1999 EZGO 36 Volt Loss of Power

returntoport

I have a 1999 marathon EZGO 36 volt Series model 1000 utility cart. Everything is stock, wheels/tires no lift. When I go 3/4 or more throttle I loose all power if I let up to 3/4 or less power comes back. Does my pedal box need adjusted?

BGW

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Brob1969

Hmmm. It does sound like a throttle signal issue. Is it a Curtis controller? Do you know the model number of the controller?

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Yes it is a curtis controller but not sure what model number. When I did a parts search for the controller I have it comes up these parts numbers..... Replaces Curtis numbers 1204-002, 1204-014, 1204-023, 1204-031, 1204-030, 1204-028, 1204-103, 1204-204. I do not have the throttle problem in reverse full pedal works fine.

yurtle

Reverse in a series cart sends a signal to the controller to only apply 1/2 throttle, meaning 3/4 = 3/8.

If you have a Molex connector on the cable from the throttle box, eliminate it by soldering or butt splicing then use quality heat shrink.

Attached Images

Molex.jpeg (254.5 KB, 0 views)

returntoport

That took care of it. Thanks!!

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Now I've noticed not much power checked each battery after of full charge and 6.1 volts on each battery which I think is only a 55% capacity? Batteries are 3 years only

JohnnieB

What is the Make/Model of batteries?

What is the Make/Model of charger?

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Power Wise Charger Model 28115g04
Batteries are Interstate Deep Cycle Extreme
Model GC2-XHD-UTC

JohnnieB

The attached SoC chart should be correct for your batteries.

For a single battery, the voltage needs to be resolved to 1/100th of a volt to get a reasonable accurate SoC estimate. Dur to rounding, 6.1V could mean anywhere from 50% up to about 65%, but it is still too low. Ought to be 6.37V, or so.

Do you have some way of measuring the max voltage reached on charge? It should be in the 44V to 46V with your PW28115 charger.

If it is getting in that range, the interconnecting cables and the cables to the cart's charging receptacle may need some cleaning. If that doesn't get the SoC up to the 100% neighborhood, the batteries have badly sulfated plates.

If they do, you might get some improvement by doing some back-to-back charges, which means restarting charger after it shuts off automatically. Doing that two or three time a day for a couple weeks in addition to putting it on charge after each use might get the batteries to accept more of a charge.

I managed to get a set of T-105 batteries from taking a 85% charge up to 94% in two months and almost to 98% in about ten months.

Attached Images

SoC vs Voltage.jpg (259.3 KB, 0 views)

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I live in a cold weather climate so I had the car in heated storage all winter and the charger plugged in. I got it out a week ago and noticed the low power problem and did unplug and plug in the charger to the cart like you mentioned and watch the voltage meter on the charger go up to 20 amps and slowly fall to when the charger shuts off which took about a ten minutes. I did replace the battery cables with 4 ga. replacements with copper ends and cleaned the battery terminals as well as the other smaller wire ends going the the controller and from the charging port connected to the batteries. Whenever the cart is not in use i have the charger plugged in. Will the charger not kick on when plugged in if battery voltage drops? Or do I need to unplug the charger and plug bak in to restart the charger? Would it be a good idea to us an automotive battery charger to charge 2 pairs at a time for 30-60 mins to regain full charging capacity?

Yes I can check voltage with a volt meter? When you asked to measure max voltage when should I check that, how long should I wait after a charge to check?