Upgrading F&R... Calling ScottyB

DFW Rusty

So my golf cart already has the "HD" F&R switch. However, it has failed and I need to order a replacement today. The question is do I go back with the "HD" f&R or do I go with the DC182-48 or 202 kit.

If I go with the DC182 or 202 kit, what un-foreseen items will I have to replace or get longer of, to make this work? If I need to order anything extra I would rather order it up-front versus wait until I start the install to realize I need a longer ……. or a new ……....

For those who are not sure what the DC182-48 is, here is a link, this is not your normal HD f&r.

https://www.cartsunlimited.net/rever...ontactors.html



Oh ya- cart specs. 01, series, sr48500 alltrax, 2ga wires, HD solenoid, HD f&r (toast), lift, tires, backseat, converted to 48v less than a month ago.

BGW

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Sir Nuke

well for starters, I would be wondering what is causing your HD F&R's for fail....that is if they are Scotty's HD F&R's.....as I have been running mine for right at 5 1/2 years and I use my cart a LOT.

DFW Rusty

My original was the factor oem f&r and was very corroded. The one that just went out, I replaced back in November and bought it at the local golf cart shop. It was their HD f&r, which is way beefier than the oem I took out.

I get into mud from time to time and when I do I back up and go forward a lot to try and get out of the mud. I actually got stuck 2 weekends ago and after I got it out I noticed that it wouldn't hardly go into reverse. I checked it and if I banged on the f&r it would start buzzing, then the forward started not working consistently, sometimes I would have to shift it a couple times to get it to make contact.

It still drives, but I have to shift several times to get to move.

orangeman6

I’ve read multiple times that most of the “HD” f/r’s aren’t really heavy duty. I’ve never read of anyone having a problem with one they got from Scotty. That being said, I’d still get the contactor instead. It’s more robust, doesn’t ever need adjustment, and it’s a lot easier to use. You push a rocker switch, as opposed to moving that lever. I guarantee your wife will like it better.

As far as installation goes, it’s pretty straight forward. With everything else you’ve done to your cart, it’ll be easy for you. I could send you the install sheet from Scotty if you want to see that before you commit. I ended up having to modify my install a bit, after the fact, so I could have the reverse buzzer activate as soon as you selected r. I’d have to look at the sheet again to remind myself how I originally had it, but it wasn’t activating the buzzer until the solenoid engaged. Either way, it’s an easy job and you’ll love it.

DFW Rusty

I went ahead and ordered the DC182-48. Can't wait to get this on my cart.

orangeman6

Good move.

Sir Nuke

RUSTY, considering the "DUTY" you put your cart thought.....going with the contactor set-up is the way to go....

and I have to tell you.....if it were me, I would seriously consider putting a solid pan underneath to keep a lot of the nasties out.

scottyb

Hi Rusty, had you contacted me directly I would have suggested the SW202. It is 2 times heavier duty than the DC182. And if you are burning up F&Rs you need the heaviest duty solution available.
Email me at my website if you have any questions about getting your order upgraded.

orangeman6

I didn’t even catch that you went with the 182. I’d definitely take Scotty up on the upgrade.

Sir Nuke

X2......I ALWAYS go for the beefier setup....its ok to have more than you need, but if you end up needing it and don't have it....then you car having to buy new stuff again. Its the nature of the business I am in....its always better to have it over engineered.