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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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05-02-2019, 12:33 AM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Sugar Land, TEXAS
Posts: 270
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1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades
Stumped! I am in the process of upgrading one of my 3 wheelers (36v now to 48v later). It is the model with the Curtis controller. It worked just fine before I started the upgrades. This week I installed new 36V batteries, new 2g full cable set and 400amp solenoid from Scottyb. I am still using the Curtis controller currently. Saving up a bit for the alltrax 500amp and HD f+r switch later. I'm doing everything little by little.
I wired everything up according to the wiring diagram. Solenoid clicks but the cart doesn't move. I did not install a resistor or diode on the solenoid because I'm just using the old Curtis controller still and i read that I would only need the resister and diode for the Alltrax SR controller which I plan to get eventually. Is this true? Or would not having a resistor and diode on this new solenoid prevent the cart from going? Or have I maybe messed in my wiring somewhere? Here are pics I just took of how it's wired. New 400A solenoid |
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05-02-2019, 07:53 AM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Independence, LA
Posts: 216
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Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades
I can't answer about the Curtis controller but I do know that when I upgraded from 36v to 48v my SR controller wouldn't work properly without the resistor, so this may be an issue for the Curtis controller too. I took the cover off the solenoid and pushed the plunger down manually briefly which provided enough power to charge the diodes in the controller to work properly.
After asking here to confirm, I was able to use the 36v resistor (I forget what Ohm it was) to make sure everything worked properly while waiting for the 48v resistor to arrive. |
05-03-2019, 12:00 AM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Sugar Land, TEXAS
Posts: 270
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Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades
Thanks for the tip. Well I installed the resistor and diode from Scottyb on the new solenoid today. Again following the wiring diagram. IT STILL DOESN'T GO. Solenoid just clicks when I push the pedal. Batteries have a full charge. I'm so stumped on this. Again I'm still using the old Curtis controller which worked fine before I started upgrading. Can anybody tell if I wired something incorrectly? Or any other advice? I'm a newbie at this.
Here's a pic with the resistor and diode installed on the new solenoid. |
05-03-2019, 05:02 AM | #4 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 1,720
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Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades
Quote:
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05-03-2019, 05:19 AM | #5 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Sugar Land, TEXAS
Posts: 270
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Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades
Quote:
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05-03-2019, 09:02 AM | #6 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,406
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Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades
Did anybody else notice there seems to be only one high amperage cable to the solenoid?
The controller B+ cable should go to the solenoid. |
05-03-2019, 09:05 AM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Independence, LA
Posts: 216
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Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades
Try the diagram CTD posted here, the bold lines are high current cables and the not bold lines are low current wires. The way I understand the solenoid is that the small wires tell it to close when you push the pedal and the larger cables carry the current when it closes. Looks like you should have another high current cable coming off the new solenoid going to the B+ terminal on the controller. Both terminals can be positive side but I would think you'd need somewhere for that electricity to go once the solenoid closes, as you have it wired right now the solenoid is closing but you have nowhere for it to power. You could check this with a voltage meter first. (Once again I have no experience with this setup this is just my observation)
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1315247 |
05-03-2019, 09:21 AM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 25
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Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades
Curious but to me it appears the other positive post on the solenoid might be contacting the body. Would that ground it out. I'm new to golf carts but I myself would prefer a insulating material there. Now it out could also just be the angle of the photo. But she's awfully close from the picture.
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05-03-2019, 09:58 AM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Sugar Land, TEXAS
Posts: 270
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Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades
Didn't even catch that. I should have taken better pictures before I disconnected all the old stuff. I'll connect one tonight when I get home. Thanks a lot. Told y'all I'm a golf cart rookie. Hopefully everything else is wired up correctly and it will go after I connect that cable. I bought your 2g cable set but I don't have any left over to connect the solenoid to the controller so I figured I was done. I have a 4g short cable I could put right there. Now leads me to think I wired something else wrong if I'm 1 short on cables!
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05-03-2019, 10:05 AM | #10 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 1,720
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Re: 1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades
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