2008 rxv forwards & reverse at same time

gobgolfcarts

Ok guys i have an 08 ezgo rxv. Cart came in with a navitas controller and was giving a code that the cart was in f&r at the same time. Cart ran for a little while and would go real slow and jerky. It would stop very abruptly w/o pushing brake. The controller then went out. We got a new one in and it is acting the same way. I ended up putting an oem danaher controller in it that i know for sure works fine. Cart is still doing the same. Ive replaced motor brake, bearing encoder, all brake and throttle switches. F&r switch numerous times, resistor. Im not very familiar with rxv's ive worked on a few. Any ideas of what could be going on. The f&r code from the navitas controller is what has me for a loop.

BGW

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cgtech

Corrosion in the harness, very typical on those.

Imapled

It would be helpful if you posted a screen capture of the diagnosis tab in the Navitas Bluetooth app and your settings as well.

For example this is the setup for an RXV I did. (Screenshots of the Navitas app.) You can compare your settings to the ones in the screenshots.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1638130

I had a bad brake throttle/sensor/thingy (?) and it was firing way too many volts and I got the same error code. When I opened up the pedal box and took it off it was rusted on. The thing was a mess. It was sending way too many volts like the brake was pressed.

The min voltage for brake is 1. If on the diagnosis screen your brake is over 1 (mine in the screen shot is 0.43 - it is the new one) and the throttle voltage is over 1 you will get that error code.

If you have the dealer app you could try and move the voltage min up to what it is reporting in the diagnosis screen but, if you are getting more than 1 volt the sensors are probably toasted and should be replaced.

I have the "dealer" app so you may not be able to change some of the stuff you see in the "settings" screenshots.

Cheers,
Impaled

cgtech

The both of those sensors range is "0-5v" but it never ever runs exactly Zero to five. The "at rest voltage" is typically 0.47v, and the top end is typically about 4.78v. the controller knows & expects these ranges (it Automatically takes these "loose" values into consideration for "is it working properly", just to see if the sensor is within a "reasonable range"). Most controllers would fault if "zero throttle" were actually 0.0v, it would wonder if a sensor were connected at all, and any reading above 5v should be considered a fault (since it's input should be about 5v) . The controller has some "standards that must be met". If im repeating, sorry.

cgtech

I have heard (from people I "might have laughed hysterically at") that a Danaher put 15v input to the hall-effect sensors for the throttle & brake sensors. Knowing the output was a "0-5v" signal. There is some possible probabilities to that (the hall effect sensor might have been compatible with that input voltage, but why would they).

cgtech

Also, as far as I know, there isn't a PC computer "app" for Danaher controllers, but I could be wrong. I think it's just the handheld programmer. Unless someone has the "full setup" that I haven't seen. That's why I love the 2012.5 & newer "Curtis" RXVs, we can do almost anything with them (excluding brand new "limited" 7.0 software for "mid 2019”). Yep, "bummer" software has arrived. (And it means I will have to fulfill my promise soon, for all 2012.5-2019 "pre 7.0 software" owners)

Phil_Billy

I'm with you on the RXV with a Curtis controller. sure makes diagnostics and repairs much easier. inputs and outputs in real time.