Ezgo PDS power issue

Hchays

Hello all, I'm new to the golf cart world. I just bought a lifted 08 PDS. I bought the cart knowing that it needed new batteries and expected more. Apparently I was right. I installed the new batteries, charged them and still no go. After trouble shooting a while I found that the controller was fried. I replaced it with a rebuilt stock controller and could actually get the diagnostic to beep (it said low battery even though the batteries are new and charged) otherwise nothing else. The solenoid does not activate with the go pedal pushed, but if I jump the solenoid it'll click. However still no go. I'm thinking I need a new ITS, but I'd like to hear from those that know more about this than I do. Also I ohmed the motor and had nothing to ground and 3.6 from F1 to F2 and I have proper voltage in and out of the ignition and f&r switches. Thank in advance for your help.

BGW

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Hchays

I was told this was the place to go for help on my cart, can anyone help with this issue?

scottyb

There should be 36v (+) at each end of every red line on this diagram when key on, in gear, pedal down.
Start tracing from the battery source to find where it stops

Attached Images

Ezgo PDS solenoid activation diagram.jpg (142.4 KB, 0 views)

JohnnieB

The first thing to do is get the solenoid to click when the pedal is pushed, which is a two step process.

1. B+ is applied to one side of the solenoid coil when the Run/tow switch is in Run, either F or R is selected on the F/R switch and the keyswitch is turned on.

2. B- is applied to the other side of the solenoid coil by the controller when the pedal is pushed.

The B+ source is the smaller of the three wires coming out of the backside of the charger port. It enters the controller on J1 Pin-4 and comes out on J3 Pin-3 through one set of the Run/Tow switch contacts and back into controller on J3 Pin-4. Next, it leaves controller on J1 Pin-1 to the F/R switch and returns to controller on either J1 Pin-2 or J1 Pin-3 depending on which direction is selected. Then it leaves controller via J1 Pin-9 to the keyswitch and returns to controller on J1 Pin-9 and then back out of the controller on J1 Pin-7 to one side of the solenoid coil. At this point, you ought to have B+ on the yellow wire attached to one of the two small terminals on the solenoid.

B+ coming into the controller on J1 Pin-8 also is fed to J4 Pin-2 to the pedal switch and when the pedal is pushed B+ is fed back to the controller on J4 Pin-1 where it triggers the main coil driver, which applies B- to J1 Pin-6, energizing the solenoid.


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You said you jumped the solenoid and it clicked. What exactly did you jumper to the solenoid coil, B+ or B- or both?

kgsc

Another big check is do you have 36 volts across the pack?

yurtle

Use jack stands when testing. Don't wanna run over anyone.

scottyb

Yourself included.

Hchays

Thanks for the pointers. I ordered and received today a upgraded controller and solenoid from Scotty B. I also ordered a new ITS and micro switch. One of those things should take care of the issue.

nickdalzell1

The bottom door on the toolbox at the very front of our shop is broken completely because of a similar mishap while working on a Harley Davidson Electric Golf Cart without jackstands (well it was 3 wheeler kinda hard to keep both wheels in back off the ground)

scottyb

With the majority of these carts having an open rear end (aka non posi-traction) jacking one wheel off the deck is enough to arrest the sometimes unpredictable electric cart.

When it happened to me I was lucky to escape with minor injuries as I was partially under the cart at time. It's a lesson you won't forget.