Help an old fool out with his TXT

55BigBlock

A couple months ago my 87 year old friend gave me his 2000 TXT 36 volt series cart. I finally got a chance to start updating it. The batteries are long in the tooth but they check around 38 volts after charging. It's been a week or so since I've moved it, but today it wouldn't move at all. I have a reverse buzzer but thats all. no clicks, no nothing. I didn't have much time so I didn't get a chance to check things. I planning on jumping the ignition switch first and then checking the obvious things. I've always been a club car guy so the TXT is new to me. What is the first place you guys would look? Thanks in advance.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

bronsonj

Are the batteries still 38v after it sat a week? Batteries self discharge about 1% per day when healthy and since the cart is new to you there may be a parasitic load you weren't told about. Possibly a 36v to 12v converter that's wired to stay on all the time?

orangeman6

This image is curtesy of johnnieb, super knowledgeable guy. The solenoid activation circuit is highlighted. If the solenoid isn’t engaging, this is where you need to start. Look for pack voltage at the start and locate where it stops.

As a small shortcut, I believe you can check the solenoid itself by seeing if you’re getting pack voltage at the small terminals on the solenoid. If you are, and it’s not sending pack voltage out the large terminal than it’s bad. That’s probably an easier first check.

One of the gurus will be along shortly, I’m sure.

Attached Images

3973BA23-072C-4517-8B78-872881DC80D4.jpeg (70.3 KB, 0 views)

55BigBlock

I charge the batteries weekly. The 38 volts was after a full charge, right before I tried to get it to move.

TexTurbo

Refer back to Orangeman's post...

NO click from sol..... start looking (with DVM) for 36vat the pdal activated micro switch in the box under the floor mat...

By far, the most common failure is the 4 pin connector from the previously mentioned box to the controller......unplug the 2 halves, look for obvious corrosion, bad pins and replug...if that is it, a lot of folks eliminate by waterproof "butt" connectors..

You can also use that plug to test your key switch and microswitch for continuity..

hope this helps !

55BigBlock

Thanks, I'm inclined to think that may be it. It has been sitting outside awhile. I hope to check it Saturday.

yurtle

Place the negative lead of your digital multimeter (DMM) to battery pack negative. Then follow the voltage from pack positive, reed switch, which is called the "ignition interlock" from the charger receptacle, through each and every switch, until you find you no longer have pack voltage. Starting at the reed switch (ignition interlock) will not only help you in the future (following voltage from beginning to end), it is a very common safety device that fails. It ain't if, but when. If yours is bad, simply bypass it. don't buy another one. All it does is prevent you from driving your cart with charger connected. If you're worried, pass the charger cable through the steering wheel, so you'll see it before pressing the go pedal.

55BigBlock

I finally got a chance to check things out. I removed the cover on the pedal box. It is very clean and dry inside but the roller arm on the microswitch is broken. I assume that would cause the problem. Are all these switches the same? It's a 2000 TXT 36V series.

sowilliams

I've had several go bad. I've bought replacements at a local electronics store. Just take the bad one with you so they can match up.

55BigBlock

Back on the TXT. I have jumped the ignition switch, jumped the micro switch (broken roller) in the pedal box, and jumped the reed switch in the charger receptacle. I have pack voltage on the small posts of the solenoid. Based on Orangeman6's earlier post, am I correct in assuming the solenoid is bad?