Ez-go dcs wont run

Camping123

Hello guys, in need of some advice. I have a 1997 ezgo 36v txt dcs. And it currently wont run. I just picked this one up, the previous owner replaced the controller with a FSIP reman curtis. First the reverse beeper wouldn't work, so i found the reed switch broken so i just tied the wires together. Still wont move batteries hold charge at 37.8ish volts. Any advice?

BGW

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Imapled

Welcome to DCS hell. The problem is that "rebuilt" controllers are not really "rebuilt". They are made up of different parts from other broken controllers. It could be a variety of things but, it stuck out to me that you have a refurbished controller.

I have a 1996 DCS TXT and it had a 1206SX Curtis Controller in it. These controllers suck. If your controller is bad do not get another 1206SX refurbished/remanufactured/whatever they call it. It will just die a horrible death.

This is what my controller looked like when I pulled it out:

Warped1206SX.jpg

They were not built to last and I am sure the more experienced posters on this site can tell you way more reasons to replace the controller with a new after-market one.

Check the connections on your Molex adapters on the cart. The DCS wire harness is crappy. I just spent 2 days futzing with mine and fixing bad ends. You could have a loose connection.

You could have a bad solenoid. You could have a bad ITS. Pedal switch may be broken. There are lots of things that could be wrong. You may have a wire that after 20+ years of rubbing against the frame finally shorted out and screwed everything up.

Lots of different things could be wrong with the cart.

Cheers,
Impaled

LukeL

I have a DCS controller in the for sale section if it helps you any...

Camping123

Okay thanks, ill check when i get home all the connections i was looking at the parts diagram of the dcs solenoid to make sure wires are in the right spot and if i can remember right ( i will have to double check)i think the precharged resistor is on backwards compared to the picture, cant post a link because I haven't been a member for 7 days.

scottyb

The OEM DCS controller had a fatal flaw. If the battery power ran low the resulting amperage spike fried the controller. This gave the DCS a bad name until Alltrax came along with a builtin safety to guard against this happening.

It's a great cart with the XCT400 in it. More torque than PDS and more speed than Series.

Camping123

Thanks I’m leaning towards this reman controller took a crap. The white and yellow wire at the ignition switch should that go to the small terminal with red/yellow on the solenoid? I have the white and yellow wire with a female end on it thats laying under the controller, wire is in the same harness as the yellow one from the ignition switch. I found a diagram and it showed yel/white going to same terminal as the red wire and yellow. Attatched it there and on the ignition switch and it went for about 20 seconds in forward on jack stands, then quit moving and the reverse beeper is just going bananas. Ive checked volts on both small terminals and it is 38.8v. Went to the B+ on controller and M- and hit the gas pedal and volts go up to about 2.2v then back to zero. and when pedal is hit it makes a faint beep sound( with rev buzzer unplugged) Thinking a faulty controller..

yurtle

You mentioned 37.8 volts in your first post. If that's the best they can do, which is 90%, then they may be dropping too low under load. As mentioned above, undervoltage kills stock controllers. I can't help with troubleshooting, but even if you get it figured out with the controller, it would be good to keep an eye on voltage while driving.

Imapled

Quite possibly but, your main Molex probably needs some attention as well if it has signs of heat. You can pop the pins out and check them. They may have corrosion on them. They could be melted and not making good contact.

You press down on the big flat metal part and pull gently on the wire to get them out. You may have to pull up the tab after you have taken them out to reseat them in the adapter.

If the 10 pin Molex is melted get a new one and replace the housing. It is part 1-770849-0 from Molex. I got a new one for 30cents Canadian. So like 3 cents US. :P

Just experienced this on my cart over the past 2-3 days. It was the 10 pin Molex. I had to replace 1 pins on the stupid thing and put on the new 30cent housing. It was not making proper contact. When I put power to the cart the reverse buzzer was just going mad as well. (I just changed the 10 pin Molex today as it was melted and figured I should do it. Previously I was using the burnt up one. )

Doesn't sound like it. Sounds like bad contacts in the wiring based on my recent experience.

My controller replacement on my DCS TXT (and other insanity) can be found on this thread: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...questions.html

My Molex nightmare can be found here: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ssues-sos.html

I believe there is a photo of my old controller and solenoid setup in the first thread I linked if you want a visual on how it should be setup on the stock stuff.

Cheers,
Impaled