Identifying 2000 TXT EZGO Model, Increasing Speed/Torque, Fixing F/R switch

iainlbc

Good evening folks,

First time poster, first time golf cart owner.

I bought this 36V EZGO TXT earlier this month, it has no S/N plate unfortunately and I'm trying to identify the exact model/drive system.

It did have a title and current registration; I have successfully gotten that renewed and obtained insurance through AAA.

My first project was cleaning up the batteries/topping off with distilled water and installing the battery meter, which for some reason is always on regardless of key position (tried jumping into each connector end separately), not a huge deal.

The lights/blinker/horn/etc. all work regardless of key position. I even unconnected the main negative and positive and noticed the lights were still on. Does this mean all of the accessories are wired up off of 1 or 2 batteries instead of the whole pack? I recall reading on here that is not an ideal setup since they will drain unevenly and your pack will only perform as good as the weakest link.

Currently the cart goes 13MPH on flatland, i noticed when going downhill some kind of regulator/auto regenerative braking kicked in when I wasn't on the pedal if that helps identify?

I see some of the wires aren't in great shape anymore and likely those will get reworked next.

Ideally we would get up to somewhere around 18-25MPH and have a bit more torque for hills with 4 people onboard.

I'm just not sure if this year/model of cart is worth the upgrade path, or if I should look into selling it and spending what would be the upgrade cost in a newer generation cart that is already 48V/etc.

Specifically, seeking some experts help in:

- identifying if the electrical system is currently not optimally configured

- identifying the model/drive system

- any advice on upgrade paths for the cart to increase speed and or torque

- The F/R lever spins completely and never stops, you have to get it into the right position to go F or R. Is this dangerous in any way? I can't seem to find any "hockey puck" style F/R switch replacement pieces. Any advice on how to fix the F/R switch or upgrade it to rocker style (heavy duty so future upgrades aren't bottle necked here?)

- The top 4 bars of the battery meter seem to drain quickly then it stablizes and each bar lasts signifcantly longer. Is this an indication of the age of the batteries? So they only currently offer "60-70%" of their capacity when compared to new batteries?

Here is a link to full photo album with more pictures:
https://imgur.com/a/zXx4KSG

Thank you in advance for your time and help

- iain

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BGW

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cgtech

So, you are saying the title nor the registration lists the model year and serial number to use for reference? I understand that is not foolproof, because you can't verify. Different eras of txt had serial numbers in different areas, like under the cart on the frame by the pedals. Search for serial number alternate location, and narrowing down the years by type of steering box used.

Sir Nuke

Hi iain, looking at your photo album, I can see a few things to help you identify your cart and some of what you have told us about your cart. the issue with the lights. I see in one of the pictures on the second battery that is a smaller black wire connected, I would be willing to bet that is the ground for your auxiliaries, and you are right that the previous owner set them up running off of just 12v. so one thing you should consider is to put on your list of things to do is install a DC Converter to run your auxiliaries. Something lese, you mentioned you installed a meter...and its a bar type, those are very inaccurate and won't truly give you good information....the best thing for that is to get a digital one that will truly give you good info. a great place to get one is from one of our sponsors, cartsunlimited.net.

NOW as to your drive system....there is no doubt that its a DCS cart, considering the F&R handle is on the body AND behind it is a HOCKEY PUCK. to truly conform that take a look at this.

Zincode

Hello iain,

Yes it is a DCS, aka: Drive Control System. Ezgo first major upgrade to the speed controller on TXT models. I own a 1997 DCS model and it has been my most troublesome cart. Three experts in the Tampa Bay area all agree with this advice they provided me; they all say "when that thing breaks junk it"... I continue repairing it and have been successful; but at a cost. Parts are not obsolete but are getting rare to source. Most are still available from ezgo. Controller for the DCS from Ezgo is crazy number, like over $700, I replaced few years back. I like challenges and I just keep repairing this unit. I have others that need less. If you choose to keep this unit just understand that it was only used a few years. Replaced by PDS system used to this day. Good luck. The white one is the DCS

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

rib33024

Zincode Who ever gave you the info on the DCS cart was Wrong. The DCS cart is a good cart. You can get any parts you need for the DCS. To fix the F/R cost about 10 to 20 dollars. And A controller for a DCS cart does not cost 700 dollars. You can get a new controller for this cart for around 400 dollars. Just like any other TXT - DCS - PDS cart



ALLTRAX XCT-48300-DCS 300 AMPS EZGO DCS 95-99
$398.00

Zincode

Thank you for your reply to my spot on comment. After carefully rereading my post I am going to stand behind all my statements. I only posted on my experience with this cart. And I know because I have kept it running for ten years now. This cart is used weekly in a table rental business. Business has operated successfully for 15 years now. Currently operates 4 ezgo golf carts. My entire post is about MY experience with this cart. I also own a 36v series cart, 48v PDS and a 48v 8 battery MPT1000. I don't modify my carts as they are used in a business that I require reliable usage and easy availability to replacement parts and knowledge of existing systems. I have no problem with the aftermarket other than access to replacement parts and knowledge of there systems. I have found alot more factory parts available from local dealers and online than aftermarket suppliers. Matter of fact there is not a local dealer of Alltrax controllers in the Tampa Bay area. I have even considered possibly becoming a dealer of Alltrax as I understand they have easier to access software by the end user and built in safety systems to protect the actual circuits of the processor. This original poster is brand new to the world of golf carts. Yes there is very good support here and on Facebook but does a new guy want to jump into modifying and custom world before becoming knowledgeable on the original workings. He seeking advise about his current situation. I was giving him good examples of what to expect on a cart this old with a system as old as the one on his cart. I was no way bashing DCS as I continue to operate one just so I gain knowledge on that platform because it was the predecessor to the PDS system.

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iainlbc

Title and registration say EZGO 2000 , Model "GOLF CART"

I checked everywhere on the cart (frame up and down underneath both driver and pass, all over battery area, underneath rear near motor, pass/driver side glove boxes/etc.) I can unfortunately see where the S/N plate was ripped off

I also can't find the VIN anywhere that is on the registration, so will probably have to get a DMV inspection to get a new plate or however that works

I bought it from a fireman who seems like an overall good guy, but not sure who/where he got it from 2 yrs prior.

Looks like it is a DCS based on the diagram posted below, thanks for your help.

iainlbc

Thanks Sir,

Will look into a DC Converter and a new digital meter from cartsunlimited.

Appreciate the help identifying the drive system! I'm glad there is consensus achieved on the drive system in use.

I found a really good post on an upgrade path for a DCS 36V EZGO and will study this as my starting point for determining cost and level of effort to increase speed/torque:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...questions.html

iainlbc

Thank you for your input. It is unfortunate to hear. I kind of like the idea of having it as a long term project as you hav, and to use it as an opportunity to learn/improve my 'handiness'. Eventually have a 65' porsche that needs a frame up restore, so possibly this is a good warm up to that to learn some core concepts and skills.

I think I will continue to start with small not huge investment improvements (cabling, F/R, DC converter, etc.)

Thanks again,
iain

kgsc

Okay, before you do anything more. Flip the Run/Tow switch to Tow, disconnect the pack negative wires and pull the controller cover. You may have an early PDS cart so pull the cover and post a picture of what you see first. Also check the driver's side of the motor at the end to see if there is a grey wire coming out it. If yes it is definitely a PDS.. . One more place to look for a serial number is on top of the rear frame rail right next to the right rear tire. Ezgo engraved quite a few of them there. It might take a mirror to see it..

Edit.. removed my comments about the 12V stuff. Yours has some sort of box on the floor on the drivers side that is connected to the rear center battery neg post and drivers side front battery plus. That is probably your 12 volt feed.