2008 RXV butchered wiring, controller and motor

Jinman08

I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge about carts. This is my first one. Also thanks for any assistance you may be able to provide.

I bought a 2008 RXV project cart. I think it was flooded in Harvey and then someone went to town with a pair of wire cutters. They removed some stuff like the dc-dc converter and the run/tow switch and all the batteries and battery wiring. There may have been other stuff removed as well those are just things that I KNOW are missing. I've repaired the wires that I could find both halves of but there are still a few that dont have a match. I'm hoping if i post pics and what information i have yall can post pics of yalls wiring showing me what's missing.

All of these except the heavy guage wire are routed/end in the vicinity of the controller.

First one is a loom that has three clusters of two wires. One set is red and brown, one set is red and orange and one set is red and red and white. The sticker on the loom says 604221 which is the accessory harness (I believe dc-dc converter)

Next is a black wire that splits off from the pack of wires coming from the heat sensor that mounts above the transistor.

Then there is a loom that has a cluster of 2 yellow wires another cluster of a black and red wire (goes to the tow/run switch) and a pink wire that has been spliced with a black wire at the end. I assume the factory wire color is pink.

Then the red wire in the tow/run switch cluster has a second black wire spiced into it.

Last, there is a large gauge black wire (probably 8 or 10 guage) that pops put of the loom that runs back to the motor and brake about a foot or so before the rear axle.



On top of all that the motor and controller were heavily corroded. I had planned on buying a navitas controller but while I was looking around here to see if I could find some answers before posting I came across several posts stating that a forum member by the name of Bob is able to program a curtis controller to out perform a navitas. My cart has a danaher. Given that it has to be replaced what is the best solution? Should I go for a curtis conversion or is there another aftermarket controller I should look into?

The motor is also heavily corroded and I have been unsuccessful at finding any information about an upgraded motor. Are the stock motors basically as good as it gets? I have no plans to drag race this thing when it's done. 30-35 mph will be more than enough speed for me. I'm planning on lifting it and my neighborhood has a lot of hills so that is more my area of concern. I want to make sure hills dont kill the cart if all 4 seats are filled. I've got to by a new motor anyways, I dont mind spending a FEW extra bucks if there is a big advantage to be gained but I dont want to spend extra money to get me from 35 mph up to 40+ mph as I have no intentions of ever going that fast and my kids will likely drive it at some point and they dont even need the ability to go that fast.

BGW

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Jinman08

I tried posting images but it said i cant post web links until I've been a member for 7 days.

BobBoyce

A member here, usgicollector, has some Curtis RXV controllers, and may even have a Danaher to Curtis conversion kit left. Your Danaher is likely damaged, as the cut wires in that area are for the run/tow switch/reverse buzzer. Cutting those wires, then powering the cart up, will kill the controller. Proceed carefully on repairing the harness. I recently posted the wiring diagrams for RXVs of that era here...

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1567500

Also, I posted a Danaher to Curtis harness conversion documented thread here...

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ocumented.html

Good luck and Happy Holidays!

Bob

usgicollector

Bob since he will be starting from scratch wouldn't a new wiring harness be a lot easier? He needs a new controller and a motor and hopefully he gets a motor with a speed sensor not the old way with a bearing encoder.

What other problems in wiring changed from 2008 till now that would be affected.

BobBoyce

I forgot to respond to the motor corrosion. Typically it is only cosmetic. It can be cleaned. AC motors have no brushes or unsealed internal connections that could be an issue. Replace the bearing and bearing encoder for good measure. Sand the motor case and paint it black for better radiant emission. That should be all it needs.

As for the harness, that is an expensive item to replace. They are difficult to find as well. To use a newer harness would require an adapter pigtail for the bearing encoder connection. Unless you have a source for the harness and adapter pigtail...

Bob

rib33024

You can post a picture anytime you want to using the forum. You can not post a link to anything for your first 7 days



http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/test-...ing-101-a.html

agpfl

If needed, I have a motor from a 2012 that includes a motor brake.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

badandyturbo

How did you acquire a second motor?

Jinman08

The photos should be posted in order that I described them below.

First one is a loom that has three clusters of two wires. One set is red and brown, one set is red and orange and one set is red and red and white. The sticker on the loom says 604221 which is the accessory harness (I believe dc-dc converter)

Next is a black wire that splits off from the pack of wires coming from the heat sensor that mounts above the transistor.

Then there is a loom that has a cluster of 2 yellow wires another cluster of a black and red wire (goes to the tow/run switch) and a pink wire that has been spliced with a black wire at the end. I assume the factory wire color is pink.

Then the red wire in the tow/run switch cluster has a second black wire spiced into it.

Last, there is a large gauge black wire (probably 8 or 10 guage) that pops put of the loom that runs back to the motor and brake about a foot or so before the rear axle.

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agpfl

From a totalled 2012 golf course RXV. I didn't need it, but sometimes it's a good idea to buy something when you see it.

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