Cart driving me nuts!

Ezgo0602

What’s up guys, new here and need some advice. I have a 2004 36V EZGO TXT Series cart that I picked up as a project to restore. Was told all it needed was batteries when I got it. I put new batteries in it and the cart ran when it wanted to. It would run a few blocks around the neighborhood, then would lose all power and come to a stop. Let it sit a day or so and would do the same thing until eventually coming to a stop again. Put meter on new batteries under load, all is good and new. Put a meter on controller and it reads 38V. Things I have replaced so far: solenoid, ALL new 4 gauge cables on whole cart, new ITS sensor and microswitch under floor board, took apart the entire Fwd/Rev panel and cleaned it up. The fact that it runs fine when it wants to tells me the motor is fine. The cart will currently not move at all. When I turn the key and press pedal, the solenoid clicks and the cart WILL rock forward like the motor is trying to go, but it doesn’t. Same thing in reverse, the buzzer comes on loud, press the pedal and it rocks backwards like it’s trying to go, but can’t. Only thing left to really change is the controller. Does this sound like a controller issue? Please help!!!

BGW

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Sir Nuke

the fact that the solenoid clicks, you have an issue within the HIGH current circuit (the big cables) you said you took the F&R switch complete apart.....I am thinking you may not have tightened the center stem nut enough and it is not making contact all the time. here are the instructions that Scotty sends out when rebuilding a F&R switch. This may get you back on the road.

F&R-Exploded-View-for-print.jpg

Ezgo0602

Unfortunately, it’s as tight as the socket wrench would go. Took it apart to break it down and clean all contact points with wire brush for good solid connections. Everything was tightened back to max capacity. All high current cables are thick and new.

cgtech

The f&r has to be perfect. Not just clean. All contacts have to be perfectly level, none discolored (a sign of prior heat problems). If any contacts are sunken into the board even just a tiny amount, it's not savable. This problem of "runs great till it warms up a little from use" tells me it should be a F&R problem, or a controller problem.

Ezgo0602

Are there any tests I can do to narrow it down to the controller or the Fwd/Rev panel? Fwd/Rev panel looked to be in good shape, clean as a whistle and shiny points of contact; didn’t notice any burn marks. Just hate to spend the $ on a controller if that isn’t it. I do believe though it has to be something that is warming up after driving, causing it to shut down. Electronics is so tricky.

cgtech

Well, yes, but you have to be sure to do it right, or you will cause even more problems.
You can eliminate the f&r from the list by trying the following.


Label your wires and terminals with A, B, C, D, so every can be put back how it started.

Look at the f&r cam when in forward gear direction, note which sets of board contacts are connected by the cam connector links. Take one of the 2 wires off the f&r board that are linked together and put them together on the same terminal, do the same for the other side.

Be careful, this will disable the f&r switch direction control for this test.

If driving the cart under the conditions that would have caused failure no longer cause failure, f&r is the problem.

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Ezgo0602

Going to give it a shot. Thanks!

Nos800

Mine did the same thing, until one day it would barely move maybe 4-5 mph. Then my motor started smoking. Replaced it and no more problems, I was racking my brain.

Also, when all this started I replaced the following in order before replacing the motor.
New batteries, new wires, new solenoid, f&r switch, controller, then the motor smoked and replaced the motor.

If you want a stock controller I can make you deal on my old stock one.

Ezgo0602

Haven’t seen any smoke coming from the motor. Hoping that isn’t my problem, as they aren’t cheap. Seems as if the motor would be good since it feels like it’s trying to go, just can’t. And when it does go, motor rides just fine.

Let me ask this, to test the controller, would I put a meter on the terminals on the motor to see what voltage is being sent from the controller? Should they read 36V+ even if the cart is parked? Or will it just read 0v while parked? I’m getting 38V going INTO the controller, just wondering what’s coming out of it.

radioman

You need some professional help.