RXV No Voltage at Brake Harness

The Big Guy

Hi All,

This is my first post so please forgive me if I have broken and protocol.

My wife took my 2013 EZGO RXV to the park with kids and when she tried to come home it would not move. I understand this to be a very common problem with the RXVs and I have spent hours reading up on all the previous posts and can't seem to find one that matches my symptoms.

Symptoms: Power comes on, I hear a big click (I believe the solenoid activating), reverse buzzer works, accessories work, cart won't move. Tow mode will not open brake.

If I put harness 1 into harness 3 under tow switch then I can move the cart.

Motor brake show 26 ohm resistance. (I actually bought a new brake and all same symptoms with it installed)

Batteries showing 50V.

No voltage across brake harness.

I went to a local shop and they told me to test the brake switch so I have the floor removed but am unclear on what to test here. Where should I be looking for voltage?

Any help is much appreciated, thanks in advance and merry Christmas.

BGW

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MUDSLINGER250

I'm not sure about a brake switch but you can check the plug under the dash and make sure it hasn't corroded or came loose.

MUDSLINGER250

I meant plug under cup holder.

usgicollector

Be very careful when messing with the wiring. Many controllers have been blown that way. Here is a guide to help you out.

Attached Files

RXV 48V AC Curtis Advanced Trouble-Shooting Guide.pdf (3.16 MB, 0 views)

The Big Guy

Thanks so much for the response.

I went out and looked at that harness (under the cupholder) and nothing is loose and the contacts look good, so I don't think that is the issue.

However, I did discover something new to add to the equation. After removing it and taking a look, I wanted to test if it made any difference. So I switched it from tow into run and back again. I noticed it made a different noise (more clicks) when I switched it back into TOW. It sounded like the brake let off and then reactivated down.

So I did it again but this time I pushed the cart right as I switched it into TOW and the cart moved for about a foot until the brake clamped down again!

So it has the ability to get voltage at the brake, but something immediately breaks that circuit again.

I am pretty confused now.

The Big Guy

USGI, thanks for that document and the warning.

How do I know if I blow my controller? Is it an all-or-nothing situation or can I damage just certain components of it?

usgicollector

You can just damage certain components and it just won't go.

Read the guide do some checks and it might help you narrow it down.

The Big Guy

OK, Saturday update. I ran the Brake Pedal Test on page 42. I couldn't really see across which wires they were measuring the impedance (looks mostly like red and red, but that seems counter intuitive to me). So I ran it across all of them.

Cart in TOW mode (normal tow mode with switch, not emergency tow mode switching power line harnesses)
Ignition in Neutral
Positive in Left Red, Negative probe in other red: 2X Ohms (pulsing)
Positive in Left Red, Negative probe in middle black: OL
Positive in Left Red, Negative probe in right hand black: OL

All read OL after pushing the brake pedal past 90%.

I think I am supposed to have the 0-0.1 impedance from red to black before I hit brake pedal, is that correct?

The Big Guy

I also went and did the sensor test on p 43 and could not get the voltage from the sensor. I have ordered a new sensor and wiring harnesses. I will let you know.

usgicollector

All test are with the two red wires.