recommends replacing both together. Typically the rack ends up with more wear in the center, which makes sense, as straight gets used more, with slight back and forth movement.
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Unread 06-13-2018, 03:48 PM   #27
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Default Re: Loose steering, leaking bellows ezgo marathon

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Originally Posted by Goliath View Post
Even if the reduction gear "looks" good, it still may be worn. Also, when gears wear, they tend to wear into each other after a while. If you replace one component and not the other, you may prematurely wear the new part, or have a different steering "feel".

These gears don't get a lot of stress, but you don't know how many miles they've got on them. If it were my cart, and I had identified the play as being between the rack and the reduction gear, I would replace both (the steering rack and the reduction gear).
Ok, I will order these. I am finding the only way to get the rack is in a kit that includes the ball joint and dust cover. I need the bellows anyway, and couldn't hurt to replace the ball joint. Any special insight for installation you can add? I'll need a gasket too I'm sure...

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Unread 06-13-2018, 03:52 PM   #28
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Default Re: Loose steering, leaking bellows ezgo marathon

When I bought parts for my steering box and rear end, I found calling shopezgo was easier than guessing the right part number, as the part numbers on their online catalog didn't always match those in the parts manuals.
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Unread 06-13-2018, 05:26 PM   #29
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Default Re: Loose steering, leaking bellows ezgo marathon

Now that you've got the steering shaft off, it's a little easier.
The hardest part is separating the tie rod end (ball joint) from the idler shaft.
If you don't have an air chisel or pickle fork, it's a bit more difficult.

1) Take off the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut (but don't take off the nut) on the tie rod end that goes to the steering rack.

2) Strike the side of the idler arm where the tie rod end shaft goes through several times HARD to free the tie rod end. You need to hit it pretty hard, as it's a taper fit. Alternatively, you can flip the castle nut upside down, screw it down to flush with the tie rod end, and beat it loose. This can work, but if your goal is to reuse the tie rod end, it's not the best way. In the auto industry, we typically strike the side, or use an air chisel/pickle fork. Once loose, remove the castle nut and pull the shaft out of the idler arm.

3) Remove the 3 bolts holding the steering box in place.

4) Pull everything out through the underside.

BTW, I mentioned this in an earlier post, but make sure you check the upper idler shaft for play before you take it apart. It's a pain to do, but mine had a lot of play. To test it, insert the steering shaft temporarily into the steering box (you will need another person) and put the wheel on temporarily so you can turn the shaft. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth about 2" quickly, and watch the top of the idler shaft. If it rocks back and forth, the bushing is bad.
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Unread 06-13-2018, 06:21 PM   #30
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Default Re: Loose steering, leaking bellows ezgo marathon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goliath View Post
Now that you've got the steering shaft off, it's a little easier.
The hardest part is separating the tie rod end (ball joint) from the idler shaft.
If you don't have an air chisel or pickle fork, it's a bit more difficult.

1) Take off the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut (but don't take off the nut) on the tie rod end that goes to the steering rack.

2) Strike the side of the idler arm where the tie rod end shaft goes through several times HARD to free the tie rod end. You need to hit it pretty hard, as it's a taper fit. Alternatively, you can flip the castle nut upside down, screw it down to flush with the tie rod end, and beat it loose. This can work, but if your goal is to reuse the tie rod end, it's not the best way. In the auto industry, we typically strike the side, or use an air chisel/pickle fork. Once loose, remove the castle nut and pull the shaft out of the idler arm.

3) Remove the 3 bolts holding the steering box in place.

4) Pull everything out through the underside.

BTW, I mentioned this in an earlier post, but make sure you check the upper idler shaft for play before you take it apart. It's a pain to do, but mine had a lot of play. To test it, insert the steering shaft temporarily into the steering box (you will need another person) and put the wheel on temporarily so you can turn the shaft. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth about 2" quickly, and watch the top of the idler shaft. If it rocks back and forth, the bushing is bad.
That's some great directions, Goliath! Hopefully I'm able to get the idler arm and ball joint apart without too much trouble. I'll definitely check the upper idler arm, is this the bushing I'd need?

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