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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 05-02-2019, 12:33 AM   #1
DubK
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Default 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

Stumped! I am in the process of upgrading one of my 3 wheelers (36v now to 48v later). It is the model with the Curtis controller. It worked just fine before I started the upgrades. This week I installed new 36V batteries, new 2g full cable set and 400amp solenoid from Scottyb. I am still using the Curtis controller currently. Saving up a bit for the alltrax 500amp and HD f+r switch later. I'm doing everything little by little.

I wired everything up according to the wiring diagram. Solenoid clicks but the cart doesn't move. I did not install a resistor or diode on the solenoid because I'm just using the old Curtis controller still and i read that I would only need the resister and diode for the Alltrax SR controller which I plan to get eventually. Is this true? Or would not having a resistor and diode on this new solenoid prevent the cart from going? Or have I maybe messed in my wiring somewhere? Here are pics I just took of how it's wired.

New 400A solenoid


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Old 05-02-2019, 07:53 AM   #2
bobbycason
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Default Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

I can't answer about the Curtis controller but I do know that when I upgraded from 36v to 48v my SR controller wouldn't work properly without the resistor, so this may be an issue for the Curtis controller too. I took the cover off the solenoid and pushed the plunger down manually briefly which provided enough power to charge the diodes in the controller to work properly.

After asking here to confirm, I was able to use the 36v resistor (I forget what Ohm it was) to make sure everything worked properly while waiting for the 48v resistor to arrive.
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:00 AM   #3
DubK
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Default Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

Thanks for the tip. Well I installed the resistor and diode from Scottyb on the new solenoid today. Again following the wiring diagram. IT STILL DOESN'T GO. Solenoid just clicks when I push the pedal. Batteries have a full charge. I'm so stumped on this. Again I'm still using the old Curtis controller which worked fine before I started upgrading. Can anybody tell if I wired something incorrectly? Or any other advice? I'm a newbie at this.

Here's a pic with the resistor and diode installed on the new solenoid.
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Old 05-03-2019, 05:02 AM   #4
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Default Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

Quote:
Originally Posted by DubK View Post
Thanks for the tip. Well I installed the resistor and diode from Scottyb on the new solenoid today. Again following the wiring diagram. IT STILL DOESN'T GO. Solenoid just clicks when I push the pedal. Batteries have a full charge. I'm so stumped on this. Again I'm still using the old Curtis controller which worked fine before I started upgrading. Can anybody tell if I wired something incorrectly? Or any other advice? I'm a newbie at this.

Here's a pic with the resistor and diode installed on the new solenoid.
I don't have any experience with EZGO. But, shouldn't there be a cable coming off of the solenoid on what is the left side in the picture? Maybe if you post a picture of the wire diagram more folks might be able to help.
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Old 05-03-2019, 05:19 AM   #5
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Default Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

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Originally Posted by BBBHC View Post
I don't have any experience with EZGO. But, shouldn't there be a cable coming off of the solenoid on what is the left side in the picture? Maybe if you post a picture of the wire diagram more folks might be able to help.
You would think! But the old solenoid didn't have one. On the instructions with the new solenoid it said both terminals are positive and I can use either one. This is the wiring diagram I used.

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Old 05-03-2019, 09:02 AM   #6
scottyb
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Default Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

Did anybody else notice there seems to be only one high amperage cable to the solenoid?
The controller B+ cable should go to the solenoid.
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:05 AM   #7
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Default Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

Try the diagram CTD posted here, the bold lines are high current cables and the not bold lines are low current wires. The way I understand the solenoid is that the small wires tell it to close when you push the pedal and the larger cables carry the current when it closes. Looks like you should have another high current cable coming off the new solenoid going to the B+ terminal on the controller. Both terminals can be positive side but I would think you'd need somewhere for that electricity to go once the solenoid closes, as you have it wired right now the solenoid is closing but you have nowhere for it to power. You could check this with a voltage meter first. (Once again I have no experience with this setup this is just my observation)

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1315247
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:21 AM   #8
Wbk1972
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Default Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

Curious but to me it appears the other positive post on the solenoid might be contacting the body. Would that ground it out. I'm new to golf carts but I myself would prefer a insulating material there. Now it out could also just be the angle of the photo. But she's awfully close from the picture.

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Old 05-03-2019, 09:58 AM   #9
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Default Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
Did anybody else notice there seems to be only one high amperage cable to the solenoid?
The controller B+ cable should go to the solenoid.
Didn't even catch that. I should have taken better pictures before I disconnected all the old stuff. I'll connect one tonight when I get home. Thanks a lot. Told y'all I'm a golf cart rookie. Hopefully everything else is wired up correctly and it will go after I connect that cable. I bought your 2g cable set but I don't have any left over to connect the solenoid to the controller so I figured I was done. I have a 4g short cable I could put right there. Now leads me to think I wired something else wrong if I'm 1 short on cables!
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:05 AM   #10
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Default Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
Did anybody else notice there seems to be only one high amperage cable to the solenoid?
That's what I was saying in the previous post.
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