Another ezgo ign switch question

Retired01

Want to install a complete light kit, a digital volt meter, and a 12 to 70 vdc beacon on my daughters newly acquired 2007 electric TXT. I want all the power for all of these to come through the ignition switch. The question I have is there a ezgo factory ignition switch that I can purchase that will accomplish this, or do you know of another make of cart ignition switch that will work? This is my first post, so I hope I didn' mess up to bad?

BGW

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Mooncarter

Hello Retired01. Welcome to BGW. I'm not an EZ-GO expert and really don't know what a 12 to 70 vdc beacon is. Others will be along to help with this.

Although accessories can be powered by this cart, as far as I know not through the key. Perhaps a voltage reducer that is "triggered" by the key.

Hope this helps.

bronsonj

I don't know what the beacon is either, but the norm for the voltage converter is to have a wire that activates the converter but doesn't pull any current. On a voltage converter you will usually have on the input side a red, black and yellow wire. Red goes to the battery pack positive, black to the battery pack negative and yellow to the key switch. Then on the output side you'll have another red and black, this for 12v positive and 12v negative.

Do not ground either to the frame though. The golf cart frame is not a common ground like it is on a car.

BobBoyce

A beacon is a flashing (rotary or strobe) light that is mandated for use on low speed vehicles in some jurisdictions, when driven on public roads. They are typically powered by 12 volts and must be on while driving on a road. So keyswitch triggering makes sense. The color depends upon the regulations of the area, typically white or amber. Like the one pictured here.

Attached Images

Beacon.jpg (36.0 KB, 0 views)

bronsonj

Ah, ok... Makes perfect sense now and slightly embarrassing...

If any of the lights or the beacon are incandescent lights it may well pull more current than you want on the key switch. I don't know what they are rated for, but am guessing.

If you run a separate relay, you can use the relay to run much higher loads without worry about stressing the key switch.

Alternately, if you use a 12v light kit you can run the beacon and lights off a DC converter, it will use a trigger wire attached to your key switch which won't overload your keyswitch.

Mooncarter

LOL. Embarrassing for you? Look what is on top of the cart in my avatar. I have one and did not know the proper name. Just always said as everyone else around here "flashing yellow."

Retired01

I really appreciate all the input, the beacon is LED and it will work on any voltage from 12vdc to 70 Vdc and so the current is minimal, and the digital voltmeter also uses a very little current. At the time I submitted the original post, i had not opened the box containing the "Delux lighting kit" that my son in law had ordered online so I just figured I would need ignition switch power to power the complete kit, since then I have started on installing the light kit and now know that it is designed to hook up directly to 2 of the 6 volt batteries in my 6 battery set. Ideally if I can find a ignition type switch that would work like a double pole single throw switch like I have used many times in my years of doing electrical work, that would allow me to use one pole of the double pole switch for my existing wires and I can use the other pole for the 36 volt positive power i will get by attaching a wire to the positive side of the headlight switch which is to be installed within inches of the digital volt meter and the wire going to the beacon, one more connection to the 36 volt neg wire and I believe I will be good to go. Again thanks for your input.

orangeman6

If I’m understanding you correctly, you’ve got your beacon that can run on pack voltage, your voltage meter that will be hooked to the pack, but a 12v light set. It is not ideal to run 12v accessories from just two of the batteries. Those two batteries will be drawn down more than the others in the pack. This is where the voltage reducer comes in.

You can get a 3 position key switch that will allow you to switch on your beacon, reducer, whatever you may want, independent of the “go” part of the cart.

yurtle

Yes, a three position keyswitch is ideal. It is two independent switches, so you can have off, on, on with accessories positions. I'd power everything from the reducer, and have separate switches for some accessories. While it's a local ordinance/law to have the strobe, does it have to be on whenever you drive it? If so, you can decide whether you want a switch on it, or just have it on any time you are driving.

Retired01

Thank you for taking the time to comment on my post! After I re-read my post I realized that getting power from the 12 volt positive side of my light switch will work just fine for my beacon, but not for my digital voltmeter as I want it to read pack voltage. I usually would agree that feeding accessories or anything else from only 2 batteries out of a 6 pack is not a good idea, however in this case with both the beacon and the entire light kit being LED I think it will not be detrimental to either the 2 batteries or the pack. I will see what the current is when I get everything hooked up and go from there. The reason I did not want to pick up the power for the beacon and the voltmeter from the switch is if I am looking at the correct wiring diagram, the power to the switch goes through an interlock and MS2 on the forward reverse selector switch before it gets to the ignition switch and I prefer that not be the case. Once again I really do appreciate the comments!