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Unread 09-10-2019, 11:27 PM   #51
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Default Re: Identifying 2000 TXT EZGO Model, Increasing Speed/Torque, Fixing F/R switch

Hey guys, I swapped the A1/A2 cables today for the 2GA and no improvement!

Iíll have to start digging on the various bearings and swapping those out. Or pull the motor and inspect things there.

I changed the brake pads before this swap and there was no decrease in speed after so donít think itís pads rubbing.

Will get the alltrax stuff installed and get a screenshot soon, though scottyb programmed it so itís likely set up optimally

Thanks for the continued advice and your time!

-iain



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Unread 09-10-2019, 11:29 PM   #52
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Default Re: Identifying 2000 TXT EZGO Model, Increasing Speed/Torque, Fixing F/R switch

Maybe itís just time for a new motor, instead of going 48v? After the bearing things are eliminated?

We use it as a NEV, so I donít want to sacrifice runtime for speed, maybe 42v how a couple of you guys have done is the way to go


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Unread 09-11-2019, 12:02 AM   #53
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Default Re: Identifying 2000 TXT EZGO Model, Increasing Speed/Torque, Fixing F/R switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by iainlbc View Post
Maybe it’s just time for a new motor, instead of going 48v? After the bearing things are eliminated?

We use it as a NEV, so I don’t want to sacrifice runtime for speed, maybe 42v how a couple of you guys have done is the way to go


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I would go to full 48v. 6x8v batteries will fit in your tray. You will have to buy a new charger that is specifically for 42v anyways... and the 48v chargers are probably the same price.

In the alternative, you can put a battery under the passenger seat and one in the trunk or both in the trunk if you want to do an 8x6v setup. Your range on an 8x6v setup will be awesome. 6v batteries have more AH. I have a TXT 6 Seat Limo coming that has a 8x6v setup.
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Unread 09-11-2019, 12:02 AM   #54
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Default Re: Identifying 2000 TXT EZGO Model, Increasing Speed/Torque, Fixing F/R switch

I wouldn’t get in too big a hurry spending money on a motor... 18-19mph ain’t bad

My cart did the 22 with brand new batteries fresh off the charger... fully inflated tires ... just a driver and no rear seat... stone stock configuration other than the Alltrax

I’m installing a rear seat tomorrow... I’ll let you know how it performs after the install
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Unread 09-11-2019, 01:03 AM   #55
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Default Re: Identifying 2000 TXT EZGO Model, Increasing Speed/Torque, Fixing F/R switch

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Originally Posted by Timberwolflt View Post
I wouldnít get in too big a hurry spending money on a motor... 18-19mph ainít bad
Excellent point. If you go over 20mph you really need to consider cart wobble etc... then you will spend more money on top of it all so you can have a cart that goes fast. (Front disc brakes... etc... never ends.)
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Unread 09-11-2019, 06:07 PM   #56
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Default Re: Identifying 2000 TXT EZGO Model, Increasing Speed/Torque, Fixing F/R switch

Thanks guys. Points well taken. Will chill out on the upgrades for now! Iíd like to go up to 20 flatland but thatís about it, and climb hills a bit better.

Iíll read up on inspecting the state of bearings, motor and etc. for wear/inefficiencies



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Unread 09-12-2019, 10:02 AM   #57
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Default Re: Identifying 2000 TXT EZGO Model, Increasing Speed/Torque, Fixing F/R switch

Pushing cart by hand can determine if there is an abnormally high amount of mechanical drag.

Find a stretch of level pavement, put Run/Tow in Tow and push cart. It weighs half a ton, so it takes a bit of oomph to get it moving, but once it is moving it shouldn't take much effort to keep it moving.

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A stock DCS motor in good condition will propel a stock DCS cart with stock height (18") tires at a bit over 20 MPH with a healthy 36V battery pack and it is a relatively high torque motor, so it is fairly good on hills up to about 14į.

Check motor with an Ohmmeter with cable disconnect from motor.
A1 -> A2 should read from about 0.2Ω to about 1.0Ω. (Actual value is in Milli-Ohms, but that is what it typically reads on most handheld DMMs)
F1 -> F2 should read from about 1.0Ω to about 2.0Ω.
A1 -> F1 must read OPEN
F1 to motor case must read greater than 5MΩ (5,000,000Ω)

Unless the motor has been serviced in the past few years, it will very likely fail the last two tests. Carbon dust from the brushes, which is conductive, coats the inside of the motor and provides an alternate electrical pathway through the motor. If enough carbon dust accumulates, the motor's performance can be reduced.

Take the motor to the local motor repair shop and have it serviced. (New brushes, new bearing and thorough cleaning.)

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The oil in the differential more than likely needs to be changed. I use 75W90 full synthetic, others use a 80/20 mix of SAE30 motor oil/STP.

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With little exception, a 7x6v (42V) or a 8x6V (48V) pack will give you a better range than a 6x8V (48V) pack.

I went with a high capacity (245AH) 7x6V (42V) pack because I wanted a 30 plus mile range.
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