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Unread 03-14-2019, 12:39 PM   #21
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Default Re: New Crowns or used Trojans for 36v to 48v conversion

I don't really have any flat runs, but that amperage sounds way low to me, for climbing hills. Mine generally runs 70 or so amps just cruisin' not climbing any real hills. Mine will hit 300 +/- climbing medium hills around me.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 12:42 PM   #22
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Default Re: New Crowns or used Trojans for 36v to 48v conversion

Figured out the logging feature. Had to save to a different folder than the Alltrax folder. Here is the Current and Voltage graph along with the throttle position. For some reason the throttle will only show 80% even though I'm on the floor, maybe that is the reason. I've also included the actual log file.
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File Type: jpg CurrentVoltage.jpg (124.1 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Throttle.jpg (106.8 KB, 0 views)
Attached Files
File Type: txt Run1.txt (9.5 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 03-14-2019, 12:59 PM   #23
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Default Re: New Crowns or used Trojans for 36v to 48v conversion

I had to adjust my ITS plunger to hit 100% with my old AXE. There may also be a way in the Toolkit.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 01:41 PM   #24
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Default Re: New Crowns or used Trojans for 36v to 48v conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by navynuke View Post
Figured out the logging feature. Had to save to a different folder than the Alltrax folder. Here is the Current and Voltage graph along with the throttle position. For some reason the throttle will only show 80% even though I'm on the floor, maybe that is the reason. I've also included the actual log file.
FWIW: The data log from a SR controller has 30 columns of data plus date and time columns and is in a csv (comma separated values) format. You cannot attach a csv file to a BGW post, so you have to ZIP it and attach the zipped file.

However, the edited file posted indicates the throttle signal actually reaching the SR controller on the hill is only 80%.

Since there were some 100% entries at the beginning of the file, I suspect there is some crosstalk at the in-line connector at the end of the gray cable from the pedal box.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 01:52 PM   #25
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Default Re: New Crowns or used Trojans for 36v to 48v conversion

I've attached the zip file of the complete log.

I assume I would need to somehow shield the grey cable to prevent crosstalk. Any recommendations?

Does everything else seem to be inline with what I can expect?
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Unread 03-14-2019, 02:15 PM   #26
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Default Re: New Crowns or used Trojans for 36v to 48v conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
FWIW: The data log from a SR controller has 30 columns of data plus date and time columns and is in a csv (comma separated values) format. You cannot attach a csv file to a BGW post, so you have to ZIP it and attach the zipped file.

However, the edited file posted indicates the throttle signal actually reaching the SR controller on the hill is only 80%.

Since there were some 100% entries at the beginning of the file, I suspect there is some crosstalk at the in-line connector at the end of the gray cable from the pedal box.
This guy. Delete his butt.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 03:06 PM   #27
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Default Re: New Crowns or used Trojans for 36v to 48v conversion

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Originally Posted by navynuke View Post
I've attached the zip file of the complete log.

I assume I would need to somehow shield the grey cable to prevent crosstalk. Any recommendations?

Does everything else seem to be inline with what I can expect?
Cut off the 4-pin connector and reconnect the four wires using solder joints or butt-splices and use marine grade (adhesive filled) shrink tubing to waterproof the splices.

What happens is the throttle wires (black and white) should have 10V between them when pedal is up (0% throttle) and 6V between them when the pedal is down. The green wire has battery pack voltage on it when the cart is ready to be driven and both green and red wires have battery pack voltage on them when pedal is pushed and pedal switch contacts close. Only going to 80% throttle indicates the voltage between the black and white wires is on dropping to 6.8V and the logical source for the extra 0.8V is the green and/or red wires. With ~50V available, it doesn't take much of a conductive path to add 0.8V to the throttle circuit.

That connector might not be the source of the problem, but it is a common failure item, so getting rid of it may very well save you headaches in the future. The purpose of the connector was to make assembly easier on the production line. Other than that, it has little value.

Thanks for the csv file. I'll load it into a spreadsheet and take a quick look for any red flags waving.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 03:49 PM   #28
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Default Re: New Crowns or used Trojans for 36v to 48v conversion

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Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
Cut off the 4-pin connector and reconnect the four wires using solder joints or butt-splices and use marine grade (adhesive filled) shrink tubing to waterproof the splices.

What happens is the throttle wires (black and white) should have 10V between them when pedal is up (0% throttle) and 6V between them when the pedal is down. The green wire has battery pack voltage on it when the cart is ready to be driven and both green and red wires have battery pack voltage on them when pedal is pushed and pedal switch contacts close. Only going to 80% throttle indicates the voltage between the black and white wires is on dropping to 6.8V and the logical source for the extra 0.8V is the green and/or red wires. With ~50V available, it doesn't take much of a conductive path to add 0.8V to the throttle circuit.

That connector might not be the source of the problem, but it is a common failure item, so getting rid of it may very well save you headaches in the future. The purpose of the connector was to make assembly easier on the production line. Other than that, it has little value.

Thanks for the csv file. I'll load it into a spreadsheet and take a quick look for any red flags waving.
So as I had thought, I got rid of the butt connector. The black and white cable go directly to the controller via a spade connection. The other two wires are connected via soldered splice. I donít remember what the wiring looks like in the throttle box area, but I feel like the black and white cables are sealed going into the ITS unit.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 04:05 PM   #29
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Default Re: New Crowns or used Trojans for 36v to 48v conversion

The pack voltage dropped to 38.5V, but the battery amps was at 501.2A, the batteries aren't broken in yet and the temperature was probably than 80įF. That triggered the Lo-Battery flag that appears of the next line entry, but wouldn't be overly concerned about it unless it reoccurs often.

The flags I was looking for were the hi and low throttle under and over range, which often are set when there is cross-talk between the throttle and pedal switch circuits, but there isn't enough cross-talk to drive the throttle signal out of its normal range +/- tolerances.

The Throttle Position column corresponds to the throttle voltage input to the SR controller and there are a few places that indicate there is a throttle signal when there shouldn't be. I see about 0.1V in some places and about 0.7V in others, and the expected reading of 0 in still others. So whatever the problem is, it is both intermittent and inconsistent.

I'd get rid of the in-line connector and see if that fixed the problem and go on troubleshooting from that point is it doesn't.

BTW: Divide the number in the throttle position by 4095 to get %throttle.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 04:17 PM   #30
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Default Re: New Crowns or used Trojans for 36v to 48v conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by navynuke View Post
So as I had thought, I got rid of the butt connector. The black and white cable go directly to the controller via a spade connection. The other two wires are connected via soldered splice. I donít remember what the wiring looks like in the throttle box area, but I feel like the black and white cables are sealed going into the ITS unit.
You posted while I was typing.

Is the pedal box clean and dry?

Connect a DVM between the black and white wires at the controller and if at all possible, read the voltage while going uphill and you're only getting 80% throttle with pedal on floor.

Also, when recording a data log file, when you let pedal return to the full upright position, take your foot completely off the pedal. (A foot resting on pedal might cause the slight throttle voltage I was seeing on the log.)
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