Help with Motor, Controller Compatibility

barlow46

Inherited the following:
G300 Manufacturer Code
1289529 Serial No.

Motor is: 7122 Advance Motors and Drives Part No.ES1-4002 36V rating AU2500 11/20/13

Controller is: Curtis PMC part no. 25864G05

I believe I have a 2000 Model Cart. There is no Tow switch on the controller and the forward/reverse handle is between under the seat.
After doing some online research, I saw in one post that this motor is not compatible with this cart (dsc?). The cart has been sitting for over a year. The batteries were shot. I took them out and tested the motor with straight 12V power and it seems to work fine. Both wheels turn at decent speed as I had the cart jacked off the ground. Before I go out and buy new batteries, I wanted to be sure I had compatible motor and controller for this cart. Thanks in advance for any help.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

scottyb

It looks like you have a year 2000 Series cart. You can go here to verify that.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/upgrade-suggestions.html
The motor you have is a stock motor

barlow46

Thanks for that info. I do have a Series cart.

barlow46

Moving along. After replacing all batteries and F/R unit motor is not running. I then jacked up so back wheels are off the ground and did the following:
1. Checked pack voltage at 38.5.
2. Check pack voltage at charger receptacle before and after reed valve. By-passed reed valve and seeing pack voltage going to red wire.
3. Removed plate with key switch and found pack voltage coming into switch and with switch on, pack voltage coming out of switch. (did find 12+ Volts on output side of switch with key off). There are multiple wires going to lighting, etc.
4. Opened pedal box and found pack voltage coming into micro switch and same coming out of micro switch after lightly pressing accelerator. Solenoid is clicking at this point.
5. I removed primary #6 wiring on both sides of solenoid and resistor wire going from post to post and got correct readings as posted. All solenoid test indicate that it is working properly.

At this point, I have stopped testing until further instructions. I also hooked up charger to cart and it charged for about 2 hrs before shutting off. (new batteries sitting for a week)
I can find no burn or heat spots on controller (Curtis with no A-2 lug). I have gone over wiring diagram quite a few times and can find nothing wrong at this point. I did trace all the way to motor S-1, S-2, A-1, A-2 .

Any additional advice would be appreciated.

yurtle

The last "easy" thing to do, besides reed switch bypass, is eliminate this Molex connector. This is the only low current thing that can keep a series cart from going, when the solenoid clicks. If you would like to, you can unplug this, spray contact cleaner, then plug/unplug/plug several times. If it works, simply splice the four wires sets together - white to white, green to green, etc. - and use a good heat-shrink.

If that doesn't fix it, follow the second attached highlighted circuit.

Attached Images

	Molex.jpeg (254.5 KB, 0 views)
	Wiring Diagram - Series- No A2 -Hi-Current traced.JPG (57.9 KB, 0 views)

barlow46

Took it one more step this afternoon. Checked the Inductive Throttle Sensor and got correct readings at minimum throttle and at maximum throttle. I did take the Moeller conncction apart and plugged it back in two or three times. I will check that again tomorrow. Next I am going to check the controller input and output. Then go back to the motor continuity test. I originally checked the motor before I bought new batteries by jumping 12V to the contacts and the motor ran so I figured it was OK. May have been wrong on that. I just have a feeling I am missing something simple but I am getting closer to suspecting the controller. Thanks for the input.

70oldsracer

Here is a diagram on how to check if the motor is working. Make sure the back wheels are off the ground and do not let it spin for a long time. Just a quick check should be fine. The motor will burn itself out if you let it spin under no load for too long

Attached Images

motor test.jpg (10.8 KB, 0 views)

barlow46

Thanks 70oldsRacer. I did just that before I bought the new batteries and the wheels turned at a decent rate. I let it run for about 5 seconds.

Mooncarter

Motor should be good.

70oldsracer

That's all you need. I would say the motor is fine.